Evolution of sports

[voodoo_simon]

Took about a 15 year break from indoor bouldering (bar a couple of months a few years back), got me thinking about how the indoor gyms have changed.

Before
-crash matts made from old beds with a covering on
-dirty coffee cups and a mars bar for a snack
-no changing rooms and something that resembles a toilet
-96% populated by blokes
-topless climbing

Now
-flat whites and vegan food on offer
-spotless changing rooms/toilets and they even have moisturiser
-almost even mix of genders* (the balance can tip either way )
-no topless climbing
-pride/women/beginner/yoga nights on each week
-sections for children

All good changes for the better I would say, the owner(s) have done a top job


*hopefully that’s the right term

[gairym]

Last time I climbed (indoors or out) was around 2007 (so fifteen years ago) at the Castle, Finsbury Park in that there London.

Your recent description seems to fit with my memory of the experience perfectly.

Maybe you're more accurately explaining how long it takes things to filter oop North from more civilised climes???

[ledburner]

Last time I climbed (indoors or out) was around 2007 (so fifteen years ago) at the Castle, Finsbury Park in that there London.

Your recent description seems to fit with my memory of the experience perfectly.

Maybe you're more accurately explaining how long it takes things to filter oop North from more civilised climes???

Here in West Yorkshire Southern progress has influenced the local bouldering Gym. Lots of cakes & chocolate, fresh coffee & lattés. & clean changing room.

Routes set in American V hueco grades not French grades.

That southern progress from Sheffield, South Yorkshire.

[Rob S]

Indoor climbing used to be something you did when nothing outside was dry, or a mad couple of hours after work mid-week. A lot of people now just climb indoors with no interest in the outdoors at all. Like the indoor cyclists there's nothing wrong with it, I just wonder what has happened to their sense of adventure. The wonder of, what's around the next corner?

[ledburner]

Indoor climbing used to be something you did when nothing outside was dry, or a mad couple of hours after work mid-week. A lot of people now just climb indoors with no interest in the outdoors at all. Like the indoor cyclists there's nothing wrong with it, I just wonder what has happened to their sense of adventure. The wonder of, what's around the next corner?

On my case, the network of mates to go outside with has ebbed away & I work opposite hours to them. its also on my doorstep & very convenient.... the local grit always seems to be damp or green

[Bearbonesnorm]

I'm not sure if 'evolution' in its true sense is the correct description as it implies a wholesale change. In reality, it seems that over time some sports sub-divide with the off-shoots eventually morphing into something entirely new. Old school climbers are still doing what they've always done as are cyclists but taking those pursuits indoors can ultimately change them into something very different bar a common name.

[voodoo_simon]

Last time I climbed (indoors or out) was around 2007 (so fifteen years ago) at the Castle, Finsbury Park in that there London.

Your recent description seems to fit with my memory of the experience perfectly.

Maybe you're more accurately explaining how long it takes things to filter oop North from more civilised climes???

Maybe I just remember the two worst ones I used to frequent! I was thinking of bouldering venues for one of them, so that’s definitely a niche within a niche sport. One other venue had ropes that were too short to tie into, so
I had to go onto tip toes to do so…

Some of the cosmopolitan venues were better though than my above descriptions but they used to be a once every blue moon visit and the facilities still weren’t as good as they are now.

I'm not sure if 'evolution' in its true sense is the correct description as it implies a wholesale change. In reality, it seems that over time some sports sub-divide with the off-shoots eventually morphing into something entirely new. Old school climbers are still doing what they've always done as are cyclists but taking those pursuits indoors can ultimately change them into something very different bar a common name.

Sports dividing into off shoots reminds me of gravel bikes, seems to have captured the public attention quite well* It’s certainly easier for the climbing/bouldering wall to instigate the changes than a group of people that go out with the same group week in and week out and it’s then easier for the public to tap into the new resources.

You are right though Stu, ‘evolution’ isn’t quite the right term but I’m not very wordy Would I have taken my wife and daughter to the old venues, yes, I would have** but the new venue caters much better for a wider range of the public needs and because of that, I think they are enjoying the sport much more now

- - -
Short version of the above - climbing wall improves a lot of the years and it’s much better for it!
- - -

*To be fair, when I worked in bike shops a lot of customers who didn’t do club rides wanted a bike that was good in the road but also good for canals and disused rail lines. These were perfect.

**except the one with the short ropes and a toilet the far side of an industrial estate, no child needs to experience that!

[The Cumbrian]

I have fond memories of Cockermouth climbing wall in the early 90s. The overhanging section was an actual manufactured climbing wall (Bendecrete I seem to recall), another bit was a breeze block wall with holes knocked in it and beckstone holds cemented in, and the last section was an old sandstone wall that was part of the building.
No changing rooms though, but the toilets were quite civilised.

[boxelder]

I have fond memories of Cockermouth climbing wall in the early 90s. The overhanging section was an actual manufactured climbing wall (Bendecrete I seem to recall), another bit was a breeze block wall with holes knocked in it and beckstone holds cemented in, and the last section was an old sandstone wall that was part of the building.
No changing rooms though, but the toilets were quite civilised.

It's not changed much

"more civilised climes" - That's a big old can of worms to open there, if the claim is that the south of Britain is more civilised...........

[gairym]

"more civilised climes" - That's a big old can of worms to open there, if the claim is that the south of Britain is more civilised...........

It was pure bear-poking fun! I'm from Rov-rum (Rotherham) originally and consider myself a card carrying Northerner.

[boxelder]

"more civilised climes" - That's a big old can of worms to open there, if the claim is that the south of Britain is more civilised...........

It was pure bear-poking fun! I'm from Rov-rum (Rotherham) originally and consider myself a card carrying Northerner.

https://youtu.be/PT0ay9u1gg4

As you were

[ledburner]

"more civilised climes" - That's a big old can of worms to open there, if the claim is that the south of Britain is more civilised...........

It was pure bear-poking fun! I'm from Rov-rum (Rotherham) originally and consider myself a card carrying Northerner.

https://youtu.be/PT0ay9u1gg4

As you were

so true.