Dynamo lights

[kvragu]

I checked out a few pages worth of discussion and couldn't find this topic so here it goes. I want to complete my kona unit build with a dynamo light. The best options seem to be either the klite bikepacker ultra, or exposure revo. The former seems like a much better choice overall, I just have a few questions for those with hands-on experience.

It doesn't seem like there's an on/off switch on either lights. I don't mind keeping the lights on during the day on my road bike (with a B&M setup), but was never unable to turn them off, so maybe I'm missing a scenario where it's disadvantageous. Is it just a simple case of unplugging if need be? That would probably introduce some extra wear and tear, I imagine?

Am I 'locked in' to a particular brand's system if I want to add a rear light or a charging setup? I don't like the klite rear because it's a blinky and it costs £100, can I just plug in a, e.g., B&M light?

Anything I might be missing when considering my choice?

[Bearbonesnorm]

I've had two types of K-lite and a Revo - I still have the K-lites The Revo does look neater but I find the K-lites offer a better beam and also tend to produce more useable light at lower speeds (I assume this is to do with the internal capacitor).

Neither will really limit your choices with regard to rear light or charging - they do all use different connections and there'll always be a requirement for some DIY wiring, although the K-lite does offer plug and play options for both.

Never really considered not having an off switch to be an issue - aside from the 'oi your lights are on' comments.

There should be some K-lite reviews etc over here: https://www.bearbonesbikepacking.co.uk/?s=k-lite

[Joe]

I have the k-lite, incredible light and makes me realise how much I strain my eyes with other lights, really feels like a I can relax my eyes while I ride.

The only issue with it is that it's not a dipped beam so on roads you will annoy drivers and pedestrians. I used to run it on all the time but even during the day I realised I was annoying people. Best thing to do is have an on-off switch, because of the standlight, turning it off basically dims the beam so you can do this when a car or person is approaching. It would be a pain using it in a built up area because you'd be doing this a lot but it's an off-road light after all.

You can buy a K-lite switch but if you get a soldering iron and some bits of cable and xt-30 or xt-60 connectors you can easily make your own switch that has a cable to the rear light as well, so you don't need to use the K-lite blinker.

[Lazarus]

Sinewave beacon user
Has on and off switch
Has high and low
Has charging of a usb battery pack ( Inc whilst light is on or off and priority to either light or battery bank)
Can run it off a usb battery cache ( again high and low )
Have you tried a dynamo off road .....not great as if you slow for something technical you now have less light as well hence I like the best if both option with the sinewave.
As far as I know any rear works with any dynamo light ( annoyingly this does not work when you use battery for the light in my case )

Revo( seem to recall you can wire power to rear output and fry it have they fixed this ?) is road legal iirc and also some good German ones supernova

[kvragu]

You can buy a K-lite switch but if you get a soldering iron and some bits of cable and xt-30 or xt-60 connectors you can easily make your own switch that has a cable to the rear light as well, so you don't need to use the K-lite blinker.

I like this idea, I'll need to check it out.

[kvragu]

I've had two types of K-lite and a Revo - I still have the K-lites The Revo does look neater but I find the K-lites offer a better beam and also tend to produce more useable light at lower speeds (I assume this is to do with the internal capacitor).

Neither will really limit your choices with regard to rear light or charging - they do all use different connections and there'll always be a requirement for some DIY wiring, although the K-lite does offer plug and play options for both.

Never really considered not having an off switch to be an issue - aside from the 'oi your lights are on' comments.

There should be some K-lite reviews etc over here: https://www.bearbonesbikepacking.co.uk/?s=k-lite

I read your reviews, much appreciated. Sounds good, guess I'm grabbing the klite!

[Joe]

I like this idea, I'll need to check it out.

Also means you can get it just the right length. Using some adhesive lined heatshrink will keep things neat, strong and waterproof and with some Sugru you can mount the cable to a handlebar or the top of your forks.

[kvragu]

You can buy a K-lite switch but if you get a soldering iron and some bits of cable and xt-30 or xt-60 connectors you can easily make your own switch that has a cable to the rear light as well, so you don't need to use the K-lite blinker.

If I get a xt30 connector, e.g., https://www.amazon.co.uk/FLY-RC-Connect ... r=8-5&th=1, and something to cover and waterproof them, is that alone enough for a direct hub-light connection?

[Joe]

You can buy a K-lite switch but if you get a soldering iron and some bits of cable and xt-30 or xt-60 connectors you can easily make your own switch that has a cable to the rear light as well, so you don't need to use the K-lite blinker.

If I get a xt30 connector, e.g., https://www.amazon.co.uk/FLY-RC-Connect ... r=8-5&th=1, and something to cover and waterproof them, is that alone enough for a direct hub-light connection?

You'll need some wire, the wire on those won't be long enough. Might be better off buying just the XT30 without a wire and soldering your correct length wire on to it. You will also need whatever connector your hub uses if you don't already have one. If it's a Shimano or similar you won't need to solder anything at the hub end because the cable is sort of clipped in to the connector. If you have a SON you'll need to crimp or solder your connections.

[Bearbonesnorm]

is that alone enough for a direct hub-light connection?

Yes.

[kvragu]

Alright, if I add a switch, would something like this be enough (https://www.switchelectronics.co.uk/563 ... t-4a-30vdc)? Any idea how to waterproof it, apart from taping it up and keeping it in a bag?

[Bearbonesnorm]

That'd be fine. You can buy rubber boots for most toggle switches but just how waterproof they are in debatable - although they must help.

[fatbikephil]

I used one of these:- https://www.feked.com/universal-indicat ... -bars.html similar available off ebay - wired for off (central) power light or charge via a cycle 2 charge etc. Totally un water proof but works fine as long it gets an occasional skoosh of wd40

[dlovett]

HI Have a Revo and two B&M's. plus I also had a Klite.

Avoid the klite like the plague, it wasn't very good light, only used on road in the dry and it failed after about three months. They didn't honour the warranty on it, were terrible for customer service and when I complained about the whole situation to somebody senior there about the situation, they were very rude to me about it. The local supplier I bought it from in Australia, stopped selling klite in the end due to the issues they had with them for a total lack of customer/dealer service. Once klite had your money, they didn't want to know.

The old B&M front and rear still works fine after 10-12 years. Good for road use beam wise. The new B&M front is an Ixous?? with a USB port. The first one stopped working with water ingress and was replaced under warranty by SJ. The replacement also has suffered an issue that the usb Port stopped working along with the rear light ports, the rear light still works fine though. I understand the first year of Ixous is known for water leak issues. B&M weren't able to help and just refered my to SJ, who said sorry out of warranty.

The Revo is my go to light along with a red eye cable for the rear. Amazing beam for off road, on road its almost two bright. I fine it needs about 4km/h to start to glow and hits bright by about 12-14km/h. as you go faster it gets brighter. It's certainly enough for DH and fast single track. I've used it on all ITT's Ive riden as well as a daily driver, so for about 18,000km so far with zero issues. In terms of a switch, during the day I connect the dynamo power to a ewerk and at night connect it to the revo. I have ridden with split power and it also works. It also faintly glows for about an hour when it's finish, just about enough to set up a bivy etc or be seen at a short distance. The rear is also very bright and in groups people say it's too red to be behind. No issues, but I did have one with another exposure product and they literally couldn't do enough to sort it out. Were I lived in Sussex, 75% or so of local riders used Exposure because they were such good lights, had great service and were a local company. I have four Exposure lights now including a used exposure bought from the classifed forum here and despite being old it still works like it was new.

Yes they aren't cheap, but buy cheap buy twice.

I am in the market for a runner's headlight and despite the cost, Exposure will be top of my list as it I am sure will be a very good light, but it will work and if it ever doesn't they will sort it out for me.

[kvragu]

HI Have a Revo and two B&M's. plus I also had a Klite.

Avoid the klite like the plague, it wasn't very good light, only used on road in the dry and it failed after about three months. They didn't honour the warranty on it, were terrible for customer service and when I complained about the whole situation to somebody senior there about the situation, they were very rude to me about it. The local supplier I bought it from in Australia, stopped selling klite in the end due to the issues they had with them for a total lack of customer/dealer service. Once klite had your money, they didn't want to know.

Well that might be a bummer, my klite just arrived today...

[sean_iow]

Duncan's would have been the original style light, it's been completely redesigned since then.

[kvragu]

Duncan's would have been the original style light, it's been completely redesigned since then.

Yeah that seemed oddly at odds with most other feedback. Phew.

[dlovett]

Duncan's would have been the original style light, it's been completely redesigned since then.

Not sure what model it was and it doesn't change the fact they totally lack customer service. This wasn't a one of issue, locally in Australia they didn't have a good reputation, hence why along with all the issues, the shop stopped selling them.

[kvragu]

So I tried to do the wiring but to no avail. I soldered a wire to the xt30 connector, no luck. Tried to crimp, same thing. I flipped the wires at the hub connector both times to check if the poles were wrong. Another dynamo light works with the hub. Any ideas? Should I move this to another thread?

[Lazarus]

Are you saying the light does not work ? Can you bypass the connector and plug light into dynamo hub directly* ( could be switch connector or light seeing hub definitely works) . Should allow you to know if it's the light or the connector.

* Don't have a k lite but assume this is risk free but CHECK to be sure. If you cannot plug working light into connector to check it works.

[Bearbonesnorm]

As John says, try connecting the light directly to the dynamo with no switch or anything else. Which way round the connectors are on the dynamo shouldn't matter.

[kvragu]

Wasn't using a switch, it's a straight wire running from the hub to the light. Light is not turning on when I spin the wheel.

The hub works, so it's either the wire or the lamp. I'll try to connect another known working light to the wire with the xt30 connector to confirm it's not the wire. Already contacted sjs, hopefully they play ball.

[Bearbonesnorm]

Sounds daft but there's a chance 'just spinning' the wheel won't be enough at first.

[Lazarus]

EDIT:My sinewave will flicker if you just push the bike / move it but no idea re K lite and start speed

ORIGINAL
If it's a wire issue there will be external signs of distress as it's a multitude of thin copper wire wound together ( so really needs a clean cut and a gap to totally fail) . It's pretty unlikely and should be seen with a visual inspection.
It's possible your plug is wrong( or theirs but unlikely ) but you can test that with a volt meter ( or wiring the working lamp to it - direct to where you soldered / crimped then with an actual connector in it if it passes the first test .

I would assume light personally as wire almost never fails without the shroud being worn away or burnt out IME

Might be worth doing a video of it but assume SJS will be fine as it's not working .
Pain for you and I was interested to read your review as much brighter claims than my sinewave ( but that seems as bright as my exposure which says 1200 lumen iirc)

[kvragu]

Sounds daft but there's a chance 'just spinning' the wheel won't be enough at first.

Not really, I'm the first one that doesn't understands how it all works inside. That said, a B&M light was fine with just a spin, and klite was supposed to be supr good at catching current at low speed? Maybe there's a cache thingy that needs to reach a critical point?