So yes, Mrs P away, the mice and Reg will play. Despite not getting home until midnight the previous night from the Beaulocks gig, I stupidly decided to get up at 05.45 and head down to the station to make the most of a weekend away. Everything fine with the trains, except that on the way it gradually dawns on me that I’m somewhat knackered and about to disembark at Macclesfield to be faced with an immediate 1200’ climb to Macclesfield Forest, down 400’ to Bottom-of-the-Oven (ace placename), then back up
another 550’ feet to the Cat & Fiddle Inn.
Nope.
A brew and a bit of cake from the buffet fired up my addled brain which came up with a much more sensible plan – let the train take the hill-climbing strain. So we abandon the Macclesfield plan and carry on to Stockport, where it seems there’s an 8 minute connection for a local train to Buxton. Slight problem. An emergency speed restriction costs us, yes, an
exactly 8 minutes delay! I do enjoy these little frissons of fear with a plan about to go horribly wrong.
The good news is that we claw back a bit of time meaning that arrival at Stockport is only 4 minutes late. The bad news is that I’ve got to get across from Platform 3 to Platform 1 via the subway. No time to use the lift, I hoik the loaded bike down the stairs - ludicrous, I'm an OAP for crying out loud - dash through the subway and up the stairs onto Platform 1 with around a minute and a half to spare. Just about to board and I check the departure display. Eh? This is the 09.04 to Stalybridge not the 09.04 to Buxton – totally the opposite direction. Arg. Another quick dash to the main display shows the Buxton train is actually departing from Platform 0. Platform
ZERO?? Never heard of one of those before. What is this, some kind of Hogwarts lookalike situation? Or maybe it's like JimmyG's scaled-down castle in Edinburgh, and Platform 0 is mysteriously only there one day a year and that day is today. Anyway, down the stairs
again, along the subway, up the hidden stairs to Platform 0, just as the Buxton train is pulling in. Where’s the defibrillator??
[Hang on a moment, Mrs P has just interrupted me to whinge that the toilet flush is “too loud”. Eh? Right, right, let’s go and fiddle with it..]
OK, toilet sorted. Here we are on the Buxton train by some miracle. I’d slung some gear together the previous night – usual stuff plus summer PHD sleeping bag (390g) and Gatewood Cape and this new-fangled TN Moonlite Sleeping Bag Cover purchased after last December’s torrential Winter Bivvy. No rain predicted but the Gatewood’s only 295g and the bag cover only 180g so we’ll take them along. One breakfast packed, but no rainwear. Supposedly 5degC at night so we’ll have some thick fleece leggings as well as light bamboo ones, plus thermal and bamboo base tops, fleece midlayer top, and down jacket for evening.
The trip up to Buxton is enjoyable because you leave the suburbs of Manchester and the scenic pleasures of the Peak are gradually revealed as the train slogs up the steep hill, eventually crossing the bleakness of Black Edge, then down into town. I had intended to actually get off at Dove Holes but it seems this particular service misses it out so, sigh, Buxton it is. I’ve decided to take it nice and steady this weekend and enjoy a few cafes and stop to look at any oddities that present themselves. Yes I know, to any Normals
Reg is one of those oddities himself. Straightaway we have one oddity on the station platform, a bit of artwork created from old railway equipment parts….
The quick way to reach the Monsal Trail is straight down the A6 but that stretch is very dodgy indeed so I’ll take the long way via the golf course. I’m using Reg’s Patent Navigate-By-Café route finding aid, no map, or any electronic gizmo (not that I own such a device), although most of Derbyshire’s layout is in my head to be honest. Outside the station I spy a ginnel (or jitty depending on your heritage) which heads NE so I’ll see where that ends up. It takes me through all sorts of interesting demolished factories, back gardens and a cobbled gennel behind some houses…
Over a narrow stream, up some other secret alleyways and we handily pop out at the Fairfield golf course with its Byway which heads towards Tunstead. I remembered there’s a superb little valley called Woo Dale which heads down from near here to the A6, via a cheeky footpath manouevre. It has no road or stream in it - it’s very peaceful so I just stop for a while and enjoy the birds and bees…
Curiously at the other end there’s a sign stating that I’ve used a permissive bridleway, so somewhere down the valley there must be a footpath/bridleway boundary. Very weird. Anyway, a suicidal dash down the A6 brings me to the Monsal Trail and Blackwell Bike Hire where I have a nice chat with Simon and Cheryl (who send their regards again Stu

and I didn’t know
that about you either

). A posh cappuccino coffee ensues and Cheryl convinces me to have one of her choc cookies. In fact it was so pleasant just nattering I was there for an hour and I also had to have a brew of tea and another cookie. Shocking!
The Monsal Trail was predictably pretty solid with walkers and bikers, but the section from here to Monsal Dale is my favourite as it features several tunnels and bridges and the very attractive Chee Dale.
Using superhuman restraint I forewent the wares at the station café and continued up the road to Tideswell to see if there was any lunch on offer. Normally I go up the ridiculously steep Pennine Bridleway hill but I thought it might be more fun to return that way later. The Tideswell Lounge did me a nice quality sarnie…
…. which gave me strength to tackle the equally nasty lane climb back up to the Pennine Bridleway above Monks Dale. Away from Monsal Dale there was nobody around and I enjoyed the green lanes across the moor, including this nice junction of various lanes….
One thing I’d like to do one day is a tour of as many Derbyshire troughs and wells as possible (there's an idea for you Frog, fancy it?), with a (filtered!) drink from each one. The only trough I came across this weekend was the one at Monksdale Farm – it’s a very hot day so it would be rude not to deploy my Trailshot and have a thirst-quenching draught and fill up my bottle…
Passing Monsal Dale station café again, my feeble sense of restraint had obviously left me and an ice-cream gave me an excuse to chill out for a while and people-watch. Right, now what, or rather now where. After consulting my head map I’d thought about heading over to the Hope Valley and catching the train home from there, but in the end “going south” won the day. The Byway up to Taddington is great fun coming down but a hell of a slog up, so I copped out and set off down the ever-attractive Monsal Trail until a better idea made itself known….
There’s a bridleway/track that heads south from Monsal Viaduct up Putwell Hill and over to Priestcliffe and because I didn’t want to go too far east I diverted off onto that. Of course, it’s just as ridiculously steep as the Taddington Byway, sigh, especially in this heat, but at least at the top there’s a nice view down the Wye Valley and a field of orchids to enjoy for an extended stop… couldn't find the remains of the old Putwell calamine mine though despite my best efforts....
After following the dusty Brushfield Byway to Priestcliffe I was getting a bit peckish even though it was only four o’clock. There’s a boozer in Taddington, but I remembered another one in Chelmorton which would have the advantage of taking me a bit further back west, although the route would include yet more steep climbing from the A6 up the Limestone Way onto Taddington Moor. Clearing that climb, I rewarded my efforts by spending a slightly ridiculous two hours in the pub – the Church Inn which claims to be the highest pub in the highest village in Derbyshire - with a veg chilli, a couple of rehydrating pints and a ludicrously oversized toffee cheesecake with TWO scoops of ice-cream….
Feeling very full up, I didn’t leave until 6pm and as time was moving on I continued westwards along the Pennine Bridleway to the Tissington Trail, which I crossed and headed towards the Upper Dove Valley where there might be somewhere to kip. It was still fairly early so I switched my radar on but only at its minimum setting, keeping half an eye out for a spot.
The Pennine Bridleway is a nice wide moorland track hereabouts, crossing the A515, then past the enormous Hindlow limestone quarry. Several lengthy trains were awaiting their next loads of stone, including this locomotive which thought I couldn’t spot his hiding place from the Fat Controller amongst the bushes right at the end of the line….
A few years ago I’d crashed out in Earl Sterndale graveyard after several hours in the extremely eccentric Quiet Woman pub (cash only, no food apart from pork pies, no musak, no electronics allowed, no kids allowed; absolutely superb but - now very sadly closed after the owner passed away) with just me and the infamous landlord on a freezing February night, but the village was out in force getting ready for their festival so that was a non starter. There was an old chapel up for auction nearby and a quick explore revealed a hidden entrance behind it with some bins. I’d have gone with that but it was still only 7pm, so I pressed on through Glutton (highly appropriate place name after my dinner!) down to the River Dove at Hollinsclough. As you’ve probably gathered this is one of my favourite areas – much less visited than Hartington and Dove Dale further south, the only drawback being the fairly low-flying planes heading for Manchester airport. National parks have “quiet enjoyment” as one of their purposes, and in RegWorld overflying of national parks would be banned.
Anyway, I stopped at the honesty café at the farm, bought a coffee and some oat biscuits and sat for some time enjoying (albeit not that quietly…) the sunset and tweeting birdies…..
After a while the farmer’s wife came out to hang up the washing so I wandered over, apologised for disturbing her and got chatting…. lovely coffee thank you… really appreciate your little café… how’s business… not too bad, could really do with some rain for the crops though… bouncy castle in the garden for daughter’s birthday looks fun… and I then slowly realised that the grass nearby was rather nice and flat… hmm… my spot radar starts beeping insistently…. time to guide the conversation

…. yes I’m on a bit of a ride.. you know, take it as it comes… oh that’s interesting, you’re not carrying much where are you stopping?... a-
ha, and there it is! Ten minutes later I’m fully installed, mat rolled out on the grass, an extra cup of tea, more biscuits, more chat, with the strangely shaped Chrome Hill in the background

.
A very comfy night ensued, albeit a fitful one due to the full moon and the munching cows next door. The sunrise woke me at 05.30, compounded by Daisy having an early breakfast….
I’d had my bag inside the TN sleeping bag cover, with the face netting almost closed against (non-existent) midges, and surprisingly it had a small amount of condensation inside at the foot area. In fact the condensation situation was quite curious – everything was bone dry apart from: the top of my saddle, the outside of my little bathroom drybag, and a small patch on my seatpack, all of which were soaking wet. The rest of the bike was completely dry. Yet another brew from the honesty café and some more biscuits served as a pleasant first breakfast in the early sunshine, then a steep climb out of Hollinsclough fully woke me up….
As is often the case at the top of the hill I spotted what would have been a perfect bivvy place if it hadn’t been for the café grass… up for auction and door wide open…. ah well, next time maybe….
En route was the excellent Flash Bar café in the highest village in England, where I arrived at 8am hoping for a second breakfast. Oops, doesn’t open until 9am and it’s now 8am. Oh well, I whiled away the hour in the sunshine chatting to an RAC man whose “beat” included the Staffordshire Moorlands. Many the times he explained he’s rescued cars stuck in the 10’ deep snowdrifts which regularly occur here in winter.
Finally the café opened and I enjoyed an excellent veggie breakfast plus toast, with a fantastic view right across the Peak District as far as Curbar Edge near Grindleford….
Some nice quiet lanes and tracks led to the quarry at Dane Bower…
… thence to Macclesfield Forest where I noticed the strange hawk/crow friendship reported in the “Wildlife” thread. The tracks down through the forest to Langley are always a blast, bringing me to Macclesfield station for the fast train home.
A very pleasant “emergency BaM” involving plenty of nice dawdling and five café stops…..
5/5, 5/12, 112/112