Looking for some recommendations for comfortable grips suitable for long rides. I've currently got ODI lock-ons but towards the end of the YD300 (which is what I mean by "long") I was starting to get numb hands. Given that this only really started at around the 280Km mark it's not as if my current grips are uncomfortable. I'm using Raceface aluminium handlebars so might get a bit more comfort with a set of carbon bars to reduce some of the "buzz".
Don't have to be lock-ons and just on standard riser bars not Jones or similar.
handlebar grips
Moderators: Bearbonesnorm, Taylor, Chew
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whitestone
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handlebar grips
Better weight than wisdom, a traveller cannot carry
Re: handlebar grips
i really rate ergon GE1's, if your running wide bars then they change the angle of our hands back round to a more natural position.
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Bearbonesnorm
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Re: handlebar grips
ESI Silicone work for me. I use the thinner 'Racers Edge' version but I'm sure 'Chunky' would offer even more comfort.
May the bridges you burn light your way
Re: handlebar grips
Lizard Skins Northshore are nice and comfy on long rides. Used them on the HT550 without any really problems of trail buzz from the rigid Ramin 1. The overall diameter of the grip is quite large but is kind of squidgy.
Re: handlebar grips
I've been trying ESI racers edge silicon grips on carbon bars and chunky ones on aluminium bars. I have only done 100km rides so can't comment over long distances. I have normally used the standard thickness ones for years, they have been good in wet conditions and they are certainly warmer than others I have used and have used them both bare and gloved hands.
The thick on alloy may be a bit to thick, I have a large size hand in most gloves. The skinny grips allow the bar to be held looser and therefore more relaxed no issues, but need to swap them over and see if they are similar on the other bars.
They have never moved on either bars but need to be put on correctly as they are thicker on the palm area. I will keep buying them.
Paul.
The thick on alloy may be a bit to thick, I have a large size hand in most gloves. The skinny grips allow the bar to be held looser and therefore more relaxed no issues, but need to swap them over and see if they are similar on the other bars.
They have never moved on either bars but need to be put on correctly as they are thicker on the palm area. I will keep buying them.
Paul.
Re: handlebar grips
Ritchey foam one, non locking are my favourite.
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whitestone
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Re: handlebar grips
Ta folks. I should have said I usually take large gloves - Endura and the like - so "chunky" isn't too much of a problem.
Better weight than wisdom, a traveller cannot carry
Re: handlebar grips
Another vote for Ergons here. They look weird but are oh so comfy. I was a die hard ODI Ruffian lock on user until I bought my wife a new bike which came with ergo grips on. After a quick ride I was blown away by how comfy they are so I started looking for some for my bike. I eventually went for Ergon GP2s which have a stubby bar end thing on the end. They work great on a fully rigid set up (although I'd probably do without the bar end bit and opt for the GP1 if I was riding with a suspension fork). It takes a few rides to set the angle of the grip just right for your personal preference but once done they're superb.
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johnnystorm
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Re: handlebar grips
I've found lifeline or superstar silicone grips to be as good as ESI grips. Slide on and stay put easily with windowlene.
Re: handlebar grips
My 2p here... /me gets on soapbox
Trail buzz will be softened to a degree by the choice of grip, but it doesn't really stop or defer the numb hands problem. You can go carbon this and carbon that and fluffy grips and such, but it isn't going to stop the buzz if you're riding offroad. With that all said, different people will succumb to vibration damage in varying amounts. Some people get it after 50 miles...some get it after 500 miles. I have a feeling (no pun intended) that after you've had one really good round of nerve damage, it comes on faster...at least in my experience it appears to be the case.
What works for me to help stave it off somewhat is changing my grip position often, and lightening up on the steering end where possible (yes - I know...it's supposed to be even on the 3 points).
For reference...I've tried a carbon front-end (Niner RDO (stiff but dampening is good) + CB Cobalt 11 bars (flexy like warm licorice)) and whilst the buzz was softened somewhat, it still didn't stop me from getting numb fingers (started with the little fingers on both sides and worked its way in) near 300 miles during TD this year. Last year, with Bonty RL bars and Fox floats, I got dead hands around 800 mile mark on the same route. I was using Bonty ergo grips both rides.
Keep in mind that badly positioned Ergons (or any other type of lumpy ergo grip) will bring on numbness immeasurably faster than normal grips due to the pressure points in your palms taking a beating. My hands hurt just thinking about that one! :)
YMMV.
/me kicks soapbox away
Greetz
S.
[Edit: badly positioned double description :-\ ]
Trail buzz will be softened to a degree by the choice of grip, but it doesn't really stop or defer the numb hands problem. You can go carbon this and carbon that and fluffy grips and such, but it isn't going to stop the buzz if you're riding offroad. With that all said, different people will succumb to vibration damage in varying amounts. Some people get it after 50 miles...some get it after 500 miles. I have a feeling (no pun intended) that after you've had one really good round of nerve damage, it comes on faster...at least in my experience it appears to be the case.
What works for me to help stave it off somewhat is changing my grip position often, and lightening up on the steering end where possible (yes - I know...it's supposed to be even on the 3 points).
For reference...I've tried a carbon front-end (Niner RDO (stiff but dampening is good) + CB Cobalt 11 bars (flexy like warm licorice)) and whilst the buzz was softened somewhat, it still didn't stop me from getting numb fingers (started with the little fingers on both sides and worked its way in) near 300 miles during TD this year. Last year, with Bonty RL bars and Fox floats, I got dead hands around 800 mile mark on the same route. I was using Bonty ergo grips both rides.
Keep in mind that badly positioned Ergons (or any other type of lumpy ergo grip) will bring on numbness immeasurably faster than normal grips due to the pressure points in your palms taking a beating. My hands hurt just thinking about that one! :)
YMMV.
/me kicks soapbox away
Greetz
S.
[Edit: badly positioned double description :-\ ]
Last edited by Scattamah on Tue Dec 22, 2015 12:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: handlebar grips
Picks up Scots soapbox......
Also try reducing you front tyre pressure by 5psi to take away some buzz
Increase the height of your bars to move weight away from your hands
Try bars with more sweep so you can get a more relaxed hand position
Also try reducing you front tyre pressure by 5psi to take away some buzz
Increase the height of your bars to move weight away from your hands
Try bars with more sweep so you can get a more relaxed hand position
Re: handlebar grips
My two pence worth.
Certain grips are better than others to prevent nubness. But I find my grip pressure and position just as important to prevent sore or numb hands. I find a good pair of gloves that work with your grips goes a long way. Slippy grips make you grip harder, sweat and rain don't help your grip pressure. Poorly positioned and adjusted break levers also. Breaks are ment to be used with one finger, Leaving three on. Two on the brakes makes you grip harder with the last two weak finger really hard. The angle of the breaks as well. If you have flat angled breaks and you rest a finger on the lever on a long down hill your wrist will be rolled. If the levers are pointed down your wrist will be arched. All contributing to hand pressure in certain spots re the than spread out. If you are resting your finger on the break and your finger has to over extend to do so it will put your hand in a weak position and so you will have to grip harder. Harder you grip more pressure and fatigue.
There are plenty of other things that can affect it as well. Seat angle, reach etc etc
Certain grips are better than others to prevent nubness. But I find my grip pressure and position just as important to prevent sore or numb hands. I find a good pair of gloves that work with your grips goes a long way. Slippy grips make you grip harder, sweat and rain don't help your grip pressure. Poorly positioned and adjusted break levers also. Breaks are ment to be used with one finger, Leaving three on. Two on the brakes makes you grip harder with the last two weak finger really hard. The angle of the breaks as well. If you have flat angled breaks and you rest a finger on the lever on a long down hill your wrist will be rolled. If the levers are pointed down your wrist will be arched. All contributing to hand pressure in certain spots re the than spread out. If you are resting your finger on the break and your finger has to over extend to do so it will put your hand in a weak position and so you will have to grip harder. Harder you grip more pressure and fatigue.
There are plenty of other things that can affect it as well. Seat angle, reach etc etc
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whitestone
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Re: handlebar grips
I suspect that after 300Km the tyre pressure might have dropped by that amount 
With my current forks there's no stack to play with - might be able to get a stem with a greater rise though. I've got a set of On-One Marys that I keep meaning to try out though I'd rather have some drier conditions to get going - I got them as a cheap way to see if I would got on with Jones bars.
Brakes are set up correctly for one finger use. Reach probably not an issue as I don't get back ache which can be an indicator that the reach is wrong. One thing I forgot (actually more of an attempt to expunge it from memory
) was that I was quite saddle sore, in fact my a**e was one that only a baboon could love 
so I might have had more weight on my hands than I otherwise would.
With my current forks there's no stack to play with - might be able to get a stem with a greater rise though. I've got a set of On-One Marys that I keep meaning to try out though I'd rather have some drier conditions to get going - I got them as a cheap way to see if I would got on with Jones bars.Brakes are set up correctly for one finger use. Reach probably not an issue as I don't get back ache which can be an indicator that the reach is wrong. One thing I forgot (actually more of an attempt to expunge it from memory
) was that I was quite saddle sore, in fact my a**e was one that only a baboon could love so I might have had more weight on my hands than I otherwise would.Better weight than wisdom, a traveller cannot carry
Re: handlebar grips
Pretty much what I would have said.Bearbonesnorm wrote:ESI Silicone work for me. I use the thinner 'Racers Edge' version but I'm sure 'Chunky' would offer even more comfort.
Re: handlebar grips
I've only once had buzz so bad I had to do something about it...Chew wrote:Picks up Scots soapbox......
Also try reducing you front tyre pressure by 5psi to take away some buzz
I'd changed tyres and pumped up to same normal tyre pressures I'm used to, and it took me a while to work out that it was the new tyre at that pressure causing my white knuckle. Let some air out of the front tyre and I was cured! This was on the full sus bike too.