• Bar end shifters

Posted: **Mon May 11, 2020 11:38 am**

I've got some drops and Dura ace bar end shifters on the way so I can try monstercrossing my stooge. it's first time I will have set up any sort of drops so What's the consensus on the best way to route gear cables for bar end shifters?
Ta.

Posted: **Mon May 11, 2020 11:51 am**

I've run them with the inners all the way up the bar to by the stem, and also coming out of the tape in the drops a bit below the lever clamp. The first way looks cleaner, and is less likely to catch on fingers but the second gives smoother routing and shifting (and is a bit lighter if that bothers you)

Posted: **Mon May 11, 2020 11:52 am**

Mine are all routed beneath the bar (below the tape) and exit where the tape ends on the tops.

Posted: **Mon May 11, 2020 12:07 pm**

My fargo came with the cables coming out of the tape on the drops. When I retaped/cabled I routed them out by the stem and it had no adverse effect on shifting. It made it a lot easier to fit luggage in the bars and looks neater to boot.

Posted: **Mon May 11, 2020 12:15 pm**

thanks all, i'll try routed to the end of the tape first and see how the shifting is

Posted: **Mon May 11, 2020 1:50 pm**

My brake hoses are routed on the underside of the drops. When I’m holding the tops they sit underneath my fingertips, it’s not uncomfortable but I’m aware of them. I might try routing them at the back of the tops next time. I’d try a few different positions with electrical tape and see where you find it most comfortable.

Posted: **Mon May 11, 2020 1:54 pm**

BigdummySteve wrote: ↑Mon May 11, 2020 1:50 pm My brake hoses are routed on the underside of the drops. When I’m holding the tops they sit underneath my fingertips, it’s not uncomfortable but I’m aware of them. I might try routing them at the back of the tops next time. I’d try a few different positions with electrical tape and see where you find it most comfortable.

yeah that sounds like a plan. good idea.

Posted: **Tue May 12, 2020 5:04 am**

Mine are routed the same as the sti’s were, once the bars are double wrapped you can’t feel them

Posted: **Tue May 12, 2020 11:16 pm**

Right, bugger. I think I've dropped a Clanger.
So, I've got these Dura ace bar end shifters (like these https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/produc ... -used-5255 )
on the way. But my rear mech (I'm running 1x10) is a deore clutch jobby (this: https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/shimano-de ... 36627490/p )
They're not going to work together are they?
Or will the Dura ace in friction mode be ok?
Fingers crossed!!!

Posted: **Wed May 13, 2020 8:27 am**

i routed all my cables to exit at the rear of the bars to make it easier to mount the bar harness,when i fit cables now to any bike i all ways fit the bag harness first then route the cables accordinly

Posted: **Wed May 13, 2020 8:29 am**

techno wrote: ↑Tue May 12, 2020 11:16 pm Right, bugger. I think I've dropped a Clanger.
So, I've got these Dura ace bar end shifters (like these https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/produc ... -used-5255 )
on the way. But my rear mech (I'm running 1x10) is a deore clutch jobby (this: https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/shimano-de ... 36627490/p )
They're not going to work together are they?
Or will the Dura ace in friction mode be ok?
Fingers crossed!!!

you could use a wolf tooth tanpan or clamp the caple to a different side of the mech to alter the pull ratio

Posted: **Wed May 13, 2020 9:44 am**

techno wrote: ↑Tue May 12, 2020 11:16 pm Right, bugger. I think I've dropped a Clanger.
So, I've got these Dura ace bar end shifters (like these https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/produc ... -used-5255 )
on the way. But my rear mech (I'm running 1x10) is a deore clutch jobby (this: https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/shimano-de ... 36627490/p )
They're not going to work together are they?
Or will the Dura ace in friction mode be ok?
Fingers crossed!!!

Microshift make a bar end shifter (BS-M10) that is compatible with Shimano MTB 10-speed.

Posted: **Wed May 13, 2020 9:48 am**

windjammer wrote: ↑Wed May 13, 2020 8:29 am you could use a wolf tooth tanpan or clamp the caple to a different side of the mech to alter the pull ratio

Thanks forgot about that. Had a look around and for £20 less: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cables/jtek-shiftmate-6/
Do you mean putting the clamp bolt through from the bottom?
Or leave the bolt where it is and clamping the cable at the other side to the guide slot?

windjammer wrote: ↑Wed May 13, 2020 8:27 am i routed all my cables to exit at the rear of the bars to make it easier to mount the bar harness,when i fit cables now to any bike i all ways fit the bag harness first then route the cables accordinly

Good point, i'll try my revelate harness on there before I tape it all up.

Posted: **Wed May 13, 2020 9:49 am**

chris n wrote: ↑Wed May 13, 2020 9:44 am Microshift make a bar end shifter (BS-M10) that is compatible with Shimano MTB 10-speed.

Thanks, I'll price up the different options and see what's cheapest.

Posted: **Wed May 13, 2020 10:51 am**

Maybe I'll just make it single speed.....

Posted: **Wed May 13, 2020 5:32 pm**

techno wrote: ↑Wed May 13, 2020 10:51 am Maybe I'll just make it single speed.....

That's the most sensible thing that's ever been said on here

Posted: **Wed May 13, 2020 10:19 pm**

sean_iow wrote: ↑Wed May 13, 2020 5:32 pm
techno wrote: ↑Wed May 13, 2020 10:51 am Maybe I'll just make it single speed.....
That's the most sensible thing that's ever been said on here

Posted: **Thu May 14, 2020 10:33 am**

Right, bugger. I think I've dropped a Clanger.

You'll need a 9s non-clutch MTB mech to run 10s index road shifters. But you may be suprised how well modern narrow chains and ramped cassettes work with friction shifters, far less adjustment post-shift needed than I expected. I use a mix of 9 and 10s on my MTB 'packer to get a clutch mech on old 9s kit and you just get a feel for how much to move the thumbie, it's no problem. Worth a try (as is SS

)

Posted: **Thu May 14, 2020 2:29 pm**

jameso wrote: ↑Thu May 14, 2020 10:33 am
Right, bugger. I think I've dropped a Clanger.
You'll need a 9s non-clutch MTB mech to run 10s index road shifters. But you may be suprised how well modern narrow chains and ramped cassettes work with friction shifters, far less adjustment post-shift needed than I expected. I use a mix of 9 and 10s on my MTB 'packer to get a clutch mech on old 9s kit and you just get a feel for how much to move the thumbie, it's no problem. Worth a try (as is SS )

Thanks James,
I was intending to try friction mode first if it will work, so that's what i needed to hear

It'll be nostalgic, going back to the days of:

EDIT::

check these i spotted when searching for that pic:

https://www.bikeradar.com/features/thro ... lideshow=1
http://www.vintagemtbworkshop.com/1987- ... ature.html

on the theme: http://www.kellybike.com/product/takeoff/

Posted: **Sun May 17, 2020 6:51 pm**

Update:
I'm still waiting for the shifters to come but couldn't wait to fit the bars! Not been for a ride yet and have a few different stems to try tuning the position so the set-up will no doubt change but I'm happy so far!
Also got some skinny CX tyres for my 29er wheels for when I feel like pretending to be a roadie

IMG_17052020_183831_(1000_x_561_pixel).jpg: (160.02 KiB) Downloaded 631 times

Bar end shifters

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