Off Topic - siezed, rusted, possibly double threaded, sheared bolt extraction advice!

[Lazarus]

£150... erm, no thanks

Its about 2 mins work, granted they need to get there and set up but still its a firm no from me.
If the above fails is it possible to drill it out bigger and then tap that hole (obvs need to drill whatever the bolt passes through)

[Wotsits]

You might have been better off removing the hub & taking it to a workshop to be welded.

As Phil said, be very careful with easy-outs & taps, they’re really hard, but snap like a carrot Try to use a t-handle instead of something like a shifter & don’t try to force it. Get some heat on-it to break the bond & when cooler, plenty of plus-gas..

I have a 14mm x 1.5 ‘thread runner’ I could lend you if you manage to get it out without too much damage..

[redefined_cycles]

Shaff - get a dremel (cheapo ebay copy in any case) and try to grind out as much of the bolt as you can before have a go with a tap. In fact if you are careful and very patient, you might be able to get enough out to pick the threads of the bolt out without tapping - even if you can get the first bit out, that will give some threads for the tap to start on. Be very careful with the tap - if it shears you are totally screwed!

So glad you mentioned that Phil. I actually ordered this from Screwfix for my Dremel (yes, it's not the first time I've had to deal with stripped bolts, but bikes are easy peasy) https://www.screwfix.com/p/dremel-952-g ... pack/65026 but then speaking to thw Mini Restoration chap he said I was overthinking and the tap would take (so long as I used the correct drill bit first which in my case is a 12.8 I think).

Might hold off ordering a tap set then (from Tracy Tools who do quality refurbs apparently https://www.tracytools.com/product-cate ... -and-dies/) and get to work with my Dremel tomoz

So exciting. £150... Even the Mini/ex mobile welder chap said it was a p take!

[redefined_cycles]

You might have been better off removing the hub & taking it to a workshop to be welded.

Thanks Wotsits. Removing all thatbis probably above my pay grade. Last time me and my mate did my driver shafts on something with less vintage, I was glad we'd managed to the other side. Brake work is (relatively) easy as long as you don't break the bloomin bolt

[redefined_cycles]

If the above fails is it possible to drill it out bigger and then tap that hole (obvs need to drill whatever the bolt passes through)

Lets not think about that just yet. Just seen a YT vis mentioning remaking a hole with JB Weld

Hoping none of that would be needed.

[redefined_cycles]

. Be very careful with the tap - if it shears you are totally screwed!

Thanks Phil. I'll stop watching tap/die/rethread vids for now then.

[Bearbonesnorm]

Be careful Shaf as your hole looks somewhat on the piss, so you'll still need to entirely remove what remains of the bolt (or just about) before trying to re-tap it ... if not you're hanger won't line up with your new hole.

[Lazarus]

Good spot. Wonder if you can cold chisel out the bottom bit (. Thinest bit") and the same with what is left

I suspect you will damage some.thread, whatever you try, but if its localised you *MAY* get away with and it will still take the bolt.

* might be too much metal left at the moment so I woild be dremmel grinding it all thinner/ bigger whole

[fatbikephil]

So glad you mentioned that Phil. I actually ordered this from Screwfix for my Dremel (yes, it's not the first time I've had to deal with stripped bolts, but bikes are easy peasy) https://www.screwfix.com/p/dremel-952-g ... pack/65026 but then speaking to thw Mini Restoration chap he said I was overthinking and the tap would take (so long as I used the correct drill bit first which in my case is a 12.8 I think).

Might hold off ordering a tap set then (from Tracy Tools who do quality refurbs apparently https://www.tracytools.com/product-cate ... -and-dies/) and get to work with my Dremel tomoz

So exciting. £150... Even the Mini/ex mobile welder chap said it was a p take!

You can't really overthink stuff like that - if you can take more metal with the dremel and square the hole up a bit, the tap will go in easier. With plenty of light and good eyesight you should be able to grind away until the top of the threads become visible. (Also fan of tracy tools, buy all my taps and dies there.)

My recent experience of this was an M8 bolt in a cast steel exhaust clamp - pretty much corroded solid. Drilled, dremeled, chipped out some of the thread, tapped, sorted. A helicoil is another option if you totally gash the thread but will be pricy at that size.

[redefined_cycles]

Be careful Shaf as your hole looks somewhat on the piss, so you'll still need to entirely remove what remains of the bolt (or just about) before trying to re-tap it ... if not you're hanger won't line up with your new hole.

Yes... It is slighlty off centre and hence why I was trying best to keep drilling to one side towards the end. Thanks for the reminder which I'd already worried about

[redefined_cycles]

Thanks again all for the advice. Measure twice, cut once. In this case I'm trying to just keep thinking about all the various 'chess moves' available and repercussions. If only that chap with the welder and exp to go with it didn't think he could take the wee with people in a stickle like this.

I'd have happily given him £50 or even £70 for the trouble and it being a sticky situation. But £150, rather scrap the car on principal or did I already say that.

[Cyclepeasant]

Probably a bit late to suggest shocking the bolt. This method is best tried before snapping the hexagon head off,but, I have managed to slowly pin punch or make a tiny chisel with an old screwdriver to slowly tap the bolt shaft and rotate it out of the hole.
Put something underneath the bracket where the bolt is to support the assembly,(a block of wood or metal)
Then using a 8-10mm diameter pin punch and club hammer hit the exposed part of the broken bolt to shock it and it may crack the corrosion/galling.
If this fails. The last resort is as others have suggested , carefully drill hole centrally as possible and increase drill size until the threads are exposed and pick them out with a sharp tool like a scribe or a sharpened spoke. It's time consuming but usually successful with patience.

[redefined_cycles]

Thanks Cycle peasant. Yes, a spoke was on the cards for the morning but had never thought of sharpening it. Also, there's them proper screwdriver head with a sharp curved end - wonder what they're called.

Lots of schocks already used as was a cold chisel to try n rotate it out. I also have the circlip pliers for picking at the shards. Will see how I get on, thanks again.

[Bearbonesnorm]

I agree that initially £150 might seem a lot but perhaps less so when you consider how much time and effort has thus far gone into not removing it

[redefined_cycles]

I'll be honest Stu. At the time I only had £150 to my name for the week. It's not that it seemed too expensive, but rather daylight robbery. I did'nt tell the chap he was taking the p, byt rather that I couldn't afford...

Since then I think I've spent £21 + £8 in drill bits of which at least 80% are still in service; £20 in lubes/cuttimg oils; £6 in a dremel bit; £3 in nut extractor set and £0 in losing my dignity (or as some would say, 'dropping my pants'. Forget these c**ts who think they can profit exponentially on other peoples predicaments.

Rather spend that £150 (or more) having it trucked/towed away to a garage

[Lazarus]

The guy is not there for 20 mins or 10 if he rushes and 8 of those are setting up and putting away
Buying a second hand welder would be cheaper .

[Hyppy]

I'll be honest Stu. At the time I only had £150 to my name for the week. It's not that it seemed too expensive, but rather daylight robbery. I did'nt tell the chap he was taking the p, byt rather that I couldn't afford...

Since then I think I've spent £21 + £8 in drill bits of which at least 80% are still in service; £20 in lubes/cuttimg oils; £6 in a dremel bit; £3 in nut extractor set and £0 in losing my dignity (or as some would say, 'dropping my pants'. Forget these c**ts who think they can profit exponentially on other peoples predicaments.

Rather spend that £150 (or more) having it trucked/towed away to a garage

Is it wrong to wake up wondering about another man's sheared bolt?

I reckon this thread has cost me more then £150 in time spent lost down a YouTube wormhole as the nut-welding videos led me to how they make ship's anchor chains to a bowling ball factory to oh for the love of god, where has the morning gone … 

[redefined_cycles]

sorry

[whitestone]

One way to look at the cost is how many hours at *your* pay rate would you spend on it. A rough estimate is your annual salary in thousands divided by 20 so £30k = £15/hr.

Of course you need to factor in whether you can do the job in the first place or if you want to do it - there are jobs I can do to a decent standard but really don't like doing them so am prepared to pay someone else to do them. I can arc and gas weld but don't have the kit so it's just way easier to pay someone to do it.

What someone charges is a mixture of what it costs them (kit, time to do the job, covering for slack times), the benefit to you and what the market can stand. I could try and charge £200/hr for dry stone walling but no-one is going to take me on at that rate! It's why builders' quotes are often close - the job takes X material and Y hours therefore it costs Z. Time can be a factor as well: an emergency plumber (another job I hate doing) costs way more than your standard plumber. Etc.

[Dave Barter]

Unpopular opinion but it’s probably 1.5 hours in total sunk time for the welder to get to you, set up, weld and pack away. £100 an hour for skilled labour ready immediately doesn’t seem too harsh to me. And he’s factored risk in as well.

[whitestone]

As Dave says, the guy is also taking the risk that he doesn't wreck the surrounding material. If the guy is good then that's unlikely but he still has to factor it in to his pricing.

I just did a search for "uk bike shop labour charges" and got figures from £40/hr up to £65/hr (that was in London). Things cost a lot more than you might think.

[redefined_cycles]

Unpopular opinion but it’s probably 1.5 hours in total sunk time for the welder to get to you, set up, weld and pack away. £100 an hour for skilled labour ready immediately doesn’t seem too harsh to me. And he’s factored risk in as well.

Nah. Not unpopular at all and appreciated. I did ask the Mini restoration guy who is the other mobile welder on google local to me. He said it was taking the p at £150. So am still happy I never went that option

[redefined_cycles]

Uncool post deleted.

[Lazarus]

£100 an hour for skilled labour

We live in very different worlds if you think £100 an hour is a reasonable hourly wage for any human beimg to earn. ( shaf is a nurse and is nowhere near that for example nor is a teacher etc or indeed almost anyone working.

[whitestone]

£100 an hour for skilled labour

We live in very different worlds if you think £100 an hour is a reasonable hourly wage for any human beimg to earn. ( shaf is a nurse and is nowhere near that for example nor is a teacher etc or indeed almost anyone working.

Remember that this isn't a full time rate, it covers all the hours where he isn't working, so he might only have 50% booked/earning. He might only want to work one day a week, etc.

There's another option and one that I've used when I've been asked to quote for jobs - you don't want the job for whatever reason (it's in a bad part of town, the owner has alpacas and you're allergic to them), so you quote something silly.