Setting up tubeless?

[Ray Young]

Right then, just ordered some Hope Pro2 Evo/Stans Crest 29er wheels and I want to set them up tubeless. Do I need UST specific tyres or will any folding tyre do? Apart from sealant what else do I need? Any tips on setting them up would also be appreciated. Thanks.

[mountainbaker]

Some non-UST specific tyres will work, though I've had little luck with any, the bead tends to be weaker, so doesn't lock so well to the rim.

Watch some of the video on youtube about setting it up, using soapy water etc. Having access to an air compressor makes the whole process a lot easier. It's all a bit of a faff, but it's worth it IMO, as I've had zero punctures in 18 months on the same front tyre and the rear has been replaced because it wore out! It has many many holes in it, but never lost pressure.

I run Conti Mountain Kings, great tyres.

[FLV]

Your rims will work with any tubeless ready tyres, basically a non ust bead but sealant compatible.

Anything tubeless ready will work, All specialized 2bliss tyres work and are very good value, most folding maxxis work (ardent, ikon, beaver etc), some maxxis wired work but are generally harder to inflate. Dunno much about schwalbe except that the tuess ready ones work easy enough.

Pukka ust tyres tend to be harder to get on but work fine.

Crest rims need the Stan's yellow tape and a tubeless valve. The tape should come with them and hopefully be on there already depending on where you got them from.
Assuming it is, fit the valve nice and tight, I give it a bit of pressure from the outside with my thumb then nip the little clamp ring differ up snug.

Next, put the tyre on one bead making sure it's not sat on the valve head.
Next, wet the bead that's on all the way round the outside with Stan's sealant.
Next, fit the othe side of the tyre 80% and pour in 1 or 2 cups of sealant
Next, rotate the wheel and pop on rest of the tyre, make sure the secnd bead is not on the valve,
Next, wet the second bead round the outside with sealant,
Next, attach your best track pump (I use a topeak joe blow) and pump, fast...

If it's blowing from a certain point try giving the tyre a little pull onto the bead seat at each side and pp like crazy again

Keep pumping untill it snaps into place. It should be there by 40 to 50 psi

Next, put the wheel on its side and spin it like a top
Next, flip it over and repeat
Next, spin both sides again

Leave for an hour or ride round the block a few times,

Reduce / set your desired pressure

Bosh.

[nostoc]

Current Schwalbe can be a real battle getting on and off Stans rims to the point that they would make trailside repairs impractical.

[zigrat]

A pedros ( or similar DH tyre lever can be useful). I also find a stans valve core remover useful along with his sealant injector, when you take the valve core out you can get more air in quicker and with less effort.

Current schwalbe ( ralph's or rockets) are a really tight fit on crests - as are specialized ground control. Maxxis ikon's are ok and bontrager tyres go on pretty good.

If it's your first time tubeless you may find that your tyre choice changes because of the decreased rolling resistance and greater grip - my current preference for glasgow and the west highlands is a rocket ron 2.25 front and an ikon exo 2.2 rear. This is working out as a really fast but dependable set up with a bit more cornering bite thana racing ralph.

[FLV]

for what its worth, I've never needed a DH tyre lever or valve core tool in 5 years of tubless tyre obsession

deffo depends on they though I expect. I've been a user of maxxis, spesh and a few smaller brands for ages.

I had a minor failure last week but upon inspection at home, there was a small tear in the sidewall

[Lmorgan87]

Apologies if this is repeated info. If your struggling to get a seal using a track pump try using a co2 canister. I also found that lying my wheel flat on the ground (axle touching the floor) after my tubeless set up helped get the sealant into all the nooks and crannies in between the tyre bead and the rim. Then again I did go for a very ghetto tubeless setup so I wouldn't imagine that you'd have too many troubles with dedicated rims and tyres.

[Ray Young]

Thanks for all the info guys, looking forward to this tubeless lark .

[johnnystorm]

Schwalbes from a couple of years ago I found a pain but recent Nobby Nics folding ORC are probably the easiest tyres I've fitted tubeless to crests.

Tubeless fit of "non-specific tyres" I've found easy:

Maxxis Ikon-folding
Maxxis Beaver-folding
Maxxis Igniter
Schwalbes Nobby Nic-folding
Continental Race King-wire
Bontrager 29-1

As an aside I'd avoid the fancy versions of the Ikon & Beaver as they have proven very fragile.

[jameso]

I've found I can avoid using gas or compressors by gripping-pinching and working the bead out of the central channel with my fingertips, easing it up onto the larger-dia section as far round each side as I can, usually 180-200 ish degrees. There's then less air gap left and more likelihood of the air-flow of a pump seating the tyre. With this technique and the right tyres on Stans or Velocity rims I can reliably seat tyres trail-side with a good mini-pump, helps if they're fairly clear of dried gunk tho.

Non-ust tyre recommendations - Spesh 2bliss are really easy to fit and good tyres too, Maxxis EXO work well and Geax Saguarros are great all-round fast tyres, maybe the easiest non-TLR to use tubeless ime. Schwalbes have generally been poor performers for me (inc their USTs somehow, apart from Big Apple wired tyres.. odd - but this was around a couple of yrs ago as johhnystorm's mentioned), Contis are good if you get the ones intended for tubeless - never had much luck / ease of use with std folding Contis.

[Brothersmith]

Only started with this tubless marlaky in the spring so still gaining experience

Contis are good if you get the ones intended for tubeless - never had much luck / ease of use with std folding Contis.

Jamso, I'm using a x-king 2.4 standard folding tyre on the rear, went on and blew up fine. I may have just been lucky.

or what its worth, I've never needed a DH tyre lever or valve core tool in 5 years of tubless tyre obsession

My preferred method is now to seat tyre first and then add the sealant so the injector makes life easier (plus I made it so it cost me nought). This makes sure you know the tyre will seat and it also means if I cant get it on with track pump I can bob down LBS to use their compressor with out wasting sealant. Having said that though the only tyre to date I couldn't shift with pump or CO2 has been a Knard!

I also found that spraying some soap water round the tyre bead just before inflation reduces friction and makes it easier to blow onto the rim.

[Charliecres]

I've found a ghetto inflator made from a 2l pop bottle and some valves and flexi tube is really useful for awkward to seal tyres. Search on Singletrackworld forum for instructions.

I can also recommend On-One tyres (Smorgasbord and Chunky Monkey) - mega cheap, good GDP and easy to inflate.

[slarge]

Yes, ghetto tyre inflator from a coke bottle has saved me ££££ in CO2 canisters. I am scared to go over 60psi in the coke bottle though - it looks a bit fragile!

[Zippy]

Yes, ghetto tyre inflator from a coke bottle has saved me ££££ in CO2 canisters. I am scared to go over 60psi in the coke bottle though - it looks a bit fragile!

I've done 160 psi out of a cider bottle and it was my makeshift valve that went kaboom by that stage

[pushbikemike]

Yes, ghetto tyre inflator from a coke bottle has saved me ££££ in CO2 canisters. I am scared to go over 60psi in the coke bottle though - it looks a bit fragile!

Same for me. I wrapped some duct tape around mine and put the bottle inside a welly boot. Make me feel better. The other half thinks I'm mental.