As there are some good deals around at present on Rohloff hubs thought I would price one up for my Krampus. It would be great if there was just a kit list for a bike. I tried their hub finder but couldn't make it work. I think I can identify the hub I need but its all the other stuff that is puzzling me.
Can I use my disc or do I need the Rohloff disc?
Can the wheel builder use any suitable spoke or do I need Rohloff spokes?
Does the Rohloff come with a cog or do I need to order one?
Anyone know anyone in EX postcode area that has experience of setting up a speed hub?
Parts that I have identified:
Hub
OEM2
Tug Nut
Spokes
Disc?
Cables and Shifter
Cog?
Chain Ring?
Chain?
Monkey Bone?
Any spacers needed to adjust alignment of chain?
I know there is a lot of accounts of fitting a Rohloff out on the interweb but it’s the boring technical information I am looking for. Any advice based on experience with Krampus gratefully received.
Thanks
Lost in Rohloff part numbers
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Lost in Rohloff part numbers
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VeganGraham
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Re: Lost in Rohloff part numbers
Hubs are either hollow axle for QR or longer solid axle for nuts.
If you're buying second hand, make sure it's a disc brake version. Non-disc brake ones go cheaper, but I think it was about £150 to convert when I last looked.
The disc is a unique 4 bolt fixing. Hope and others make them in 160, 180 & 200mm. Never seen a 140mm.
I'd recommend a tug nut with horizontal dropouts, but then, I'd also recommend not using horizontal dropouts in the first place. Sliding dropouts or an EBB would be a lot better. The OEM axle plate locates on the Speedbone, which is mounted via the caliper bolts. As you move the wheel to adjust the chain, the OEM plate will move with it, while the Speedbone stays were it is. This will probably affect the engagement of the two parts. It would probably be best to set the wheel in the best position, then use a tensioner.
Any make of spoke will do, there's nothing special about the spoke flanges, apart from being a bigger diameter.
Rohloff cables are useless. The liner soon works it's way out and wraps itself around the inside of the shifter jamming everything solid. Any gear cable will do. Middleburn oilers help with two full length runs. Some people recommend gear inners with brake outers to reduce friction. I've tried it and it seems to work.
Sprocket is unique to Rohloff. 15,16 & 17 are reversible, 13 is not. I generally run 32x13 or 34x13 for better ground clearance.
Chainring and chain are same as single speed.
Sprocket can not be adjusted, you just screw it fully on. Needs a special tool to remove it.
Chain alignment should be right with standard BB spacers, but can be fine tuned with thinner spacers.
People who use the Monkey Bone seem to prefer it. The standard Speedbone works fine.
If you're buying second hand, make sure it's a disc brake version. Non-disc brake ones go cheaper, but I think it was about £150 to convert when I last looked.
The disc is a unique 4 bolt fixing. Hope and others make them in 160, 180 & 200mm. Never seen a 140mm.
I'd recommend a tug nut with horizontal dropouts, but then, I'd also recommend not using horizontal dropouts in the first place. Sliding dropouts or an EBB would be a lot better. The OEM axle plate locates on the Speedbone, which is mounted via the caliper bolts. As you move the wheel to adjust the chain, the OEM plate will move with it, while the Speedbone stays were it is. This will probably affect the engagement of the two parts. It would probably be best to set the wheel in the best position, then use a tensioner.
Any make of spoke will do, there's nothing special about the spoke flanges, apart from being a bigger diameter.
Rohloff cables are useless. The liner soon works it's way out and wraps itself around the inside of the shifter jamming everything solid. Any gear cable will do. Middleburn oilers help with two full length runs. Some people recommend gear inners with brake outers to reduce friction. I've tried it and it seems to work.
Sprocket is unique to Rohloff. 15,16 & 17 are reversible, 13 is not. I generally run 32x13 or 34x13 for better ground clearance.
Chainring and chain are same as single speed.
Sprocket can not be adjusted, you just screw it fully on. Needs a special tool to remove it.
Chain alignment should be right with standard BB spacers, but can be fine tuned with thinner spacers.
People who use the Monkey Bone seem to prefer it. The standard Speedbone works fine.
Worcestershire's fastest veteran vegan mountain bike endurance racer with a beard.
Re: Lost in Rohloff part numbers
Mariner there is one for sale down your way on ebay a bit overpriced esp considering it has a sheared bolt in the OEM axle plate. i got one recently for under 500 quid
Vegangraham i thought the speedbone was for post mount brakes and the monkeybone for IS mount?
Vegangraham i thought the speedbone was for post mount brakes and the monkeybone for IS mount?
Re: Lost in Rohloff part numbers
Does anyone know of any good deals on Rohloffs?
The best I've seen is £800 on ebay from Germany.
The best I've seen is £800 on ebay from Germany.
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Re: Lost in Rohloff part numbers
VeganGraham
Thanks for the information.
Will go for the solid axel as that also gives a degree of security over QR.
I hope to use existing 180mm Avid disc if fixing pcd will fit.
Interesting comments on the selector cable and the ‘oilers’. Will spec this for the installation rather than arrive at it by trial and error. Once you know what question to ask its surprising how often cable problems crop up on forums.
Any thoughts on the external gear selector orientation? I saw a comment on one installation that had the selector at about 5 o’clock position to ‘stop water sitting in the adjusters’. Sounds a bit dubious to me. If it was a problem then a boot or shroud would be better or just a dob of grease. I would assume a straight run in for the cables at 6 o’clock position is best.
Thanks again.
Mpolo
Thanks for the heads up on the Rohloff. Broken stud is not a problem but the body is red. Pound/Euro is working in my favour at present so I can buy new for not too much more with black body.
Richpips
Have a look at Triton and Evans. They both appear to have deals at present. Then there is always price matching at your LBS if they will do it. I have not priced up with Bike24 yet but have always found them competitive and quick delivery from Germany.
Thanks for the information.
Will go for the solid axel as that also gives a degree of security over QR.
I hope to use existing 180mm Avid disc if fixing pcd will fit.
Interesting comments on the selector cable and the ‘oilers’. Will spec this for the installation rather than arrive at it by trial and error. Once you know what question to ask its surprising how often cable problems crop up on forums.
Any thoughts on the external gear selector orientation? I saw a comment on one installation that had the selector at about 5 o’clock position to ‘stop water sitting in the adjusters’. Sounds a bit dubious to me. If it was a problem then a boot or shroud would be better or just a dob of grease. I would assume a straight run in for the cables at 6 o’clock position is best.
Thanks again.
Mpolo
Thanks for the heads up on the Rohloff. Broken stud is not a problem but the body is red. Pound/Euro is working in my favour at present so I can buy new for not too much more with black body.
Richpips
Have a look at Triton and Evans. They both appear to have deals at present. Then there is always price matching at your LBS if they will do it. I have not priced up with Bike24 yet but have always found them competitive and quick delivery from Germany.
Zazen - nothing happens next this is it.
-
VeganGraham
- Posts: 104
- Joined: Thu Sep 11, 2014 12:10 pm
- Location: The sun dappled leafy glades of Worcestershire
- Contact:
Re: Lost in Rohloff part numbers
Good point about the Monkeybone/Speedbone.
The standard Speedbone fits on the outside of the frame with longer bolts going through both it and the frame in to either an IS caliper or an IS to post adapter.
The Monkeybone fits on the inside of the frame and is an IS to post adapter itself, so will only work with post mount brakes.
Your existing Avid disc won't fit. It's 4 bolts on a different PCD,
Go with whatever gives the best cable run. The clickbox is poorly sealed, so water will get in anyway. I just use the Middleburn oilers to keep flushing it out.
My Qoroz with EBB, OEM axle plate and clickbox at 6 o'clock with cables along chainstay. I bought the wheel second hand. I wouldn't choose aero spokes with alloy nipples for a mountain bike myself.
Tandem with tensioner, OEM axle plate and clickbox at 4 o'clock with cables along seatstay.
The standard Speedbone fits on the outside of the frame with longer bolts going through both it and the frame in to either an IS caliper or an IS to post adapter.
The Monkeybone fits on the inside of the frame and is an IS to post adapter itself, so will only work with post mount brakes.
Your existing Avid disc won't fit. It's 4 bolts on a different PCD,
Go with whatever gives the best cable run. The clickbox is poorly sealed, so water will get in anyway. I just use the Middleburn oilers to keep flushing it out.
My Qoroz with EBB, OEM axle plate and clickbox at 6 o'clock with cables along chainstay. I bought the wheel second hand. I wouldn't choose aero spokes with alloy nipples for a mountain bike myself.
Tandem with tensioner, OEM axle plate and clickbox at 4 o'clock with cables along seatstay.
Worcestershire's fastest veteran vegan mountain bike endurance racer with a beard.