What bottom bracket do you use?

[directdrive]

On a little 24 hour trip this weekend I noticed a click under pedalling load. I will need to properly investigate, but assuming it's not loose bolts somewhere I'm fairly confident it's either the pedals (some cheap knock-off Chesters) or the BB (MT-800).

Strong suspicions that whatever it is is the result of partial bike submersion a few weeks ago, on an ill-advised trip up the BOAT from Dolgoch to Moel Prysgau after a few rainy days.

Replacing pedals is easy, i.e. I'll just get some proper ones, but wondering about the BB. Most Hollowtech units have a strong reputation for conking out pretty quickly especially in the wet - could also be a preload issue - so wondering what everyone else uses. Looking for longevity and reliability. Thinking about investing in a Hope for set-and-forget value. Worth it?

[Bearbonesnorm]

Only one I've had that's never failed me is Hope.

[rudedog]

I've had an xt BB for the last 5 years on the full suss, must have done 6000 miles at least. This would be in all conditions as it's been my only bike for most of it.

[directdrive]

I will be surprised if this XT is dying so quickly. Then again it seems like some people get 100 miles out of them while some get 10,000 so who knows.

[substandard]

Genuine SKF bearings to replace whatever junk fitted by all the bike brands, outlasts anything else I’ve tried.

Sure they are 15-20 quid a bearing but they last 4-5times as long as they are made of actual quality materials with functional seals.

[whitestone]

One of the problems with Hollowtech BBs is overdoing the preload before you tighten the two main retaining bolts. Use one of the small plastic preload tools (not the one that's on the opposite end of BB tools like Park's that lets you do things up way too tight), tighten "finger tight" then back off a quarter turn.

Cranks with 24mm spindles fit fine in standard BB shells and there's enough room for the protective plastic tube to sit between the two cups but 30mm spindles are too big for this so there's no internal protection from any grime that gets in the various breathing holes.

I've Hope BBs on the Solaris (HT2), Spearfish (PF41) and road bike (HT2), the fat bike has a cheap Deore. The one on the Solaris must be nearly six years old now and has done over 16,000km in all conditions. I do a twice yearly (pre and post winter) remove from frame and clean - remove "top hat" and remove dirt behind that; remove cups and clean and regrease threads on cups and inside the shell but don't do anything like popping the seals and adding extra grease.

[ScotRoutes]

I mostly use that same Shimano MT800. The one on my Pact has done (I've just checked) 6,031.8km. It's been through a few rivers and bogs

I'll usually have a spare kicking around in the garage and would pick one up for £15 or so.

As already said, the thing that usually destroys BBs is too much preload.

Edit: 3 of my bikes have PF BBs and the Internet is full of tales sagging them. The oldest has done well over 10,000km (I wasn't always measuring) and is still perfect.

[directdrive]

Good info. I guess if I have killed it, it's preload, although I am usually careful to go no more than finger tight. Without the backing off though - so maybe I have overdone it even then.

Not a retrogrouch, but none of this business to be had with UN55s.

[mustang]

Cranks with 24mm spindles fit fine in standard BB shells and there's enough room for the protective plastic tube to sit between the two cups but 30mm spindles are too big for this so there's no internal protection from any grime that gets in the various breathing holes.

Wheels manufacturing and C-bear make a BSA30 BB with a protective sleeve for 30mm spindles. The wmfg angular contact bearing BB is very good.

[Moff]

I put a Rideworks on the singlespeed, seems like a notch up in quality over a Hope one. Only a few hundred miles so far but going good.

[directdrive]

I put a Rideworks on the singlespeed, seems like a notch up in quality over a Hope one. Only a few hundred miles so far but going good.

Interesting, had not heard of that brand before. A bit cheaper even than a Hope. Can't see much online re: durability but I suppose the important thing is replaceable stainless bearings, so I guess a similar product.

[substandard]

None of these ‘bike brands’ actually manufacture bearings though??

Just buy decent genuine bearings to fit whatever shells you already have,

The only time I’ve spent big money on a bottom bracket was to convert a rubbish bb30 frame to run 24mm shimano and used a ride works screw together adaptor jobby, from memory it had enduro bearings in it, didn’t last long but simple enough to upgrade

[directdrive]

None of these ‘bike brands’ actually manufacture bearings though??

Just buy decent genuine bearings to fit whatever shells you already have,

The only time I’ve spent big money on a bottom bracket was to convert a rubbish bb30 frame to run 24mm shimano and used a ride works screw together adaptor jobby, from memory it had enduro bearings in it, didn’t last long but simple enough to upgrade

Bit of a weird argument - 'none of them manufacture their own bearings so there's no difference between cheap and expensive bottom brackets'? ... Am I reading that right?

Two big differences I can think of right off the bat are 1) the quality of the sealing on the unit and 2) whether the product is designed for you to replace the bearings yourself. I know you can in theory replace the bearings on a Shimano, but as far as I know it's a proper PITA, plus they use weird sized bearings.

Surely it's worth paying for added serviceability? Obviously most things are technically serviceable but seems to me that it's barely worth trying on a Shimano unit that is purposely designed to be disposable.

[Moff]

None of these ‘bike brands’ actually manufacture bearings though??

Unless you go for Chris King, they make their own bearings.

[Alpinum]

Currently Raceface and SRAM for no particular reason.
Raceface is actually quite rubbish and with the SRAM one's (different types) my experience has been mostly okay.
I get 2 - 3 years out of one in all kinds of Swiss weather (nothing compared to UK, especially during winter).
Once rode a PF really into the ground and removing it was a right faff, the shell was in bits and pieces.
Once it starts running rough, better replace it and not wait until it develops play or so.

[substandard]

None of these ‘bike brands’ actually manufacture bearings though??

Just buy decent genuine bearings to fit whatever shells you already have,

The only time I’ve spent big money on a bottom bracket was to convert a rubbish bb30 frame to run 24mm shimano and used a ride works screw together adaptor jobby, from memory it had enduro bearings in it, didn’t last long but simple enough to upgrade

Bit of a weird argument - 'none of them manufacture their own bearings so there's no difference between cheap and expensive bottom brackets'? ... Am I reading that right?

Two big differences I can think of right off the bat are 1) the quality of the sealing on the unit and 2) whether the product is designed for you to replace the bearings yourself. I know you can in theory replace the bearings on a Shimano, but as far as I know it's a proper PITA, plus they use weird sized bearings.

Surely it's worth paying for added serviceability? Obviously most things are technically serviceable but seems to me that it's barely worth trying on a Shimano unit that is purposely designed to be disposable.

There is a difference from the cheap to more expensive ones, it’s just down to what bearing they’ve chosen to specify them with,

Case and point a replacement raceface cinch bottom bracket is £40 and the bearings they use are utter tosh. For £30 I can buy some genuine skf bearings, carefully press them in and enjoy a lifespan many times longer than the bike branded item.

The bearing does the majority of the sealing (and drag) I’m not sure who hope use for their stainless bearings but for an off the shelf solution they always come highly rated. All the guff around the bearing is largely a moisture trap.

The point I was badly trying to make was that if you’ve already got a bb, then replacing the bearings with quality branded ones was a better shout than buying a whole new branded bottom bracket from a bike manufacturer (ignoring high end ck example)

Serviceability wise, sure some are a little easier to get out but it’s only the shimano units with the plastic sleeves that I’ve found to be a pita, everything else I’ve had to bits has been relatively simple with a crude press arrangement.

[lune ranger]

Not that this helps the debate but I recently had a Royce BB fitted with new bearings. I had to send it to Royce for them to do and it wasn’t cheap. As the original set lasted nigh on 20years and many thousands of Kim’s I think the expense is justified.

[Pirahna]

I've got 5 bikes with Chris King BB's, 3 are 24mm and 2 are PF30. I own the grease tools for both models and a decent grease gun. All brackets are a few year old. How good are they? I usually maintain them once a year, the 24mm on the Jones was given a grease change then ridden down the Divide with no issues. Grease is always Progold EPX.

Between wifey and myself we have 10's of thousands of miles on these BB's, I highly recommend them. Get a decent grease gun, decent grease, some spare seals just in case and you'll never need a bottom brocket until the next standard comes along.

[whitestone]

Hope use IGN bearings, I think they're Swiss, Gian might confirm. They are easy to replace, especially if you have their bearing kit.

Yeah, Raceface BBs are tosh, got 1500km out of mine. Closely matched by SRAM GXP.

[Cheeky Monkey]

Hope, because they are designed to be easily user services and I like that. I haven't had any wear issues but am not a high mileage rider.

TBH not had issues with any BBs.

I struggle to romanticize about UN BBs as I remember changing plenty. So the mythical longevity people ascribe to them seems just that (myth).

HYOH though.

[jameso]

XT M800 these days, durability is pretty good compared to the older HT2s. Get more than 6 months from them which is an improvement on the old design.
King was a nice bit of kit but the sealing was fairly ineffective, a fully clean BB could sound gritty and be full of junk after a long winter ride or need regreasing weekly. I took it off and have it in the spares pile.
Had a Praxxis with replaceable bearings, put SKFs in there, the nds was done in a matter of months (winter into spring).
Hope is the one I should try but I've not been tempted so far as the design / sealing seems no different to others.

I don't think there's a problem with the bearings themselves in many BBs, it's a lack of sealing. It's always the nds that fails on my mtbs, suggesting that the crank / ring offers some protection that helps. Could also suggest the nds of my bike is wonky but over the last 4 MTBs/frames it's been the same, also on the gravel bike. I keep an eye out for a plastic cup or bottle of the right size that could be cut to make a shield that sits between the BB and crank, I keep thinking that could make the difference.

[Bearbonesnorm]

don't think there's a problem with the bearings themselves in many BBs, it's a lack of sealing. It's always the nds that fails on my mtbs, suggesting that the crank / ring offers some protection that helps. Could also suggest the nds of my bike is wonky but over the last 4 MTBs/frames it's been the same, also on the gravel bike. I keep an eye out for a plastic cup or bottle of the right size that could be cut to make a shield that sits between the BB and crank, I keep thinking that could make the difference.

I think you're right that the sealing of any bearing is always an issue and a potential trouble causer but ... the bearings in most BB are actually quite small. As spindle sized increased the outer diameter didn't really increase to compensate (anyone remember ISIS). We tend to think of the load on a BB coming directly from the act of pedaling but consider the load placed on them when they are supporting your entire weight when descending. The smaller diameter balls within the smaller sized bearings are taking a lot of hammer.

[jameso]

^ true, I doubt it helps. I look at a square taper BB and see a small OD bearing, perhaps a better ball to race size ratio? But they're not large or widely spaced, they just seem well protected from the wet and dirt. Alignment and pressure on HT2 bearings is less constant compared to a square taper too. I guess any one element being weak kills a bearing lifespan and HT2 types are more susceptible to all of them.
The only reason I don't use square tapers on the MTB is the way the axles can tend to deform the cranks, but I don't ride basic jumps or drops like I used to 20 years ago so I might give them another go. Got some nice Middleburns that may end up on the MTB SS as I've all but given up on HT2s lasting that long. The next gravel bike build will be on square taper cranks for sure, my audax bike has Sugino sq taper cranks and do I feel like I'm lacking on the hills without that stiffer hollow Shimano crank and 24mm axle? Not at all.

[Bearbonesnorm]

perhaps a better ball to race size ratio?

I reckon that's perhaps a big part.

[ton]

always used shimano.
square taper was my choice as long as they were available, never had any problems or failures.
then the shimano ones with external bearings. again never had a problem, they run for ever.

new bike has a hope bb. we will see.