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Re: Tool lust...

Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 9:22 pm
by Moder-dye
Cheers I had thought of chain line but was worried that with out the derailleur it might not stay on the one you wanted it to. I listened to a podcast today where it happened to a guy and he just could get it to stay on one sprocket with many refits.

Re: Tool lust...

Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 9:44 pm
by pistonbroke
Image
This is a brilliantly designed tool for removing cassettes if you break a drive side spoke or the chain gets mashed into the cassette, includes spoke key. Sadly no longer available but I've got one for trips sans Rohloff.

Re: Tool lust...

Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 1:45 am
by Wotsits
I usually carry a Hyper Cracker in my tool kit too, on some longer trips i've also included an SS cog & spacers as they weigh very little. Well, they weigh less than a spare derailleur & would mean i could carry on riding..

Re: Tool lust...

Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 6:24 pm
by jam bo
Turned up. Got stung for £5 vat and £8 handling fee by post office.

Tis nice though.

Re: Tool lust...

Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 6:31 pm
by firestarter
I used to have one of those piston but sold it when I went rohloff now I'm back on normal stuff I wish I still had it :(

Re: Tool lust...

Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 8:42 pm
by BigdummySteve
pistonbroke wrote:Image
This is a brilliantly designed tool for removing cassettes if you break a drive side spoke or the chain gets mashed into the cassette, includes spoke key. Sadly no longer available but I've got one for trips sans Rohloff.
How does that work, do you need a chain whip?

Re: Tool lust...

Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 8:53 pm
by pistonbroke
No chain whip, you change gear to the lowest/biggest sprocket on the cassette, drop the wheel out and put the tool onto the lockring whilst making sure the right angle bit contacts the chainstay or seatstay then refit the wheel, pedal forwards a bit and the lockring loosens. Take the wheel out and remove the cassette. It's a bit agricultural but it works.

Re: Tool lust...

Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 9:18 pm
by fatbikephil
pistonbroke wrote:No chain whip, you change gear to the lowest/biggest sprocket on the cassette, drop the wheel out and put the tool onto the lockring whilst making sure the right angle bit contacts the chainstay or seatstay then refit the wheel, pedal forwards a bit and the lockring loosens. Take the wheel out and remove the cassette. It's a bit agricultural but it works.
Ha that over simplifies it somewhat :mrgreen: You missed the part about swearing a lot trying to manoeuvre it all into position without skinning your knuckles or trapping a finger end. I've used mine in the wilds and they are handy. I have a feeling there is another similar thing available somewhere...

Re the original post, I carry a leatherman anyway and the pliers serve just as well. No reason not to buy a bling new tool however

Re: Tool lust...

Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 9:45 pm
by techno
htrider wrote:I have a feeling there is another similar thing available somewhere...
Ta-dah: https://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b88s0p0

Re: Tool lust...

Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 9:54 pm
by Asposium
pistonbroke wrote:Image
This is a brilliantly designed tool for removing cassettes if you break a drive side spoke or the chain gets mashed into the cassette, includes spoke key. Sadly no longer available but I've got one for trips sans Rohloff.
Have straight pull spokes on my gravel wheels (DT Swiss 240 centre lock) so it should be possible to change a spoke without removing cassette or rotor.

Re: Tool lust...

Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 3:40 pm
by BigdummySteve
techno mail wrote:
htrider wrote:I have a feeling there is another similar thing available somewhere...
Ta-dah: https://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b88s0p0

Thanks for the link, a most excellent advert.

“The NBT2 is NOT suitable for use with super lightweight [stupid-liteTM] alloy racing frames, where the deraileurhanger already self destructs with normal use.
Prior to first time use it is recomended to check with conventional tools that the lockring hasn't been tightened way over the recommended torque by some hamfisted mechanic, to prevent overloading the dropout."