Highland Trail Recce
Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 10:14 am
With good weather forecast and actually delivered we headed up to Scotland to recce the southern loop (and a bit) of the Highland Trail. A bit photo heavy!
The last time Cath and I had headed out of Tyndrum on the WHW it had been several centimetres deep in water, not today.

Turn right up towards Glen Lyon and even the big ford is pretty low.

Not much snow on them thar hills

Heading down Glen Lyon to the cafe at Bridge of Balgie, the back end of the bike felt a bit soft so put some air in the tyre. By the time we'd got to the cafe it was soft again and wouldn't take air. Hmm. Put in an inner tube. Not good so early in the ride plus there were the waterbars on the Ben Alder singletrack that had done for me on last year's HT.
The bog getting to Benalder cottage was almost as dry as last summer and I almost got across it dryshod.
This bike is wearing a helmet! Getting on to the bridge over the Alder Burn

Doesn't look happy.

I needn't have worried about the water bars, I negotiated all of them OK. The last time Cath did this section was a couple of Xmases ago when there was a massive amount of snow melt and we had to build cairns in the burns to get across them.


The money shot down to Loch Corrour

We bivvied at Culra bothy, not in it due to asbestos though because of the strong wind we did use the room to eat. I got the chance to use my new Gatewood cape tarp.

More sunshine heading out from the bothy

Then it was down the Pattack and along the road to Laggan but we were way too early for breakfast so onwards to the Corrieyairack pass.

At the top of the climb (not quite the summit) - we had to cross one snow patch just before here.

Down in Fort Augustus we had lunch at the pizza place and I discovered why, two years ago, my second veggie pizza had jalapenos and was somewhat spicy: there's veggie pizza and "full" veggie pizza. Somehow I'd ordered the latter.
Alan G had emailed about a possible diversion after FA but it turned out the works had completed so the usual route along the Great Glen Way was passable. It began to rain as we headed up to Loch ma Stack. I was surprised to notice that there's a path beginning to appear along the shoreline, just here and there but a definite smoothing and dying back of vegetation. We decided to stop in Corrymony bothy as we were cold from the rain and wind.
I soon had a fire going and with it being my birthday we drank the whisky we'd brought

In the morning I stepped outside and noticed something. "Cath!", "Come here and look". A couple of hundred metres away there was a black grouse leck going on. In the photo below you can just make out the white rumps of a couple of males, in front of the three brown bushes.

We got a second breakfast in Cannich then rode in to the bottom end of Glen Affric to pick up the return route. Of course this included three climbs, two of them big ones, in quick succession to get back to Fort Augustus.
The descent to Glen Moriston

The climb up yet another of General Wade's roads

Finally down in to FA and another visit to the pizza place. I had seafood pasta this time.
Next up was the 50km TT route down the Great Glen, with a headwind

Once in the trees we were more sheltered. Near Clunes the route deviates from the road to take in some singletrack.

Finally we get to Fort William and raid the Co-op in Caol and gird our loins for the long fire road climb out of Glen Nevis. It's dark by the time we reach the top so it's a bit stop start along the path. The wind is really strong so we need to find somewhere reasonably sheltered to bivvy. Just as we are about to cross a burn I notice a flat(ter) area, it'll do. The fire pit isn't ours by the way.

In the morning it's still windy, in fact we'll have a headwind all the way back to Tyndrum.


More food at the Co-op in Kinlochleven then it's the big pull up and over the Devil's Staircase. There'd been a moorland fire the previous night - a careless match or cigarette most likely - with an easterly wind there were burnt areas right by the track to the east of all the burn. Heard our first cuckoo of the year as we slogged up the access road.

Cath at the summit with Ben Nevis in the background.

In Glen Coe with the Buachaille behind.

I'd forgotten that the HT550 had a section of pavé, Telford's old road across Rannoch. Then it was just the crux of the whole HT route - lifting the bike over the gate under the railway track.

Four hard days. Apart from an hour or so on the Sunday night we didn't do any riding at night and were pretty leisurely at getting going in the morning, having a couple of brews. Other than the rain on Saturday evening the weather was ace, I've even got cyclist's tan lines already!
Then it was just the drive home, avoiding the hour long delays going down by Loch Lomond we went via Callander and Stirling.
The last time Cath and I had headed out of Tyndrum on the WHW it had been several centimetres deep in water, not today.

Turn right up towards Glen Lyon and even the big ford is pretty low.

Not much snow on them thar hills

Heading down Glen Lyon to the cafe at Bridge of Balgie, the back end of the bike felt a bit soft so put some air in the tyre. By the time we'd got to the cafe it was soft again and wouldn't take air. Hmm. Put in an inner tube. Not good so early in the ride plus there were the waterbars on the Ben Alder singletrack that had done for me on last year's HT.
The bog getting to Benalder cottage was almost as dry as last summer and I almost got across it dryshod.
This bike is wearing a helmet! Getting on to the bridge over the Alder Burn

Doesn't look happy.

I needn't have worried about the water bars, I negotiated all of them OK. The last time Cath did this section was a couple of Xmases ago when there was a massive amount of snow melt and we had to build cairns in the burns to get across them.


The money shot down to Loch Corrour

We bivvied at Culra bothy, not in it due to asbestos though because of the strong wind we did use the room to eat. I got the chance to use my new Gatewood cape tarp.

More sunshine heading out from the bothy

Then it was down the Pattack and along the road to Laggan but we were way too early for breakfast so onwards to the Corrieyairack pass.

At the top of the climb (not quite the summit) - we had to cross one snow patch just before here.

Down in Fort Augustus we had lunch at the pizza place and I discovered why, two years ago, my second veggie pizza had jalapenos and was somewhat spicy: there's veggie pizza and "full" veggie pizza. Somehow I'd ordered the latter.
Alan G had emailed about a possible diversion after FA but it turned out the works had completed so the usual route along the Great Glen Way was passable. It began to rain as we headed up to Loch ma Stack. I was surprised to notice that there's a path beginning to appear along the shoreline, just here and there but a definite smoothing and dying back of vegetation. We decided to stop in Corrymony bothy as we were cold from the rain and wind.
I soon had a fire going and with it being my birthday we drank the whisky we'd brought


In the morning I stepped outside and noticed something. "Cath!", "Come here and look". A couple of hundred metres away there was a black grouse leck going on. In the photo below you can just make out the white rumps of a couple of males, in front of the three brown bushes.

We got a second breakfast in Cannich then rode in to the bottom end of Glen Affric to pick up the return route. Of course this included three climbs, two of them big ones, in quick succession to get back to Fort Augustus.
The descent to Glen Moriston

The climb up yet another of General Wade's roads

Finally down in to FA and another visit to the pizza place. I had seafood pasta this time.
Next up was the 50km TT route down the Great Glen, with a headwind


Once in the trees we were more sheltered. Near Clunes the route deviates from the road to take in some singletrack.

Finally we get to Fort William and raid the Co-op in Caol and gird our loins for the long fire road climb out of Glen Nevis. It's dark by the time we reach the top so it's a bit stop start along the path. The wind is really strong so we need to find somewhere reasonably sheltered to bivvy. Just as we are about to cross a burn I notice a flat(ter) area, it'll do. The fire pit isn't ours by the way.

In the morning it's still windy, in fact we'll have a headwind all the way back to Tyndrum.


More food at the Co-op in Kinlochleven then it's the big pull up and over the Devil's Staircase. There'd been a moorland fire the previous night - a careless match or cigarette most likely - with an easterly wind there were burnt areas right by the track to the east of all the burn. Heard our first cuckoo of the year as we slogged up the access road.

Cath at the summit with Ben Nevis in the background.

In Glen Coe with the Buachaille behind.

I'd forgotten that the HT550 had a section of pavé, Telford's old road across Rannoch. Then it was just the crux of the whole HT route - lifting the bike over the gate under the railway track.

Four hard days. Apart from an hour or so on the Sunday night we didn't do any riding at night and were pretty leisurely at getting going in the morning, having a couple of brews. Other than the rain on Saturday evening the weather was ace, I've even got cyclist's tan lines already!
Then it was just the drive home, avoiding the hour long delays going down by Loch Lomond we went via Callander and Stirling.