Ruta De La Plata

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Blue Wheeler
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Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2018 5:51 pm
Location: Dorset, UK

Ruta De La Plata

Post by Blue Wheeler »

Hi Guys, I'm Keith from Dorset. No stranger to cycling but have never 'Bikepacked' before. A friend of mine did the Trans America Trail when he retired a few years ago which got me thinking about touring on two wheels. It didn't take me long to figure out that Bikepacking was the way forward for a self supported 'go anywhere' adventure. so I've spent the last 3 months accumulating the kit I need. I bought a Genesis Longitude with 27.5" semi fat tyres which was a bargain at half (yes half price!). Anyway, I had planned to do some short excursions but ended up committing myself to a bit of a challenge for the first adventure. In May I will be flying out to Seville and riding back on the Ruta Del La Plata. The Route I will be taking is 1100km starting in Seville and leading north all the way to the north of Spain until you reach the sea. The trails will vary from narrow paths to paved roads and I hope to complete the route in 8 days :cool:
Rasta
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Location: Sussex & France.

Re: Ruta De La Plata

Post by Rasta »

I did it from S de C southbound to Seville then Malaga.
Remember to get the accomodation card in Seville. You can't get it along the way except in Salamanca. Without it you can't use the discounted hostals.
Last edited by Rasta on Mon Mar 05, 2018 2:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
pistonbroke
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Re: Ruta De La Plata

Post by pistonbroke »

The Via Del Plata is a classic route and ideal taster for Bikepacking as it's well maked and has lots of resupply points. I've been toying with putting together a grand triangular route comprising my C2C route from Tarragona as far as Burgos, then along the Camino de Santiago to Santiago de Compostella then south along the Via del Plata and Ruta Don Quixote back to Valencia and home. We're down in Andalusia at Easter to ride the GR247 then doing the C2C in May, Spain is a great place for this type of tomfoolery.
If you look on wikiloc, there are loads of downloadable routes for the Via del Plata, a guy called Zinaztli has done thousands of km on these long distance trails
http://zinaztli.blogspot.com.es/2014/04 ... villa.html
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Mariner
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Re: Ruta De La Plata

Post by Mariner »

According to the pilgrimage rules if you have a Compostela the pilgrim certificate you are entitled to stay at the Alberques on the way home.
See also https://www.caminodesantiago.me/communi ... camino.24/
Lots of information and maps guides etc.
Zazen - nothing happens next this is it.
Albs1973
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Joined: Wed Apr 26, 2017 7:40 pm

Re: Ruta De La Plata

Post by Albs1973 »

That'll be a great trip, the Genesis is perfect for the job.

I considered doing it with a well known tour company a few years ago, but it's so expensive. Usually well over £100 a day for what sbe a cheap activity. Think it was nearly £3k. They allowed 17 days...and they carry your gear, but they're allowing for wider groups pace in fairness, 8 days will be good going!

Have since cajoled some mates into trying it and now we're all hooked and have tried to fit at least one big trip in a year since.

Been on Camino France on three separate trips, and biked Portuguese route last year solo, around time of the fires. The Caminos are a great experience. Beautiful countryside, good riding, passing through nice cities, towns, villages, architecture, culture, cuisine, fellow pilgrims and pilgrim camaraderie etc.

No need for GPS, may be useful occasionally, just keep eyes peeled for the yellow arrows/shells, they're everywhere once you've tuned in.

The Camino France route is great riding, particularly from Leon. Two of the biggest peaks on that section have some brilliant long and very fast descents lasting many kilometres. Many cycle tourists take road that runs parallel, we took walkers route, some long gravel/fire road type surfaces but also plenty of technical riding too. Def need a mountain bike. We underestimated how hard daily distance would be, overpacking didn't help, but all the Spain trips have been in August and 2 of them were in super scorchio 40 degree plus heat which made it very hard. Portugal was super scorchio too, literally, and that was May. Then it's worth leaving mega early in mornings to try and avoid heat! Luckily Portugal route no where near as hilly.

No need to take cooking gear, perhaps for a brew but loads of places to stop for coffee/food. The pilgrim meals offered in restaurants and at hostels are excellent value, quality and huge portions with a beer and wine included €8-12, three courses. Super markets, village stores etc. Plenty of water fountains enroute, and one wine fountain..! That's on France route though.

If you intend to get the compostela, you need to get an additional stamp or two during day in addition to one at accomodation ideally, not a disaster if you miss odd ones. And factor in a 3/4 hour wait at office as you queue with other pilgrims for the certificate, A couple of versions you can ask for, and a personalised one with distance for an extra fee. If pressed for time I think there's a way you can leave pilgrim passport with them to process, probably for a fee.

Tournride in Santiago is a useful contact, chap there called Xavier is super helpful, can supply cardboard bike box and tape, I've posted stuff ahead to him too when I've taken too much. He came into town and opened up for us to give us boxes on day off. Will also help with other logistics/comms etc in return for a good trip advisor review, def deserved. There is another shop that does same but don't have name to hand, can also pack and post your bike home for something like €100. Have always just lugged mine with me, but could be useful.

Bikes need to be boxed up if using trains at any point. Not usually a problem getting them on but did get turned away once in Madrid by a jobsworth who didn't like cardboard boxes which resulted in a v.expensive car rental to get to our start point. Policy did state bag in fairness but that's only time we've had an issue.

There's a great campsite at top of Santiago city that's often swarming with cycle tourists, some real hardcore cycle tourists there, from all over the place. Met a French couple who said they had a combined age of 143 or something on a tandem with a huge trailer that included a huge fold out kitchen, both looked about 50 and had been all over the world, the old boy was running round with glee looking at other peoples set ups. Excellent restuarant there too.

All sorts of characters from all walks of life and ages to meet..quite a few nuttas too, of the eccentric variety. Makes it all the more entertaining.

Plenty of other gems that could enhance trip with research, but best not to plan too much IMO. Had read some places will turn cyclists away and give walkers priority, but didn't really encounter that. Only in Portugal, I pulled into a place purely by chance that's apparently famous and one of the first registered casas/hostels, nice family who love putting up, meeting and entertaining pilgrims, famous for hospitality, they have a dorm built in garden. They were in garden cooking cod bacalou for everyone, got a flat no at first as they were full and didn't take cyclists, asked to camp in garden and they eventually let me, didn't normally allow cyclists. But invited me into house for a massive slap up home cooked Portuguese meal with about 20 other pilgrims from all over world. Everyone else seemed to know what to expect, except me. Out came a lot of excellent home made wine, the famous sherry, schnapps and it all turned into a bit of a pissup and sing song with everyone picking on English the cyclist. Sing us a song English. Eurovision nightmare. They only accepted token donations, refused €20 and ended up accepting much less. Def a different experience doing it on your own in terms of being more approachable to others...think I had a stupid grin on face all the way from Lisbon to Santiago. Accomodation generally of a higher std in Portugal, some of the places were stunning.

Take your earplugs if staying in dorms in hostels as the walkers will all be getting up to leave at 4 or 5am! We generally asked to camp in grounds instead for a better nights sleep, where possible. There's often someone faffing with their gear during night.

A bell so as not to scare the walkers is a good idea, some occasionally get stroppy anyway! Campsites not as plentiful as France, but there are a few good ones, wild camping difficult on france route but not impossible. Not legal in Spain so stealth required. Managed it a few times. Maybe easier on Ruta de la plata. Was a good site in one town that had a massive lido across road, that made a good place to stop for a rest day. Another gem. Sometimes you pass picnic areas with concrete tables/chairs/ BBQs, were told in one village it was ok to camp there, but were chased out of town by the local kids

If you have a hunt online or try the Camino forum you can probably source a spreadsheet with list of hostels, campsites, prices etc, and ask people for tips.

There's a coastal loop at end from Santiago to finisterre, muxia, coruna (can fly from there) that's worth doing and sounds like a good finale to the mountains etc, not managed to fit it in yet.

Not a wilderness experience but fun in a different way, good riding, well catered for and social if you want that too.

Digressed a bit there, hopefully some relevant insights though!

Getting itchy feet now.

Buen Camino!
Blue Wheeler
Posts: 37
Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2018 5:51 pm
Location: Dorset, UK

Re: Ruta De La Plata

Post by Blue Wheeler »

pistonbroke wrote:The Via Del Plata is a classic route and ideal taster for Bikepacking as it's well maked and has lots of resupply points. I've been toying with putting together a grand triangular route comprising my C2C route from Tarragona as far as Burgos, then along the Camino de Santiago to Santiago de Compostella then south along the Via del Plata and Ruta Don Quixote back to Valencia and home. We're down in Andalusia at Easter to ride the GR247 then doing the C2C in May, Spain is a great place for this type of tomfoolery.
If you look on wikiloc, there are loads of downloadable routes for the Via del Plata, a guy called Zinaztli has done thousands of km on these long distance trails
http://zinaztli.blogspot.com.es/2014/04 ... villa.html
Thanks, I figured that a ride in a warm climate would be a good one to cut my teeth on. I have downloaded the GPX files for the route but doubt if I'll need them as I believe that it is well marked? I had originally planned a more leisurely pace with no fixed agenda but as I need to be back in the UK by early June I'll need to get a wiggle on :roll:
Blue Wheeler
Posts: 37
Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2018 5:51 pm
Location: Dorset, UK

Re: Ruta De La Plata

Post by Blue Wheeler »

Thanks guys and in particular Albs1973 for the wealth of information, sounds like I'll have to do more than one visit ! Full disclosure....I had planned to mostly stealth camp along the Ruta but from what I have read this is inadvisable and probably illegal. I have opted for cheap hotels most of which only cost 25-30 euros a night. (I'm too old for hostels!) :grin:

That said I will still be jumping a fairly basic camping set up as I will be staying one night at a campsite I visited a few years back at Potes. Incidentally I will be deviating from the Ruta at Leon as I need to get to Santander for the ferry home via Plymouth. I will extend the tour to part of Dartmoor and on through Devon/Dorset and will spend a couple more nights camping before arriving home on June 2nd. :cool:
Rasta
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Joined: Thu Feb 22, 2018 9:33 am
Location: Sussex & France.

Re: Ruta De La Plata

Post by Rasta »

Hola! Albs,

Quite a report there. Sounds like you have a fair bit of experience.
I have always wanted to do S de C south through Portugal. But I hear nothing but bad reports about Portugese drivers.
Not that they are bad, but because Portugal is not big into cycling so the drivers are not used to them.

I may look into doing a completely off-road route.

Luego.

PS. A few mentions above about good sign posts. Not true if going southbound. There are none. It is a pilgrimage heading north to S de C.
Also, I stayed in a refugio just north of Seville. The day before I arrived, all the bikes (x4) were stolen from a locked room. Take care.
Rasta
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Location: Sussex & France.

Re: Ruta De La Plata

Post by Rasta »

Wild camping in Spain is not a problem. You will only be moved on if found. The main problem is the miles upon miles of barbed wire. Some fences are over 20 miles long. Don't sleep in those fields. Effing big bulls hidden over the horizon.
The hostals are not full of kids but serious hikers who are doing very big miles. Very social but early to bed.
Albs1973
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Apr 26, 2017 7:40 pm

Re: Ruta De La Plata

Post by Albs1973 »

Don't let me put you off the camping! The France's route is prob much busier. We planned to camp much more but didn't always seem to get opportunity. Equally the hostels may be quieter on your route.

Rasta is right, hostels aren't full of noisy people, lights out and quiet by 10. Just saying if your in a room with 20 others, or more, and your a light sleeper, you'll get disturbed. ESP when the walkers all start moving early. I'd rather be outside.

Hola Luego - not loads, a few trips on camino's, where your well catered for. Not exactly into the wild!

Portugal was nice, and people very welcoming of pilgrims. People were often stopping to check your ok (in heat), honking horns/shouting encouragement etc. The stretch from Porto is def better, less busy roads, and more off road. From Lisbon to Porto there were some stretches along very busy roads, lorries etc. More of an issue for walkers who's aren't getting past it all as quickly, guessing that's why the walkers might flag it as unpleasant, they're stuck on it much longer. Nice bits too though. Found all drivers considerate, usually a big hard shoulder and all give you a very wide birth, no one wants to run a pilgrim over! Didn't experience any problems there.

Think there may be an alternate route through national parks that is much quieter. Prob worth looking into. Bet coastal route is nice too.

Forgot to mention the John Brierley guides are worth having so you can see day ahead, v useful, shorter version perfect if your not planning excursions.

Do need to be a bit more careful with your gear as you approach the cities, usual common sense
middleagedmadness
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Re: Ruta De La Plata

Post by middleagedmadness »

Rasta wrote:Hola!

PS. A few mentions above about good sign posts. Not true if going southbound. There are none. It is a pilgrimage heading north to S de C.
Also, I stayed in a refugio just north of Seville. The day before I arrived, all the bikes (x4) were stolen from a locked room. Take care.
This is because Seville is a Mecca for gitanos especially from April when the sevillanos start their own pilgrimage up the coast
Blue Wheeler
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Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2018 5:51 pm
Location: Dorset, UK

Re: Ruta De La Plata

Post by Blue Wheeler »

middleagedmadness wrote:
Rasta wrote:Hola!

PS. A few mentions above about good sign posts. Not true if going southbound. There are none. It is a pilgrimage heading north to S de C.
I am staying a week in Seville before starting my trip so heading northbound. :-bd
Blue Wheeler
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Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2018 5:51 pm
Location: Dorset, UK

Re: Ruta De La Plata

Post by Blue Wheeler »

In Seville now ready to start the ride next Weds :cool:
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Mariner
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Re: Ruta De La Plata

Post by Mariner »

Buen Comino.
Zazen - nothing happens next this is it.
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