I've just come in from the shed after giving the Krampus some post BB200 love and affection.
I've counted 9 thorns in the front tyre and 2 in the rear. The tyres were pumped up 6 days ago and have only lost 3psi between them. I didn't have a single flat the whole ride.
I LOVE TUBELESS...
... when I'm not fighting to seat a tyre, or get a tyre off a rim, or changing a tyre in a hurry, or spilling sealant all over my trousers, or stopping air leaking out of the spoke holes, or all of the other pita elements of running tubeless.

feeling the love here
Just remember if you ever have to put a tube in.

After a couple of split tyres which needed a tube I also carry a small repair kit for punctures that don't seal. I've had to use it twice, once in the desert south of Lima on the divide last year and once in Canada this year.

The kit I've got is a Dynaplug Pill, just looked at the price and it's gone up a lot (if you can find a stockist).

While not a perfect system I've found that the things that stop it working, like torn/split/ripped side walls, are also the things that would stop you if you used tubes.

Still very much a lottery as to which tyre works with which rim, sometimes one tyre will work on a rim but then won't work on the next tyre/rim even though they are the same combo.

lune ranger wrote:... when I'm not fighting to seat a tyre, or get a tyre off a rim, or changing a tyre in a hurry, or spilling sealant all over my trousers, or stopping air leaking out of the spoke holes, or all of the other pita elements of running tubeless.

But as I say to people who haven't seen the light (unlike yourself who is a convert), I get to choose when I do these things and it can be in the workshop, in the dry and the warm

I wouldn't go back to tubes now. Given the number of times I had a bit of hawthorn stuck in my front wheel on the BB300 it's no exaggeration to say that if I had tubes I wouldn't have made it round, I'd have run out of spare tubes, patches or patience!

that is the key the faff is in the warmth of your garage /shed /kitchen rather than the wet and the cold of the trail

That said if those tyres dont seat next attempt for my winter SS then its time for some cheap tubeless rims as I am now at frustration point - to be fair its not a tubeless specific rim so should not crumble that much

sean_iow wrote:
I wouldn't go back to tubes now. Given the number of times I had a bit of hawthorn stuck in my front wheel on the BB300 it's no exaggeration to say that if I had tubes I wouldn't have made it round, I'd have run out of spare tubes, patches or patience!

On the BB200 I carried three spare tubes
Had seven punctures
Stopped twice to repair the three

I estimate 15mins per service (whether a swap or a repair)
So, lost approximately 3hours to punctures

Annoyingly, my bottle of Stans sealant was at work Monday.
Will be ordering some WTB Resolute tyres

When it all goes to plan it's great, when it doesn't it's annoying as feck.

Been running tubeless with Stans for a few years and I can’t imagine going back to tubes. I’ve used a lot of worms for repairing larger holes and being a cheapskate I’ve been wondering about creating my own with old inner tubes. Has anyone tried this DIY method? See below:

http://www.lifeinthesaddle.cc/2017/01/h ... g.html?m=1

larsmars wrote:Been running tubeless with Stans for a few years and I can’t imagine going back to tubes. I’ve used a lot of worms for repairing larger holes and being a cheapskate I’ve been wondering about creating my own with old inner tubes. Has anyone tried this DIY method? See below:

http://www.lifeinthesaddle.cc/2017/01/h ... g.html?m=1

Much larger ones for car tyres are available. Way cheaper than bike ones.

I think I may have a box kicking around somewhere if you’d like a few.

Not many punctures going on where I live, but I do think of it from time to time for when I'm back in the lands of flailed hedges and the like.

In the absence of a tubeless set up are the inner tubes with sealant worth using? I'm never racing so not so worried about and additional weight.

Moder-dye wrote:Not many punctures going on where I live, but I do think of it from time to time for when I'm back in the lands of flailed hedges and the like.

In the absence of a tubeless set up are the inner tubes with sealant worth using? I'm never racing so not so worried about and additional weight.

My guess is that a tube with a removable core that you filled with sealant yourself would work pretty well.
I used some pre filled ones in the past (Slime and Dr Sludge) and found that they stopped punctures well but the valves became clogged and useless fairly quickly.
I mainly use Effeto Caffe Latex sealant for tubeless set up and find it works very well with no clogged valves.

Cheers for that advice.

I have a core remover and some valves with ideas in mind in the shed, but don't know if my tubes have removable cores. One way to find out!

And then get some of that fluid... Any idea sort of amount would you put in a 2.3" 29er tyre?

Moder-dye wrote:And then get some of that fluid... Any idea sort of amount would you put in a 2.3" 29er tyre?

100ml or so for starters. Possibly a little more if the tyre has never been tubeless as it takes a little fluid to coat all the inside of the tyre then you need a "reservoir" of fluid that at standstill pools in the bottom of the tyre but when riding is spread around the perimeter.

Moder-dye wrote:
And then get some of that fluid... Any idea sort of amount would you put in a 2.3" 29er tyre?

Effeto (think that's how it's spelt) do an app for sealant amounts for their Caffe Latex sealant. Plug in the data for tyre size and usage etc and it gives you the amount. Suppose it equates well for other brands.

Just plugged in your data to the app.
29x2.3 for inner tube use is 80ml per wheel.
Doesn't sound much but i've followed the app for a while with different wheels and always had good results

Ah cheers Lune Ranger

Tubeless is great however currently fighting some gravelkings. Not impressed with WTB TCS tape, I've got sealant leaking out of the valve holes.

ctznsmith wrote:Tubeless is great however currently fighting some gravelkings. Not impressed with WTB TCS tape, I've got sealant leaking out of the valve holes.

That sucks.
It's Gorilla tape every time for me now.

lune ranger wrote:

Moder-dye wrote:Not many punctures going on where I live, but I do think of it from time to time for when I'm back in the lands of flailed hedges and the like.

In the absence of a tubeless set up are the inner tubes with sealant worth using? I'm never racing so not so worried about and additional weight.

My guess is that a tube with a removable core that you filled with sealant yourself would work pretty well.
I used some pre filled ones in the past (Slime and Dr Sludge) and found that they stopped punctures well but the valves became clogged and useless fairly quickly.
I mainly use Effeto Caffe Latex sealant for tubeless set up and find it works very well with no clogged valves.

I’ve done this before, removing valve cores and injecting slime inside tubes. It works okay but as lune says they get clogged and when it fails it is messy and difficult to patch, heavy and makes your wheels ride like they’ve got mud stuck to them.

Doesn't sound exactly great then

lune ranger wrote:

ctznsmith wrote:Tubeless is great however currently fighting some gravelkings. Not impressed with WTB TCS tape, I've got sealant leaking out of the valve holes.

That sucks.
It's Gorilla tape every time for me now.

I used Gorilla tape on my MTB wheels and found it pretty easy to set up. TCS tape in comparison seems a nightmare to apply evenly and then really fragile and easy to tear once applied.

Still got a fair amount of TCS tape left so may give it another try. Apparently I may have over tightened the valve lockring and so deformed the rubber bit/tape at the vale so that air/sealant is leaking into the rim cavity.

lune ranger wrote:

ctznsmith wrote:Tubeless is great however currently fighting some gravelkings. Not impressed with WTB TCS tape, I've got sealant leaking out of the valve holes.

That sucks.
It's Gorilla tape every time for me now.

+1 for Gorilla tape. It's not the lightest, but it's cheap and just works (so long as rims are perfectly clean and dry before application). Occasionally it will need redoing if the sealant saturates the tape and you've got the wheel deflated. I had this fail on a flight when I had to let all the air out, but it was straightforward to clean and reapply more tape.

larsmars wrote:

lune ranger wrote:

ctznsmith wrote:Tubeless is great however currently fighting some gravelkings. Not impressed with WTB TCS tape, I've got sealant leaking out of the valve holes.

That sucks.
It's Gorilla tape every time for me now.

+1 for Gorilla tape. It's not the lightest, but it's cheap and just works (so long as rims are perfectly clean and dry before application). Occasionally it will need redoing if the sealant saturates the tape and you've got the wheel deflated. I had this fail on a flight when I had to let all the air out, but it was straightforward to clean and reapply more tape.

cheaper + works the same in my experience: https://www.screwfix.com/p/t-rex-feroci ... 3godcS0Dow

Edit, Even cheaper: https://www.diy.com/departments/t-rex-g ... lsrc=aw.ds

I use the little handy rolls of gorilla tape, just the right width for rims, clean rims with isopropyl alcohol make sure everything is nice and warm.....never a problem