bit of a problem to fix, not a big problem,but needs sorting.

recently replaced my 135mm rohloff hub with a shimano xt 135mm hub. the fargo spacing with the altenator plates is 135mm.
the new wheel fits nicely into the frame BUT when i fasten the qr up the wheel doesnt roll freely.

any idea's/fixes greatly appreciated.

Slightly too tight cones? If it's a cup & cone XT, then you want to adjust them with a tiny bit of play until the QR does up and it becomes perfect...

Or is the HG lockring rubbing on the dropout slightly?

cheers Paul. i will have a look at those 2 options.

and the mechs arrived too mate........ cheers.

Had this with my El Mariachi, was with bolt thru wheels with 135mm QR adapters. Turns out the adapters were on the wrong sides Took me ages to work out, looked almost identical too! Swapped them over and added a little grease to the seals and the wheels spun

Does the wheel spin freely with the bike upside down and the QR not clamped shut?

Does the wheel spin freely with the bike upside down and the QR not clamped shut?

yes mate, it spins perfectly. then when qr is done up it dont spin freely.

ton wrote: ↑Fri Jan 20, 2023 10:09 pm

Does the wheel spin freely with the bike upside down and the QR not clamped shut?

yes mate, it spins perfectly. then when qr is done up it dont spin freely.

Ton... to check if your bearings are too tight, immobilise one side of the hub with your fingers and push it to the opposite end. Then grab that other side of the axle and try and wiggle it up and down (towards the rim edges). In cup/cone bearing hubs pf which Shimano are, there should be the tiniest bit of play that you can feel.

If that play isn't there, then as Paul said - it'll be your culprit. When you clamp the hub down is when this little play is removed. Sorry if you already know most of this btw... if you wanna borrow some cone spanners then you're welcome. But there's a chance that they might have changed the way you tighten em (like Dura Ace use a hex key and a bit of other different methodology) depending on model year (maybe, but not likely).

Is the lockring rubbing against the dropout? I've seen this happen just due to manufacturing tolerances and I'm not too sure how the Alternator dropouts are set up for standard QR axles.

I've also seen a cassette installed with a spacer when it shouldn't have been and the lockring just being able to tighten up but that pushing it out to where it shouldn't be.

If it is cone adjustment I made the tool in this article that is really good. It lets you tension the axle and adjust the cone at the same time

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html

I'm with Scotroutes on this one - there isn't a spacer behind the cassette that isn't needed? What speed is it and what cassette?

it was the cones. they were proper tightened. backed em off a bit and now seem a load better. cheers all.