Tyre Patches

[dlovett]

What brand do you recommend for use on the inside os a tubeless tyre, that will contain sealant? Was about to order some Park Tools ones, but noticed they say not for use with tubeless.

I was planning to glue it on with Shoo goo once I've stitched the flap closed.

TIA

[fatbikephil]

I use either car tyre patch plugs (sort of look like a mushroom with a bit of wire sticking out of them) for big holes or motorcycle tube patches - basically big remo / tip top style ones - for smaller holes. I stick them with normal vulcanising glue, just spend a bit of time cleaning all the sealant of the inside off the tyre and sand it ahead of sticking the patch down. Works fine. You can superglue them as well. For bigger tears I've superglued a bit of old road tyre over the split.

[riderdown]

I've just used cheap fleabay standard inner tube ones


As above cleaning and roughing the tyre is important

[Leerowe76]

I'd second using the car / tip top style with the wire on the end only because a mate is a tyre fitter and I have unlimited supply not needed that many tbh tho but they work well if the tyres had a good clean up before hand, I've also used normal bike tube patches too on smaller holes to get the life out the tyre

[Asposium]

After research bought these to test

Keep meaning to repair said tyre

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161454987969

Same seller also sells "blue cement"

[fatbikephil]

I've used them on a few tyre holes - seem to work very well.

[Hyppy]

I've been using similar mushroom plugs and Rema Tip Top SC-BL blue cement and they work well, but to hijack this thread a little, I've a question for others that use similar: Do you ream/drill out any hole to match the plug diameter or just pull it through as-is? I've been doing the latter and so ending up with a wobble in tyres' tread. No biggie performance-wise, but have been wondering what others do. 

[fatbikephil]

I just haul it through whatever hole is there. The last one was a pinch puncture with a 4mm slit - seemed to work fine and the tyre won't last much longer anyway.

[dlovett]

Well after some finger stabbing, I have managed to stitch the nice flap on my Venture closed. It must be a record for me, not even 450km on it and I ripped a bit hole in it. I've coated the inside and outside stitching in gue, left it to dry and now glues a car tyre patch on the inside. I manages to shape it so it follows the curve of the tyre and shouldn't effect it I hope. Just got to wait for the. glue to dry and hopefully tomorrow I can fit it an pressure test it to see if it has all worked. Fingers crossed!!

[dlovett]

On the outside hopefully the stitching will be protected by the glue, any other suggestions of anything I can do to help it's longevity?

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[Alpinum]

Perhaps don't use it as a front tyre..?
If the cut was long, keep an eye on it. If it doesn't bulge on the first bunch of hours riding, I'd probably relax and keep on using it as if nothing ever happened.

I strongly recommend using the horizontal mattress stitch

[dlovett]

Yep it’s the back tyre, will leave it under pressure for the weekend and see how it looks Monday for a ride.

It’s so annoying as it’s been about 7-8 years since I had a tyre that didn’t seal with worms and this would have to be a basically new tyre getting damaged on a non technical piece of path.

[Alpinum]

I feel for you.

Last... probably 10 months were rather quiet. Had perhaps 2 punctures/cuts I could fix within a minute and forget.
Then within 2 weeks 3 cuts, all bad enough they needed a spare tube or sewing (at home). Of course I had forgotten to pack patches since I rarely need them.

On the flip side; I rode a really rough but fast mountain path last Saturday. One I often collected pinch flats (mostly rear), even with 1.7 - 1.8 bar, hookless rim and chunky 1250 g tyre.
This time though I was on a similar frame (newer model, shorter rear, longer front, slacker HTA, but very similar rear suspension), same rim, same tyre tread but the lighter version (1080 g) and a ca. 60 g pool noodle (Tubolight EVO SL). I started the descent at 2891 m.a.s.l. with 1.6 bar, which will have been quite a bit less in said section (which is between 1000 m and 670 m.a.s.l.). No dings, no pinch flats. Just poised speed and control

[benp1]

I literally do exactly as per fatbikephil - clean area, key it to help with adhesion, normal rubber glue for inner tube patches, mushroom plugs with the metal spike on the end

Has held up very well

[dlovett]

I literally do exactly as per fatbikephil - clean area, key it to help with adhesion, normal rubber glue for inner tube patches, mushroom plugs with the metal spike on the end

Has held up very well

I did try that but it started to push out and I didn't want to risk the split becoming bigger.

[dlovett]

I feel for you.

Last... probably 10 months were rather quiet. Had perhaps 2 punctures/cuts I could fix within a minute and forget.
Then within 2 weeks 3 cuts, all bad enough they needed a spare tube or sewing (at home). Of course I had forgotten to pack patches since I rarely need them.

On the flip side; I rode a really rough but fast mountain path last Saturday. One I often collected pinch flats (mostly rear), even with 1.7 - 1.8 bar, hookless rim and chunky 1250 g tyre.
This time though I was on a similar frame (newer model, shorter rear, longer front, slacker HTA, but very similar rear suspension), same rim, same tyre tread but the lighter version (1080 g) and a ca. 60 g pool noodle (Tubolight EVO SL). I started the descent at 2891 m.a.s.l. with 1.6 bar, which will have been quite a bit less in said section (which is between 1000 m and 670 m.a.s.l.). No dings, no pinch flats. Just poised speed and control

I'm thinking the pool noodle might well help the Venture's longer term survival. Need to find one, I had one the other week but now it's vanished!!

[benp1]

I literally do exactly as per fatbikephil - clean area, key it to help with adhesion, normal rubber glue for inner tube patches, mushroom plugs with the metal spike on the end

Has held up very well

I did try that but it started to push out and I didn't want to risk the split becoming bigger.

When you say try it, are you able to be more specific? The mushrooms I have are pretty large, maybe 3cm across, so just trying to picture how it would push out. I guess it goes depend on how long the split is

[dlovett]

I literally do exactly as per fatbikephil - clean area, key it to help with adhesion, normal rubber glue for inner tube patches, mushroom plugs with the metal spike on the end

Has held up very well

I did try that but it started to push out and I didn't want to risk the split becoming bigger.

When you say try it, are you able to be more specific? The mushrooms I have are pretty large, maybe 3cm across, so just trying to picture how it would push out. I guess it goes depend on how long the split is

With glue and heavy duty patches, not mushrooms. It's Basically a c shaped flap, so I've had to stitch 3 sides closed. With the patch it just popped open and the patch started to come through. I don't think any other way would actually work as a permanent fix.

[dlovett]

It’s back on a wheel and at the tyre max pressure of 50psi. So far no bulge, will see how it looks at the end of the weekend. If it’s all good then I can refit it the correct direction and fill it full or Sealant.

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[Jurassic]

When I've had a large hole to repair I've always put a tube in and ridden it like that for a week after my repair. My logic is that the tube would pressurise the repair from the inside and force the patch onto the tyre. I've never had one fail after doing this. Just for info, I've also successfully used a Park self adhesive patch to repair a small hole on a tubeless tyre. I did it as a quick fix with the intention of gluing a normal patch on later but I never got round to it and the Park patch is still holding now (did the inner tube trick to smush it onto the tyre as normal). As others have said preparing the surface of the repair is the key I reckon, rough up the surface a bit and get it really clean using brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol before trying to patch it.

[dlovett]

It did go down and there seemed to be some pin holes of air coming out round it, perhaps the glue didn't fill the thread holes?? Anyway I refitted it the correct direction and added some stan's race and it seems fine now, no loss of pressure, no bulge in the tread and no sign of sealant leaking through it. I'm taking it out for a spin on road today to fully check it's ok. Fingers crossed as I have my first Audax on Sunday.

40km of road and gravel and several days later, it's not lost any air or bulged in anyway so I am happy it's a permanent fix.

[dlovett]

another 200km's or so on it and no probs.

I'm going to call it fixed now.

[dlovett]

After another 300km's on it there is the sign of a bulge starting again. It seems fine to ride, I cannot feel it or hear it even on perfect tarmac and it isn't loosing any air. I was thinking about removing the patches from the inside, restitching the flap, stitching in a piece of slick tyre on the inside to give a larger area to spread the load over the damaged part. Then glue it all up again and cover with another patch on the inside. Not sure if this is overkill or I shouldn't worry about the bulge, or bite the bullet and just buy a new tyre, now I have had almost 900km out of it (450 pre flint strike, 450 post repair).

If I repair, does anybody have a piece of old slick tyre they could send me please?

TIA

[Lazarus]

Probably will check ( front tyre is pretty close to end of life )

[dlovett]

Probably will check ( front tyre is pretty close to end of life )

That would be great thanks, just a couple of inches worth of tyre would be great. Not being a total cheapskate, the replacement tyre is £47, compared to the £20 when I bought them three odd months ago. Considering the last couple of sets have all done several thousand km's I want to try to fix this one.