I am looking for some long say 150ish mm lock on or double lock on grips.
Preferably in something soft and grippy.
The only ones I have found (Superstar) are currently sold out.
Any suggestions for other makers?

Also anyone using Jones Kraton grips and would care to offer an opinion?
I know they are not lock on but are close to what I am looking for.

jones grips from keeppeddaling in manchester

I have these on my Loops

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/handlebar-t ... ars-black/


SJS have various other types of foam grips too. None of them are lock-on but I've had no issues with mine.

ScotRoutes wrote:I have these on my Loops

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/handlebar-t ... ars-black/


SJS have various other types of foam grips too. None of them are lock-on but I've had no issues with mine.

How are you attaching them to the bars?
Given that they are specified for drop bars how does the difference in diameter effect fitting and removal.
My levers and shifters are not hinged clamp so if I need to remove them - if ever - the grips need to come off first.

I have the ESI xtra chunky XL grips on my Jones, however I have wrapped the inner loop part with Cinelli chunky or something. The ESI grips are rubbish against brambles and are ripped to shreds.
I have those foam grips on another bike and stick them on with hairspray they are much better and half the price of the ESI's plus you get an extra pair.

I can't see any grip working around the loop part, apart from a wrap.

How are you attaching them to the bars?

3M Photo mount works well, sticks foam grips solidly even to Ti bars (ooh get me...). More reliable than hair spray ime. A can lasts ages. A bit of meths gets them off.

Mine are currently held on by friction alone. This has worked for me since my first set of Jones Bars, so around 7 years. I imagine they might go a bit loose if you were constantly removing and refitting them. It's a relatively cheap option to try.

Sounds like a lot of faff compared with a couple of grub screws.
Are the Suprestar build it yourself lock on foams any good?

I have some Hope Lock on grips on my Jones Bars
Think they are ~130mm
They are slightly tacky, so no issues with grip

I'm not really understang the long grip thing ... buy wide bars to give more 'control'. Fit long grips meaning that your controls are now inboard as they would be if you had narrower bars, braking now needs to be carried out from the 'narrow' hand position ... resulting in potentially less 'control'

As above I feel that with my hands at the end of the bars I need to be able to have a finger on the brake lever. For my Tour Divide setup I used the 210mm ESI grips, but cut them so that about 50mm was inboard of my brake levers. This meant I had another option of where to put my hands when in cruising mode.

Bearbonesnorm wrote:I'm not really understang the long grip thing ... buy wide bars to give more 'control'. Fit long grips meaning that your controls are now inboard as they would be if you had narrower bars, braking now needs to be carried out from the 'narrow' hand position ... resulting in potentially less 'control'

Agree - partly.
The Jones recommendation is the controls set inboard but not quite at the bar junction. If you are taping the inner and outer in one you have room for a turn on the outer side of the junction. I have also seen ESI grips cut with a short section inboard of the levers - someone will be along with a photo soon.
Not using I-Spec levers and shifters takes up an inch or so plus I position the lever for one or two finger use. Its not really a stretch from the outer hand position to the brakes but it does require moving hands inboard for brake and shifter.
Works for me and I have been using a 120mm lock on as a temporary grip for the past three years on a 710mm Loop.
On a long trail ride use of the brakes and shifters is minimal anyway plus I am using front loop hand position and occasionally forearms across the loop.
I need to replace the temp foam ones so its just the gap between 'standard' grips and my levers I am looking to fill without using ESI type push ons.

(I suspect I may be going to use Jones Kraton grips but hanging out for lock ons.)

These are set up so I can have my palm on the edge of the bar and still one finger brake.
If you're going downhill on technical terrain you'll need to use the advantages of both at the same time.

Theres then the secondary position where you can place your thumbs inside the loop and rest your palms on the taped bar.
Moving the controls in further means you way not be able to get your hands in that position, as theres stuff in the way.

Before you buy anything i'd have a play around putting the controls in different places to see what works.
Even if that means an afternoon of riding up and down the street with an allen key in your pocket.

My controls are mounted a bit outboard of the bar junction





These are the wider loop bars.

I like the choice if hand positions and I'm not a big guy so having the controls at the position a normal length grip would dictate feels a but wide for me.

Before you buy anything i'd have a play around putting the controls in different places to see what works.

+1

Before you buy anything i'd have a play around putting the controls in different places to see what works.
Even if that means an afternoon of riding up and down the street with an allen key in your pocket.

Er couple of years too late for that. Been there done that still got the allen key.

P1150533 by michaelandamanda, on Flickr

The OP was to try and fill in the gap using a lock on not a push on.

I’m looking a Jones H bar for my build, interesting to hear the thoughts on hand and equipment position

I bought two pairs of rubber coated lock on grips, cut a length off each grip so that two grips are the right length and placed them back to back so there is a lock on at either end and the cuts butt together. Works fine. I used a fork steerer cutting guide to cut the grips square.

Hamish wrote:I bought two pairs of rubber coated lock on grips, cut a length off each grip so that two grips are the right length and placed them back to back so there is a lock on at either end and the cuts butt together. Works fine. I used a fork steerer cutting guide to cut the grips square.

I like that idea how did you anchor them to stop them moving independently at the join?

I didn't anchor them at the join, just butted them together. Because the rubber is carried on a chassis of rigid plastic, the lock on ring at the end of each half keeps them firmly in place.

image by Hamish Osborn, on Flickr

Hamish wrote:I didn't anchor them at the join, just butted them together. Because the rubber is carried on a chassis of rigid plastic, the lock on ring at the end of each half keeps them firmly in place.

image by Hamish Osborn, on Flickr

Like that even more thanks.