Tubeless - your ritual

[Dave Barter]

I just wondered what process other go through when setting up tubeless for the first time.

I normally fit the tyre, add sealant and then try and seat/seal in one go. This went wrong the other day as the tyres would not seat which took a massive wrestle and then I found they had holes. So I wondered whether I shouldn't try and seat first, then add sealant and seal. The PITA here is that the valves I was using do not have removable cores. But it means I can use a tube in the worst case scenario to seat.

To help with seating I've bought a tubeless inflator which I can get to 160psi from my track pump. I got it cheap using rewards so hopefully it will be a decent investment.

It's round two with a new set of tyres later this week, so any tips/advice appreciated.

[Lazarus]

Never add the sealant but sometimes it's in there as I am swapping tyres over ( last time was due to breaking a rim I don't do this as rule/I try to avoid it )

Fit tyre .
Use fire extinguisher (9 litre at 120psi)
Await popping sound of beading.

See if it stays up ( or I can hear a leak) .
Fix this if say a valve or serious
if it stays up for a few mins add fluid inflate with track pump or extinguisher if I have to
Shake and spin
Pray
Check

If it leaks slowly fill bath and find the leak - often used tyres fail at the bead due to stuck Stan's residue so remove with scalpel and or sandpaper

I also engage is a bit of swearing and avoid continental tyres

[pistonbroke]

Step 1, remove tyre from folded up state and leave for a bit to form into it's proper shape to straighten any sharp folds in the bead.
Step2, rub IPA (not Indian Pale Ale) on the inner surface with something abrasive like wire wool or pan scourer to remove silicone release agent used my manufacturer, this helps the sealant to permeate any pin holes on the new tyre.
Step 3, assuming the wheel has been used for tubeless on the previous tyre, give the valve a good clean to remove any clogged sealant which impairs air flow. Clearly easier done with removable core valves but not impossible. Check valve is properly seated on the rim and tape is in good nick.
Step 4 mount the tyre and hang up so there aren't any flat spots caused by sitting on the ground.
Step 5 blast as much air in as the equipment you've got allows to seat the bead. Check for obvious leaks.
Step 6 remove valve or carefully ease the bead off in a small section to add sealant.
Step 7 Inflate to about 3 bar and leave laid horizontally and level to allow sealant to pool in the side wall, turning over periodically.
Step 8 Go for a ride to centrifuge sealant around.
If it deflates after all this, you've either bought a Continental tyre or very unlucky

[Bearbonesnorm]

I tend to adopt an all or nothing, death or glory approach. This means adding sealant just before the final couple of inches of tyre are fitted. I then give the tyre some pulling and prodding to try and get it as centred on the rim as possible. I then fire up my compressor and hit it with some air. Generally, it'll bite and begin to inflate but if not, I usually reposition the tyre on the rim and try again.

If I'm fitting WTB tyres to WTB rims, I just use a track pump.

[faustus]

As a recent convert I do the following, which has worked with gravel and mtb tyres, but I do find it better with removable cores and injecting sealant. Probably not the quickest way, but ensures good seating and no mess with sealant!

- make sure rim tape is tight, secure, correct width!
- seat tyre and try to pull it as close to the bead seat all the way round, so the air has less to do to push and lock on, usually end up with a small tight section that won't get close, but that's where most air will end up and far fewer big gaps to loose air round the rest of the tyre
- blast with inflator until it all/mostly pops (with valve core out), whip off inflator head and hold valve with thumb, listen for leaks. Any leaks in tyre can be dealt with here with a patch or worm.
- let air go and put core in, pump with track pump or any remaining in inflator, pump to near max pressure on tyre to make it all pop if needed. Often I leave it to see if it'll hold a bit of air, tyres with residues will often stay inflated pretty well. Then I let air out again and remove core and fill with a measure of sealant, plus a good bit extra for good coverage - always shaking bottle before use and putting injector near the bottom so you get a decent amount of glitter/blocking material.
- pump to pressure and spin/shake/dance
-Done

Might seem like more inflating than necessary, but it's easier than having to re-seat or remove the tyre. If it doesn't seat with the first time on the inflator then i'll seat one side of the bead with a tube, i've only had to do that with a gravel tyre so far - mtb has been really easy for me so far. Injector with tube (think it was a planet x job) can also be used to (ahem) suck the jizz out again and re-use, leaving not much to clean up.

EDIT - yep, any of this with a compressor would be much easier!

[rufus748]

Normally I'd put the tyre on the rim remove valve inner, then inflate to seal first before adding sealant otherwise when using the inflator you can end up wearing most of the sealant (been there, done that).
Then pump the sealant in through the valve, refit valve inner and reinflate.
Appreciate you can't do that as you don't have removable valves, so pop a small area of tyre off one side of the rim opposite the valve, poor in the sealant and reinflate. The downside of not having removable cores is you can't get air in from the inflator as fast so stop being a tight arse and buy some.
Some of my tyres seal easily with just a track pump. Others take many hours of swearing which is usually solved by putting a tube in, inflating to seal the tyre. Deflate tube, push off one side of the rim and remove tube. Reinflate with the side of the tyre you've removed facing the floor (gravity helps pull the tyre towards the rim). Then deflate, push off a small area of tyre, poor in sealant etc...
Don't forget to leave the track pump attached to the inflator when you attach it to the valve because if it doesn't quite seal you can pump through the canister which I find is often enough to get a seal rather than lose all the air and have to start again.
Don't forget to film it and post it up, we haven't had a sweary Dave rant down for a while now.

[ton]

firstly i tape rims with gorrilla tape x 2.
fit valves
fit tyres dry with no sealant.
inflate tyres to 50 psi to pop completely onto rim.
deflate tyre with bike in stand.
remove smallest amount of tyre from rim with a tyre tool.
place sealant in and reseat tyre,
rotate wheels a few times and inflate to required pressure.

sofar been very lucky with this way of doing it. no leakage, no airloss really either.

[voodoo_simon]

Bontrager rim and tyres

Pop tyre on and with an inch or two spare, drizzle in the Bontrager sealant

Finish putting tyre on

Track pump up to 40PSI and waits for tyres to pop a few times

Let down tyres to desired pressure before next ride.

Straight forward with Bontrager stuff

WTB on the other hand…

[Cheeky Monkey]

Three things that make tubeless easier IME:

1) Warm up the tyre. Cold tyres from the garage / shed / outbuilding are a PITA IMO and seem to lead to problems.

2) A bit of soapy-solution on rim and bead if it doesn't seat easily / first time.

3) Removable core valves and a syringe with some tube on it to ease faffing with sealant.

[whitestone]

Unwrap tyre and leave a while somewhere warm, preferably overnight.
Tape rims. I use Gorilla Tape but if you've got the proper stuff then...
Make tiny hole in rim tape for valve,
Push valve through hole (inside to outside ) and fix.
Remove core from valve.
Fit tyre
Inflate tyre - we've an Airshot so relatively simple. Make sure tyre is seated evenly then remove pump/Airshot
Add sealant
Reinflate tyre
Put wheel back on bike, go for a ride.

That *usually* works but tubeless can be an all or nothing affair, I've fitted tyres that have stayed inflated without sealant but the same tyre on the same rim wouldn't stay up for five minutes. Generally it's a bit like plumbing: cleanliness and attention to detail will deal with most things. Usually it's not doing the taping correctly/accurately enough that's the problem.

[Lazarus]

I am not personally a fan of gorilla tape as i have had it fail [ second hand wheel] and its a mare to remove it and the sticky residue it leaves if you ever need to retape it

Also the tessa tape is dirt cheap on ebay

[Alpinum]

I am not personally a fan of gorilla tape as i have had it fail [ second hand wheel] and its a mare to remove it and the sticky residue it leaves if you ever need to retape it

Also the tessa tape is dirt cheap on ebay

This

I normally fit the tyre, add sealant and then try and seat/seal in one go

Same here since 2012. I add sealant with about 1/3 of the one side of the tyre open, close it, inflate, plop-plop, shake, back on bike and done. I hardly ever have an issue with this procedure, so not bothered in changing it.

[fatbikephil]

If you are struggling to get the tyre to seat, stretch a road bike inner tube round the crown of the tyre. Will squash it into the rim and makes seating it much easier. Never fails for me, even on fat bike tyres not designed to be tubeless.

[Dave Barter]

If you are struggling to get the tyre to seat, stretch a road bike inner tube round the crown of the tyre. Will squash it into the rim and makes seating it much easier. Never fails for me, even on fat bike tyres not designed to be tubeless.

Tip of the century

[Leerowe76]

Normally soapy water on the bead of new rubber basically a dry run get the tyre on and inflated, once happy deflate tyre pop a small portion off add sealant over inflate to make sure bead is on all the way round on both sides give a good shake all round, couple a minutes on each side deflate to desired pressure and go ride said bike. Also when getting new rubber I give the inside a wipe out with acetone, it flashes off real quick so no damage can be done just takes the oily finish from the carcass. This has worked for me every time

[Bearlegged]

Got quite excited* by Phil's tip**, but then found myself wondering if I actually have a spare inner tube in the house.

*it's all relative
**[Kenneth_Graham.jpg]

[Cheeky Monkey]

I use a luggage strap for roof racks (cam buckle jobbie). Any long enough strap is usually ok.

[Lazarus]

Also used that luggage strap solution
Was a continental tyre and did not stay up beyond a day even once "done"

[Shewie]

- clean rim with alcohol
- tape rim
- insert valve
- tyre on
- inflate and check if it holds
- fill tyre with jìzz using syringe into valve
- go for a spin
- job done

[PaulB2]

* Get bike out of garage
* Take bike to bike shop
* Pick it up two days later

[woodsmith]

Remove old tyre and salvage what sealant I can cos I'm a cheapskate.
Remove valve core and clean out any sealant residue.
Clean rim with soapy water.
Fit new tyre after its been sitting in the sun for a bit.
Mist both beads with soapy water.
Inflate with track pump.
If the bugger won't go up remove valve, fit tube, inflate until tyre is seated and leave for a couple of hours/overnight.
Break bead on one side, remove tube, fit valve, inflate, inject sealant through valve, refit valve core. Inflate. Job done.
Never yet had to resort to a compressor or tubeless inflator. Only ever tried 27.5 x 2.8 / 3.0 tyres. Are skinnier tyres more difficult?

[Lazarus]

My 2.8 were the easiest i ever did and the only one i have ever done with a track pump and IME it can be anything from as easy as blowing up a tyre to a week long struggle[ you are using continental tyres ]
MY road tyres leaked for about 3 months before finally holding air [ at 80 psi though] but slowly over say a few weeks rather than would not go tubeless

[Dave Barter]

Today we got one seated and sealed (road tyres)

The other kept blowing through the tape. We tried proper muc off tubeless tape which was useless and electrical tape which worked…then blew on second inflation. Looks like there is something on the rim preventing adhesion so we’re religiously cleaning then trying again.

However, using the inflator is a revelation. Never going back to just track pump

[pistonbroke]

Given it's road rims, it's not something daft like them being deep section with tiny drain holes in the section that are leaking air from the rim bed?

[Dave Barter]

Given it's road rims, it's not something daft like them being deep section with tiny drain holes in the section that are leaking air from the rim bed?

Yes it's these https://www.fulcrumwheels.com/en/suppor ... ing-800-db

But they are stated as tubeless ready and we've gone 3 times round with tape