Bikepacking The Orkneys. Talk to me.

[Artie Fufkin]

Af’noon all.
Thinking of doing my annual summer solstice jaunt to The Orkney Islands and could do with some help/ advice/ pointing in the right direction etc.
We will be coming from Leeds area and intend to drive to Scrabster, dump the car and get ferry to Stromness with bikes and kit.
Would like some advice about terrain, eating, drinking, opening times of shops, pubs etc. Also acceptance of wild camping. Midge warnings and advice welcome too! Planning on going for the week so may need b&b or campsite one day or so for use of facilities.
All help and advice greatly appreciated in advance and thanks very much.
Adam.

[woodsmith]

I had about 10 days up there in late august 2021and while I enjoyed it I far preferred the outer Hebrides. You'd be fine with just a road bike rather than an MTB /bikepacking bike as there is very little off road riding as far as I can tell. Most of the isalands with exception of Hoy are fairly flat but what it lacks in gradients it can make up for in headwinds. As most of the routes are either out and back or circular this isn't as much of a problem as it could be. The scenery is subtle rather than dramatic, (again wit the exception of Hoy). If neolithic remains are your thing then you'll have a ball. Check on covid closures. Many of the chambered tombs were closed when I was there but all the stone circles and brochs were open. I only did the Mainland and the islands joined by the Churchill barriers plus Hoy and Rousay. The islands are intensivley cultivated so there isnt a lot of wild camping as in the highlands but i never had a problem finding a spot at the end of a road, behind the beach etc.
Always seemed too windy for midges. Good campsite at the southend of stromness. If going to any of the islands its worth stocking up on food in Kirkwall or Stromness. Didn't eat out or visit pubs as its beyond my budget. There wasn't even a chippy in Stromness . But it is a lovely town and reminded me of a small version of Falmouth. The only real bit of off roading I found was the postmans path on Hoy over to Rackwick Bay fro wher you could probably ride out to see the Old Man of Hoy.

[fatbikephil]

If you've a fatbike they are ace, well specifically Sanday and Westray. If you are on a normal MTB then there are a few routes behind the dunes in Sanday a lovely coastal path on Westray from the lighthouse at the northernmost point down to Bis Geos. Westray is a good spot as it's main 'town', Pierwall has a nice pub / hotel, a well stocked shop and a hostel / campsite nearby. You can camp behind the beach. As well as the path on Hoy mentioned by woodsmith, there is a rather drastic piece of singletrack from St. Johns Head to the Old Man, just watch out for the 1000ft cliff.... The coast path on Hoy can be followed from Rackwick bay south to link up to the road at the southern end. The roads are all pretty quiet and apart from the main one between Stromness and Kirkwall all pretty narrow.

Coastal bivvies are the thing but its quite breezy so be sure of you're shelter. There is a bothy at Rackwick bay on Hoy with plenty camping spots round about

[yourguitarhero]

+1 on Rackwick Bay on Hoy, great place to camp. There is a bothy though it can be full, but lots of camping in the fields around it.
Very peaceful and fun to watch the Skua birds fishing.

Can be windy though - watched someone with an Alpkit tent pack up and leave as it was collapsing (though that may be a design issue with them as I've seen it on another, and this lady had pitched correctly - our tents were fine).

Dunno about doing a week there though, might be worth stopping somewhere in Sutherland for a couple of days on the way up and cycling/camping there.