Let’s talk torque

lune ranger · Post by **lune ranger** » Sun Dec 20, 2020 3:50 pm

The multi tool thread showed that some folk are carrying torque wrenches on rides. When I saw that I was

I own two torque wrenches that cover most values but they rarely come out of their cases.
I see torque values quoted as a guide to either finger snug things or crank things hard but don’t really bother to see if I’m hitting the exact value prescribed.
Am I some kind of uncultured vandal?
What are other people doing when the shed door is shut and no ones looking?

Cheeky Monkey · Post by **Cheeky Monkey** » Sun Dec 20, 2020 3:53 pm

All by feel.

I've barely stripped a bolt and haven't died.

I don't have carbon parts.

YMMV

sean_iow · Post by **sean_iow** » Sun Dec 20, 2020 4:25 pm

The only parts I use a torque wrench on are:-

Stem bolts, Jones Loops have more leverage than most bars so need the stem done up tight enough but Thomson face-plates have a reputation for cracking if the bolts are over-tight*

Cranks, the XO carbons require a high torque on the M8 bolt to make sure the arm is on properly

* Thomson addressed this problem by using allen bolts that take a smaller allen key than standard for the bolt size and making the bolts our of a softer material so they round out before you do them up to tight

I have a stem mounted garmin mount so use longer bolts made of actual metal so I could do mine up too tight if I tried.

redefined_cycles · Post by **redefined_cycles** » Sun Dec 20, 2020 4:30 pm

lune ranger wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 3:50 pm The multi tool thread showed that some folk are carrying torque wrenches on rides. When I saw that I was
I own two torque wrenches that cover most values but they rarely come out of their cases.
I see torque values quoted as a guide to either finger snug things or crank things hard but don’t really bother to see if I’m hitting the exact value prescribed.
Am I some kind of uncultured vandal?
What are other people doing when the shed door is shut and no ones looking?

Uncultured vandal you... you don't carry 2 (calibrated) torque wrenches on your rides. What are you like!!

fatbikephil · Post by **fatbikephil** » Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:06 pm

I've started using my torque wrench quite a bit in recent years - reason being more and more things do need to be done up just tight enough, but not too tight. M5 stem clamp bolts, EBB wedge bolt, seat post bolt (to stop dropper post from sticking) and anything on carbon. Previously I followed the old philosophy of tightening up 'till it strips and then backing it off half a turn....

Oh and we must not start the grease or not grease discussion!

Bearbonesnorm · Post by **Bearbonesnorm** » Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:14 pm

Mine's inbuilt within my wrist.

woodsmith · Post by **woodsmith** » Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:36 pm

Bearbonesnorm wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:14 pm Mine's inbuilt within my wrist.

My ankle has a pronounced click, can I use that instead?

RIP · Post by **RIP** » Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:37 pm

Bearbonesnorm wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:14 pm Mine's inbuilt within my wrist.

The conversation could take a number of directions from this point onwards

. Me, I'm saying nowt.

lune ranger · Post by **lune ranger** » Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:45 pm

RIP wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:37 pm
Bearbonesnorm wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:14 pm Mine's inbuilt within my wrist.
The conversation could take a number of directions from this point onwards . Me, I'm saying nowt.

That’s friction, it’s different!

slarge · Post by **slarge** » Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:48 pm

5Nm is a tight screwdriver tightness - so on that basis you can pretty much get all the stem bolts, seatpost clamps and other low torque stuff set about right. With carbon bars etc the last thing anyone wants is to damage the carbon, so the correct torque is a nip up to 4-6Nm ish.

I think anyone with a bit of mechanical sympathy shouldn't need a torque wrench (unless they're doing cylinder head bolts or something like that)

redefined_cycles · Post by **redefined_cycles** » Sun Dec 20, 2020 8:08 pm

For reference Luke... I do have both a 6nm and a 40 to 50ish nm wrench. Used to have the head mechanic, where I eventually (was allowed to, voluntarily) worked used his biceps as the gauge for the BB. Used to need a new BB at least every year or less and assumed that normal.

Then started using my dads (cheap) torque wrench to get the BBs at 40 and since then i reckon they've been lasting well over 2 years. You've obviously not got my problem if you're replacing yours (Royce) 15 years on

As for the smaller bolts I've always used wrist as the guage. I do have the cheapo (came with the Canyon but its mechanical and not digital so probably slightly more reliable reading) 6nm wrench that came with Frameset. Use it for carbon duties but only to get within range and then drive it home with the wrist and angle of the hex key.

Don't forget (AFAIB) that torque wrench won't necessarily be totally accurate without a calibration/confirmation etc

As to people carrying torque wrench on their rides. Surely you're messing about (or they're totally OCD... no offence to em)..

Bearbonesnorm · Post by **Bearbonesnorm** » Sun Dec 20, 2020 8:19 pm

unless they're doing cylinder head bolts or something like that

Yay, head bolts and clutch centre nuts here - although they're often just 'FT'.

Alpinum · Post by **Alpinum** » Sun Dec 20, 2020 8:49 pm

I just spent 5 h giving love to 2 of my bikes and my girlfriends bike, the everyday bikes especially.
Whilst I have a torque wrench, I only used it to check rotor bolts, having ti screws on expensive SON dyno hub, I make sure they don't seize every... probably less than every year. Typically for myself, I found they were over tightened. I struggle to learn just how little torque 6 or even 8 Nm is. Even after about 32 year of bike fettling.
If I had been working on stem/bar, I would've used the torque wrench for sure.
I seem to always over tigthen screws.

Then I also have issues with some manufacturer's torque requirements, like Newmen stem. If I torque them as required by Newmen, I have (very rarely) found that it twists under very hard loading (the sort of where you're expecting a crash, but can just about ride it out). Carbon assembly paste (despite this being alu on alu) and over torquing by 1 Nm has solved the issue.
Also stem and carbon bars - always by torque wrench.

My lock on grips (Pro Koryak) all need to be over torqued, if not, they twist when I pull for bunny hopping an obstacle. Requirement is 1 Nm... pfff...
Same with the axle of my Karmpus. No way I can torque it as required by Surly without having issues with the axle slipping (bloody rotten Surly drop outs when single speeding).

Saddle... I believe most over torque those screws holding the rails. Crazy how some fellow riders torque the sub standard out of the poor screws, thinking this is the way (yes, I've recently watched 'The Mandalorian') to get rid of the crackling.
And stems...
And suspension bolts...
And cranks...
And pedals...
And cleats...
And seat post collars...

In the late nineties I remember seeing folks every now and then with stripped threads on stems. Likely pushing the material limits for lightness by manufacturers combined with a level of lack of experience/knowledge/competence caused a series of injuries, crashes and early race finishes.
Recently I had a look at a crazy expensive stem by Extralight. Torque was 2 Nm iirc. 2... nope, not in my house.

Not everyone fettles with screws on a daily basis. I for one.
I'm happy about my torque wrench and when fettling about at home always use it on certain bolts and also try to learn what it means for when I use my multitools during a trip.

My name is Gian. I have no such mechanical sympathy.
But I would like to.

middleagedmadness · Post by **middleagedmadness** » Mon Dec 21, 2020 5:30 am

Cylinder heads bolts up till the angle torque then comes out the 1” drive air gun and tipex for the angle torque , only ever used one on a bike once and that was because my crank arm kept falling off , it still did after using a torque wrench

Boab · Post by **Boab** » Mon Dec 21, 2020 9:16 am

I think I should clarify what I actually carry, as it's not like I take my Norbar out on my rides... Like many others, I'm totally ham fisted when tightening stuff up, and have striped threads, rounded heads and even sheered bolts, in the past. When I got my Calibre Dune, I didn't want to knacker it while fettling my position while out on the first few rides, so I bought a NANO TORQBOX 5NM. It's allowed me to fettle various bolts, and have confidence that I wasn't going to damage anything, or die going round the next corner.

When I built my RAG+ last year, I bought Norbar for doing up the BB, left hand crank pinch bolts etc. It's not suitable for all the low torque stuff though, so the wee TORQBOX still gets used for various duties. I haven't used it in anger, out on a ride, for ages, but it still goes in the frame bag, as it's so small, and gives me confidence.

Bearbonesnorm · Post by **Bearbonesnorm** » Mon Dec 21, 2020 9:27 am

Just a word of caution for those with torque wrenches - never leave them wound up. Always return them to zero as soon as you've finished with them. If you don't, you can weaken the internal springs and it will never read correctly if that happens.

Boab · Post by **Boab** » Mon Dec 21, 2020 9:31 am

Bearbonesnorm wrote: ↑Mon Dec 21, 2020 9:27 am Just a word of caution for those with torque wrenches - never leave them wound up. Always return them to zero as soon as you've finished with them. If you don't, you can weaken the internal springs and it will never read correctly if that happens.

I treat my Norbar like it's my third child, totally mollycoddled. Unlike my old Halfords ones, that was left wound up, and unused, for twenty years...

Mariner · Post by **Mariner** » Mon Dec 21, 2020 11:50 am

All the small stuff that is too easy to overtighten.
Strangely not BB or cassette.
Found myself struggling to remove RS Stealth axle the other day so when it came to refitting glanced at my torque set then thought nah.

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