Oh Arse!
Moderators: Bearbonesnorm, Taylor, Chew
- BigdummySteve
- Posts: 2974
- Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2016 9:16 pm
- Location: Somewhere over the rainbow
Re: Oh Arse!
Cheers, I’ve cheekily asked if they will fund a pair of the light bicycle rims, couldn’t stand the shame of mismatched rims
We’re all individuals, except me.
I woke up this morning but I’m still in the dark
I woke up this morning but I’m still in the dark
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- Posts: 2129
- Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Southern Cataluña
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Re: Oh Arse!
Interested to see both of the rims linked above are hookless. For setting up tubeless, would you not need hooked rims? I've not had much experience of using carbon rims off road, I've only used glued on tubs on CX and road rims and clincher tyres on a pair of Dura-Ace C25 on my Litespeed.
- BigdummySteve
- Posts: 2974
- Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2016 9:16 pm
- Location: Somewhere over the rainbow
Re: Oh Arse!
To honest, I’ve no idea, the light bicycle rims are promoted as being good for tubeless setup, it does seem counterintuitive not to have a more traditional bead hook, probably best do some research given my recent wheel woes.
We’re all individuals, except me.
I woke up this morning but I’m still in the dark
I woke up this morning but I’m still in the dark
Re: Oh Arse!
Mine are hookless light bicycle, no issues with 30mm (internal) rims running tyres from 2.25 to 3.0 tubeless. Pressures from 13-15psi to 40psi. I've used tyres from Schwalbe, Maxxis, Vittoria, WTB,
Hardest by far to inflate are the 3" WTB but I find this to be the case on anything other than wtb rims with wtb tyres. Only surpassed in faffery by Panaracer GK on an older WTB frequency rim (really deep well).
Stans tape works perfect, funn tape works perfect. Tesa tape from ebay isnt as sticky but was made to work.
Hardest by far to inflate are the 3" WTB but I find this to be the case on anything other than wtb rims with wtb tyres. Only surpassed in faffery by Panaracer GK on an older WTB frequency rim (really deep well).
Stans tape works perfect, funn tape works perfect. Tesa tape from ebay isnt as sticky but was made to work.
Re: Oh Arse!
I would add, I always use tubeless ready tyres.
Re: Oh Arse!
I can generally speaking vouch for Light Bicycle rims. I have 6 and have been very happy with them.BigdummySteve wrote: ↑Mon Jul 27, 2020 4:50 pm To honest, I’ve no idea, the light bicycle rims are promoted as being good for tubeless setup, it does seem counterintuitive not to have a more traditional bead hook, probably best do some research given my recent wheel woes.
I got my mountain bike rims to go up tubeless very easily and that was using gorilla tape and non-tubless ready tyres.
Re: Oh Arse!
Same as with Dave and Neil.
All my trail bikes/bikepacking r i g s (mwahahaha) are on Lightbicycle rims. Internal 30 mm and going really strong.
They're 3 years 'old' now.
On one bike I use the heavier 470 g (32 h) version on the rear and it feels like a wheel with 36 spokes and a 300 g heavier 26" DH rim. It's utterly stiff.
Should you choose the i30 mm LB rim, go with the 420 g version front and rear.
I ride these on my short travel trail/downcountry bike/bikepacking r i g (mwahahaha) with 28 h and the bike sees a fair bit of hard riding and also here - absolutely fuss free and a bit more compliant than the wheels of my long travel trail bike.
Schwalbe, Vittoria, Maxxis, Continental of various types and widths (2.25 - 2.6) have all gone up tubeless really easy and stayed put in all situations.
Hookless also makes the impact area wider. I couldn't tell a difference, but it should help in preventing pinch flats. And once you bottom out the tyre, with LB rims there a lot of material to take the force.
Something other brands (like Newman) like to use for marketing.
All my trail bikes/bikepacking r i g s (mwahahaha) are on Lightbicycle rims. Internal 30 mm and going really strong.
They're 3 years 'old' now.
On one bike I use the heavier 470 g (32 h) version on the rear and it feels like a wheel with 36 spokes and a 300 g heavier 26" DH rim. It's utterly stiff.
Should you choose the i30 mm LB rim, go with the 420 g version front and rear.
I ride these on my short travel trail/downcountry bike/bikepacking r i g (mwahahaha) with 28 h and the bike sees a fair bit of hard riding and also here - absolutely fuss free and a bit more compliant than the wheels of my long travel trail bike.
Schwalbe, Vittoria, Maxxis, Continental of various types and widths (2.25 - 2.6) have all gone up tubeless really easy and stayed put in all situations.
Hookless also makes the impact area wider. I couldn't tell a difference, but it should help in preventing pinch flats. And once you bottom out the tyre, with LB rims there a lot of material to take the force.
Something other brands (like Newman) like to use for marketing.
- BigdummySteve
- Posts: 2974
- Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2016 9:16 pm
- Location: Somewhere over the rainbow
Re: Oh Arse!
I’ve ordered a DT Swiss M502 to tide me over but think I’ll invest in a set of skinnier rims in LB carbon flavour, problem is I’ve spoilt myself with the onyx and son hubs a loud hub would drive me crazy now.
We’re all individuals, except me.
I woke up this morning but I’m still in the dark
I woke up this morning but I’m still in the dark
- BigdummySteve
- Posts: 2974
- Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2016 9:16 pm
- Location: Somewhere over the rainbow
Re: Oh Arse!
In an exciting wheel development my nipples arrived
I’ve found wheel building heaven, sapim x-ray bladed spokes and DT Swiss Squorx Pro Head nipples with the depth setting drill bit driver.
Laced it up managing to only drop one nipple and washer inside the rim, a record for me
Spun them up to a starting tension, checked the dish them reset the driver and put some proper tension in them. BLOODY hell! It’s under a millimetre out without any hand truing, the bladed spokes require a holder to stop them twisting, the advantage of this is zero spoke twist and less issues when you stress relieve the wheel.
The squorx nipples drive from the inside of the rim with a torx head, it provides a much more consistent release point when using the DT tool.
The only downside I can see is the additional cost, but it’s an exceptionally easy build.
I’ve found wheel building heaven, sapim x-ray bladed spokes and DT Swiss Squorx Pro Head nipples with the depth setting drill bit driver.
Laced it up managing to only drop one nipple and washer inside the rim, a record for me
Spun them up to a starting tension, checked the dish them reset the driver and put some proper tension in them. BLOODY hell! It’s under a millimetre out without any hand truing, the bladed spokes require a holder to stop them twisting, the advantage of this is zero spoke twist and less issues when you stress relieve the wheel.
The squorx nipples drive from the inside of the rim with a torx head, it provides a much more consistent release point when using the DT tool.
The only downside I can see is the additional cost, but it’s an exceptionally easy build.
We’re all individuals, except me.
I woke up this morning but I’m still in the dark
I woke up this morning but I’m still in the dark
- TheBrownDog
- Posts: 2107
- Joined: Thu Mar 14, 2013 8:46 pm
- Location: Chilterns
Re: Oh Arse!
Steve can we get some pix of all the bits and bobs? I've a hankering to do a set of 650B+ for my Big Bro but my last wheel building experience, while perfectly acceptable, doesn't sound like yours.
I'm just going outside ...
- BigdummySteve
- Posts: 2974
- Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2016 9:16 pm
- Location: Somewhere over the rainbow
Re: Oh Arse!
Hi Tim, you’re welcome to borrow the tools, buying them is slightly traumatic, the driver is nearly £30!
The bladed spokes are also a bit salty,
For my next set I’ll see if I can source some cheaper alternatives to the X-rays, the nipples and required washers aren’t too bad
The bladed spokes are also a bit salty,
For my next set I’ll see if I can source some cheaper alternatives to the X-rays, the nipples and required washers aren’t too bad
We’re all individuals, except me.
I woke up this morning but I’m still in the dark
I woke up this morning but I’m still in the dark