A late September entry. I’ve had a fair of domestic and personal admin stuff going on this week so I’ve struggled to put finger to keyboard. Better late than never, though, here goes…
On the morning of Friday 24th September, a couple of long-time cycling buddies and I departed Inverness with no real fixed ambitions other than to ride as much of the Badger Divide route as time (and the weather, more of that later) permitted. We’d each agreed that steady and relaxed was the way we’d approach it. In the event we covered the ground at a decent enough pace but, to be honest, we probably dallied too long in the various eateries we encountered along the way.
The bikes, etc: I rode my Giant Anthem carbon hardtail with Apidura bags. Pal No 1 opted for his Lamere lightweight carbon fat bike with Lauf forks. Bags were a mix of Crikey, how much and Restrap. Pal No 2 used his singlespeed steel Genesis Croix de Fer with a Carradice saddle bag, Miss Grape frame bag and a dry bag Voile-strapped to the bars. Rather him than me with the singlespeed tactic but he did incredibly well and where he was reduced to walking up the steeper hills, so was I! Our fat friend, however, pootled up most of the hills on his 1 x system with a 50T bottom gear. Throughout the hillier parts of the ride I found myself constantly thinking, “I need some of that!”
As forecast, we encountered a headwind most of the way. Amongst the forested sections of the Great Glen Way this wasn’t much of a problem although on the more exposed sections farther south it did become a bit of a grind at times.
Untitled by
Jimmy G, on Flickr
Untitled by
Jimmy G, on Flickr
Untitled by
Jimmy G, on Flickr
Untitled by
Jimmy G, on Flickr
After spending too long at the Abriachan Eco camp site and café (the sun was out at the time and the coffee and cake were tasty), we eventually reached Fort Augustus in darkness, just in time to catch the chip shop before it closed. Fish and chips all round, seeing as you’re wondering.
Untitled by
Jimmy G, on Flickr
That night we camped on the shore of Loch Ness.
Untitled by
Jimmy G, on Flickr
Untitled by
Jimmy G, on Flickr
The Corrieyairack Pass: I’d be lying if I said I enjoyed the long slog to the top but I certainly did enjoy the well-earned descent, including the renowned multiple hairpins section.
Untitled by
Jimmy G, on Flickr
Untitled by
Jimmy G, on Flickr
Untitled by
Jimmy G, on Flickr
On the night of Day 2 we bivvied on the northeast corner of Loch Ossian where I’d camped on my own exactly two years ago. It had remained windy all day and the surrounding fir trees and rhododendron bushes provided welcome shelter. Next morning we packed and rode up to Corrour Station for the obligatory photos. Currently the station restaurant is advertising that they’re closed on Sundays due to the on-going Sunday rail strike up that way. However, one of our number, spying the open kitchen door, stuck his head in and asked if they were in fact open. The answer was “Not for hot food but we’d be happy to provide coffee and cakes, etc.” At this point it was windy with a light drizzle so this unexpected opportunity to get food, shelter and the electronics recharged was very welcome indeed.
Untitled by
Jimmy G, on Flickr
Untitled by
Jimmy G, on Flickr
Untitled by
Jimmy G, on Flickr
On the night of Day 3 we stayed in the Kilvrecht forest campsite near the south shore of Loch Rannoch. This late in the season, it wasn’t busy but nearly all the other occupants were in campers or caravans, something they’d have been mighty glad of when the rain arrived that night around 10 and continued incessantly until around midday the following day.
The afore-mentioned rain proved too much for Croix de Fer guy’s tarp as, wind-driven, it got underneath. Fortunately, he had a bivvy bag, too, but his sleeping mat was saturated. My SMD Lunar Solo held up well initially but eventually the rain got so heavy that it started to penetrate in the form of a fine mist which rendered my sleeping bag damp on the outside although at least I remained dry inside. The 'fat' member of our crew had a Big Agnes double-skinned tent and fared rather better but, not having a ground sheet/footprint, the saturated ground eventually soaked up through his tent floor. With the forecast predicting more of the same weather for at least the next day, we unanimously agreed to call it a day and head along the roads to Pitlochry where we could catch the train back to Edinburgh.
Untitled by
Jimmy G, on Flickr
We all agreed that, despite the rain towards the end, it had been a fun trip. The trails (bone dry throughout, incidentally) and scenery were every bit as impressive as advertised. After the heavy rain, though, anyone riding those same trails the following week would tell a different tail, I'm sure. I’m not sure if I’ll go back to attempt the whole route next year but I do plan on riding the remaining sections that we didn’t get to see on this occasion.
That’s 9 from 9 BAMs this year and 45 consecutive months.