I was out on the ss today
started a climb when the qr snapped off drive side at the tug nut

Fatigue?
Too tight?

9x135mm

If it's aluminium it might be fatigue. I swapped mine out for a steel one.

whitestone wrote:If it's aluminium it might be fatigue. I swapped mine out for a steel one.

It's a halo one been on the bike about 5 years so it could be fatgive
I use it alot because of the slot drop outs readjusting the chain

I had a Halo one snap on the HT. Wheel moved in the (slot) drop-out descending the Devils Staircase, loosened it, realigned the wheel, went to re-tighten and snap.

Bearbonesnorm wrote:I had a Halo one snap on the HT. Wheel moved in the (slot) drop-out descending the Devils Staircase, loosened it, realigned the wheel, went to re-tighten and snap.

Not the best place for it! at least I was only few miles from my van

Still using halo ones ?

Still using halo ones ?

Replaced with Shimano.

The Halo one was a bolt-up one rather than a QR ... I do wonder whether or not that could lead to over stressing the things when making sure they're fully torqued to FT?

If you are regularly checking torque values then you should always back off first.

Jay
I converted over to Shimano on the Swift and they were good
The Hopes i had on previously had issues with the exposed cam bit becoming scored and subsequently not holding strong enough despite being fully clamped on

Mart

jay have you got tug nuts on both sides, I always had 2 and never needed to overtighten the qr, shimano for me as well

when making sure they're fully torqued to FT?

If you are regularly checking torque values then you should always back off first.

'FT' engineering speak for f*cking tight ... no torque wrench required.

paramart wrote:jay have you got tug nuts on both sides, I always had 2 and never needed to overtighten the qr, shimano for me as well

Only one side never had a problem with it moving.

The qr broken on the nut side when riding not tighting it

Mart wrote:Jay
I converted over to Shimano on the Swift and they were good
The Hopes i had on previously had issues with the exposed cam bit becoming scored and subsequently not holding strong enough despite being fully clamped on

Mart

I've taken a halo one off my cx bike for now
I'll have a look at Shimano

Bearbonesnorm wrote:

Still using halo ones ?

Replaced with Shimano.

The Halo one was a bolt-up one rather than a QR ... I do wonder whether or not that could lead to over stressing the things when making sure they're fully torqued to FT?

Funnily enough, I read an article on QRs in a magazine. It was about lightweight skewers and Shimano came up as one of the heaviest but they claimed the extra weight penalty of the Shimano skewer was more than worth it due to their strength and reliability.

The magazine also claimed that it was probably one of the worse areas to be a weight weenie and they may have a point

voodoo_simon wrote:

Bearbonesnorm wrote:

Still using halo ones ?

Replaced with Shimano.

The Halo one was a bolt-up one rather than a QR ... I do wonder whether or not that could lead to over stressing the things when making sure they're fully torqued to FT?

Funnily enough, I read an article on QRs in a magazine. It was about lightweight skewers and Shimano came up as one of the heaviest but they claimed the extra weight penalty of the Shimano skewer was more than worth it due to their strength and reliability.

The magazine also claimed that it was probably one of the worse areas to be a weight weenie and they may have a point

No weight weenie over here

Think I'll end up buying some Shimanos

I use Salsa ones, they're stainless steel and I've never had a problem, I also
Do things up to ' FT'

Shimano here on my SS. Only one tugnut on the DS - never been an issue.

GregMay wrote:Shimano here on my SS. Only one tugnut on the DS - never been an issue.

I'm a Shimano QR user, the ones with a side-lever rather than over-the-end lever (you know what I mean!) - they seem to have a more secure action.


All this FT talk, surely that is defeating the whole design purpose of the cam action of a QR skewer? I've seen so many users tighten the nut by spinning the lever end then really cranking it tight then having to force the lever over; this effectively makes the design ineffective! Surely the idea of the cam is to take up the elasticity and shouldn't require any more than a modicum of leverage to work? Too tight puts much greater stress on the skewer and would be more likely to cause/accelerate failure. [I am not an engineer ]

All this FT talk, surely that is defeating the whole design purpose of the cam action of a QR skewer? I've seen so many users tighten the nut by spinning the lever end then really cranking it tight then having to force the lever over; this effectively makes the design ineffective! Surely the idea of the cam is to take up the elasticity and shouldn't require any more than a modicum of leverage to work? Too tight puts much greater stress on the skewer and would be more likely to cause/accelerate failure. [I am not an engineer ]

Yes ... but in my defence, my broken one was of a 'bolt-up' design

I've busted a shimano one - after several years of use to be fair. I've also had a couple strip threads (bodgeable by carrying an m5 nut) and one lever snapped. Dunt matter how strong it is I can always FIU but Shimanos do seem to be more durable than most.

I've used DT Swiss RWS skewers for years with no problems. Not cheap though.

Ive got a DT Swiss RWS 10mm axle on my posh bike ant it been faultless so far

Posh people ay