This popped up on YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZXzXH4gBfs about the "revolution" that NW chainrings enabled.

As he admits, his testing isn't "scientific" and has a small sample size regarding runs, etc., but it's interesting nonetheless. One point he doesn't mention is that standard chainrings on 2x & 3x systems such as Shimano's Hyperglide have pins and ramps to facilitate the chain moving from one ring to another so as soon as the chain begins to be deflected those features are going to pull the chain off.

I did one event using a standard chainring (my NW chainring had developed serious chain suck ) and the chain came off repeatedly until I engaged the clutch. It still wasn't perfect as it dropped a couple of times but it was much better than without. Riding those same trails with a NW I can't remember ever dropping the chain.

I've found using a NW ring without a clutch mech works fine, no issues with chain dropping. Also used a normal ring (full profile teeth, no ramps or pins) with a clutch mech and it needed a chain guide

Funnily enough when I ran a triple, the chain regularly dropped of the granny ring. You always span the pedals like crazy anyway, and then mashed the chain into the middle ring trying to get it back on....

Certainly don't drop chains now but had one bike, forget which one, that needed a chain guide with narrow wide

They do work well though

I'm pretty sure that I've not engaged the clutch on my derailleur for several years, the NW works well enough.

Some of the newer mechs ( 12 speed xtr) the non clutch mode is very floppy and really exists for wheel removal. ( tend to have sram* so no on off option)

* not loyalty it just seems to be on the bikes I buy.

Just to agree with those above, I usually ride a NW front ring with clutch mech off.

I started not using the clutch routinely when the clutch on an XT rear mech wore to the point it was no longer functional. Even when completely knackered I had no chain drop. Have had no problems with chain drop and I must say I find gear changes smoother/quieter without the clutch. Chain bounce is obviously much worse without the clutch.

This observation is on rigid gravel bikes ridden on some rocky tracks along the coast in Dorset ie. the bikes get knocked about quite a bit.

Hot tip for ssp mtb riders:
If you use a n/w ring, I suggest to use a 11 spd chain and a n/w cog.

I'm writing this 'cause I had issues with dropping chains and surprisingly lots of wear running n/w rings, wide ssp cogs (in my case Surly) and any 8 or 9 spd chain I could find (whichever would work with the wide cog). I used to ride such setups on my hardtail trail bike and every day/offroad touring bike.
No matter how much I tensioned the chain on the trail bike, I regularly dropped the chain. On the everyday/touring bike the riding seemingly wasn't rough enough to drop chains, but here I saw premature wear.

Issues completely solved by going full n/w and 11spd chains

Been running n/w rings for about a decade on my (SRAM mechs) geared bikes and even here, rarely dropped a chain - the riding had to be really rough. Then Eagle came and since then I only sometimes drop chains with the full Eagle drive train when I have a near crash or crash.

whitestone wrote: ↑Fri Mar 01, 2024 5:42 pm I'm pretty sure that I've not engaged the clutch on my derailleur for several years, the NW works well enough.

Me either

Alpinum wrote: ↑Fri Mar 01, 2024 7:42 pm Hot tip for ssp mtb riders:
If you use a n/w ring, I suggest to use a 11 spd chain and a n/w cog.

I'm going to try this. I currently run a NW chainring, narrow ss chain and a Surley cog and I have a huge wear rate. I had so much wear in the chain of an all new set-up in under 150 miles that the chain was so slack I had a dropped chain sprinting for a traffic light, less than ideal in the morning traffic

And recommendations for the NW cog? I think I've only seen Absolute Black ones.

sean_iow wrote: ↑Fri Mar 01, 2024 11:33 pm I had so much wear in the chain of an all new set-up in under 150 miles that the chain was so slack I had a dropped chain sprinting for a traffic light, less than ideal in the morning traffic

In my case the issues came after about 500 km.

On my ssp bikes I run RaceFace/Easton and Absolute Black rings, both on RaceFace cranks. The Absolute Black is fairly new, so can't really compare wear - or tell any difference whatsoever.
They both do their job. I'd probably simply look at the price and colour

Sean, I'm swearing by Superstar rings - got one on the Straggler (surly cog and connex 8 speed chain) and it's lasted for ages - 2 years and a good chunk of miles in all weather (2 chains though). I also use a 26T one on the fatty and it too seems to be lasting for yonks. £30