Well.as title had three ( all new sram ones ) and had no more than 500 miles out them and the last one was about 4 rides/ few hundred miles. The bearing seize / become very hard to turn.
Is there a better BB ( hope are very spendy) I can try or should I just get another crank size?
It's standard threaded if that matters and a boost crank( I think)
Need the bike for BB200 and though I have another dub bb indont trust it ( at least theynwere only £15 each.

If it's a standard threaded BB shell and you have a standard hollowtech crankset then just get a HT2 compatible BB which are only a tenner or so.

I've not had a decent SRAM BB, even on my winter road bike it only lasted about 1500km. Complete garbage!

I've generally found Sram BB's to be short lived as well. The last one I had, I noticed the destructions actually suggested prising the seals off and pushing more grease into them. The DUB set up seems pretty good so if Hope do one I'd be tempted to get one as at least the bearings can be changed.

I think (by my friend's experience of them) that Dub are just rubbish, sorry. You'll need new cranks to get away from them.

The longest lasting BB I've ever had came on my Planet X London Road, it's done 3500 road miles and 1500 mixed miles when I put gravel tyres on it, that's over 7 years and still going strong, it's never been cared for, put away wet and muddy and then just ridden again..... it's the lowest spec SRAM gxp one

Despite my loyalty to Hope they need 2 or 3 sets of bearings a year and the cups need replacing every couple of years as the faces that form the groove for the seal wears away.

I have a Dub BB on my Broken Rd that must have done 7000 miles, same on Tom's bike.

Though I have never had issues with bottom bracket bearings. I've a cheap ISIS BB that must have done 6000 miles.

Lazarus wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2023 7:53 pm Well.as title had three ( all new sram ones ) and had no more than 500 miles out them and the last one was about 4 rides/ few hundred miles. The bearing seize / become very hard to turn.
[...]

Could it be the frame? Or installation? Not a fan of DUB, but a distance worth of a Highlandtrail seems very, very weak. Something must be wrong.

I've had issues with DT freewheels when I changed frame (Ibis Ripley V3) couple of years ago. After two completely buggered freewheels (pulverised bearing balls) after only couple of months riding, I started to make sure I don't overtighten the rear axle. Issue solved. Couldn't really explain it, since I never had this issue before, despite surely overtightening the rear axles on other frames on a regular basis.

My full-sus is DUB. Had heard a lot of bad things about them, but the one that came (uses, I know not how much) in it has been good for 3 years (don't know how many miles). It's on the way out, and with this in mind, I bought some SLX cranks that were on offer, but then realised I might have overreacted and have ordered a standard DUB BB to see how long a new one lasts.

All the same frame* but it was a brand new alpkit broken road so doubt it
Instalation well they did one ( failed non drive ) and i have done the rest amd last was drive side . Not checked this one. Its possible i am messing up but doubt it given I do all my repairs and am not that ham fisted generally. Pretty poor mileage though hence my doubts

* how would I check frame ? Full set of bike tools and decent general tools ? That said bb threads on fine and cranks go in easily enough so seems true

My Spearfish is DUB. SRAM original was pretty short lived, but replaced with Nukeproof and it lasted a couple of years. Just replaced, though only one side was gone really.
Heavily reduced if you don't mind green: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/p/n ... d+%7C+73mm

I've had the exact same experience with Dub - went through three in no time at all. Found them tricky to get hold of at the time too. Eventually binned the crankset and bought Hollowtech 2, no bother since.

Lazarus wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2023 9:34 pm * how would I check frame ? Full set of bike tools and decent general tools ? That said bb threads on fine and cranks go in easily enough so seems true

Flat surface (ideally a jig) and angle protractor.
Find out if the face of the BB tube is cut properly on both sides with angle protractor. Once that is clear, lay it flat, BB tube flat on table, and check the angle of the BB to the frame. If it's twisted, bring it back.
Insert a BB and check for alignment via the spindle interface. Both interfaces need to be planar and again at the right angle with the frame.
If in doubt, cut new threads.

Keep in mind that paint and stickers will influence your measurements. A flat vertical surface will be better to work on, than a horizontal surface.

Cheers and ti so stickerless and no paint

Leaning towards dub just being rubbish though

fatbikephil wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2023 8:17 pm I've generally found Sram BB's to be short lived as well. The last one I had, I noticed the destructions actually suggested prising the seals off and pushing more grease into them. The DUB set up seems pretty good so if Hope do one I'd be tempted to get one as at least the bearings can be changed.

I thought you could use a standard hope bb and a pair of adaptor thingies.

I've had the same experience with DUB BBs as well. I have one in my Orbea Rallon and although I don't ride it very often and even less in rain and mud conditions the original failed very quickly. I went with another DUB BB as they are relatively cheap but I know I should have bitten the bullet and forked out for a Hope or similar. My (DUB) cranks are carbon so I'm loathed to swap for anything else unless they break which ties me into the DUB ecosystem.

fatbikerbill wrote: ↑Mon Oct 09, 2023 4:03 pm

fatbikephil wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2023 8:17 pm I've generally found Sram BB's to be short lived as well. The last one I had, I noticed the destructions actually suggested prising the seals off and pushing more grease into them. The DUB set up seems pretty good so if Hope do one I'd be tempted to get one as at least the bearings can be changed.

I thought you could use a standard hope bb and a pair of adaptor thingies.

Right enough - similar to the ones I've got to use SRAM gxp granks.

You can buy an insert for gpx cranks sonyou can run a standard 24 mm bb working fine for me( road bike) at about 750 miles in
It was cheap like a tenner for 3 ( you can buy them as a single)

I have DUB on my Surly Wednesday, to be honest, I was not fussed and I am whipping them out to fit a set of Hope cranks in instead, it is another format that could be hit and or miss to find part for if needed. Friends who have used them have not noticed anything wonderful from the unit's

The trouble with dub (same issue with 30mm spindle cranks like raceface and praxis etc) is that to squeeze in the oversize spindle, something has to give… the ‘solution’ is tiny little ball bearings, takes naff all grit and muck to make em feel cruddy, wear the race and or seize.