This should work, right?
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- Cheeky Monkey
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This should work, right?
Singular Gryphon.
10 speed bar end shifter.
Middleburn cranks with triple spider, 32T ring in middle.
10 speed chain.
Deore 11 to 42 cassette.
SLX 11 speed mech.
Just can't get reliable shifting from about 4th sprocket.
Wont get to 42T whatever I've tried.
Puzzled at mo. Have I missed something obvious?
10 speed bar end shifter.
Middleburn cranks with triple spider, 32T ring in middle.
10 speed chain.
Deore 11 to 42 cassette.
SLX 11 speed mech.
Just can't get reliable shifting from about 4th sprocket.
Wont get to 42T whatever I've tried.
Puzzled at mo. Have I missed something obvious?
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Re: This should work, right?
I always understood it was the 9 speed mtb mechs (Shimano flavours) that had/worked with 10 speed road shifters. Thats what I had running anyway with a 9 spd mtb xt or slx rear mech on a 32 cassette and compact up front double crankset (50/34)...
If i had planned to use a dinner plate cassette I'd probably have struggled and had to ger at least a wolftooth rear mech hanger adaptor involved.
Sure Colin will be along in morning who knows alot more on this dept (and others )
If i had planned to use a dinner plate cassette I'd probably have struggled and had to ger at least a wolftooth rear mech hanger adaptor involved.
Sure Colin will be along in morning who knows alot more on this dept (and others )
Re: This should work, right?
The 10 speed bar end shifter and SLX mech arent compatible due to different pull ratios. Your options are;
-Try a 9 speed mtb mech, which has the same pull ratio as a 10 speed road mech. You may need a wolftooth roadlink (for non shadow mechs - Sunrace do a copy) or goat link for shadow mechs
-Use one of the pulleys to compensate. Jtech shiftmate or wolftooth tanpan
-You could use an mtb shifter and mount it on one of those extensions in front of bars. Something like this https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories ... ssory-bar/
-try a 10 speed road mech with a roadlink
The 9 speed mtb mech is my prefered option
-Try a 9 speed mtb mech, which has the same pull ratio as a 10 speed road mech. You may need a wolftooth roadlink (for non shadow mechs - Sunrace do a copy) or goat link for shadow mechs
-Use one of the pulleys to compensate. Jtech shiftmate or wolftooth tanpan
-You could use an mtb shifter and mount it on one of those extensions in front of bars. Something like this https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories ... ssory-bar/
-try a 10 speed road mech with a roadlink
The 9 speed mtb mech is my prefered option
Last edited by wriggles on Sun Jun 14, 2020 7:41 am, edited 3 times in total.
Re: This should work, right?
^ yes
Shimano Road 10s is 1.7 pull ratio so works with 1.7 pull ratio 8-9s Shimano MTB kit.
10s MTB is 1.2 ratio
11s is about 1.1 according to the link below
Won't work unless you can switch the shifter to friction or get the shifter and mech on the same pull ratio.
http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-beh ... atibility/ - more here
Road or MTB(microshift)?10 speed bar end shifter.
Shimano Road 10s is 1.7 pull ratio so works with 1.7 pull ratio 8-9s Shimano MTB kit.
10s MTB is 1.2 ratio
11s is about 1.1 according to the link below
Won't work unless you can switch the shifter to friction or get the shifter and mech on the same pull ratio.
http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-beh ... atibility/ - more here
Re: This should work, right?
Yeah good point James. I assumed it was a Shimano shifter. Not tried a Microshift shifter
- Cheeky Monkey
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Re: This should work, right?
Damn. Forgot about the pull ratio difference!
I started with a really old XT 9 speed mech but couldn't get it to clear the dinner plate sprocket.
In swapping for something to clear that I forgot about the other issues.
Hey ho, off to raid the parts bin and see if theres anything that might work with a goat link, I guess.
And yes, shimano bar end shifter that are indexed (dont think it can be switched to friction). Second potential solution sounds like a microshift 10 speed MTB ratio bar end shifter (if such a thing exists).
Ah the joys and thanks for the advice
I started with a really old XT 9 speed mech but couldn't get it to clear the dinner plate sprocket.
In swapping for something to clear that I forgot about the other issues.
Hey ho, off to raid the parts bin and see if theres anything that might work with a goat link, I guess.
And yes, shimano bar end shifter that are indexed (dont think it can be switched to friction). Second potential solution sounds like a microshift 10 speed MTB ratio bar end shifter (if such a thing exists).
Ah the joys and thanks for the advice
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Re: This should work, right?
Seems like you're sorted. As an aside I was wondering if the new Altus 9-speed rear mech would work. Rated max cassette size is 36T but we know Shimano are a bit conservative about these things.
- Bearbonesnorm
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Re: This should work, right?
Or simply buy a Dia-compe power ratchet shifter because it'll work with anything and everythingAnd yes, shimano bar end shifter that are indexed (dont think it can be switched to friction). Second potential solution sounds like a microshift 10 speed MTB ratio bar end shifter (if such a thing exists).
May the bridges you burn light your way
- fatbikephil
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Re: This should work, right?
You can buy a cable pulley widget thingy which allows a road shifter to work with a mtb rear mech. Wolftooth components I think.
Re: This should work, right?
Wouldn't work here either way : ) was just wondering about what the fix options might be. AFAIK all Shimano shifters can have the index switched off but I haven't used the 10s versions so not sure, just 8 and 9s. Microshift doesn't seem to have a friction option.
- they do, they're not great ime though. It's because of where the indents/'index click' point is and where the shift happens compared to where the lever settles back to... vague at times but functional. I've used them for years but the Shimanos and SRAMs are much better. And they will only work with a 10s MTB mech, though if it clears the 42 all's good.Second potential solution sounds like a microshift 10 speed MTB ratio bar end shifter (if such a thing exists).
- Cheeky Monkey
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Re: This should work, right?
My spare mechs are all really old XT (M761) or slightly less old XT (M772).
Have ordered a sunrace derallieur expander thingy.
Stu's nuclear option is in reserve (dia compe).
Bloody barend shifters are (IIRC) Dura-ace so the rear one is index shifting only.
Not sure how I've managed to bodge stuff so easily previously.
Waaaahhhhh!
Have ordered a sunrace derallieur expander thingy.
Stu's nuclear option is in reserve (dia compe).
Bloody barend shifters are (IIRC) Dura-ace so the rear one is index shifting only.
Not sure how I've managed to bodge stuff so easily previously.
Waaaahhhhh!
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Re: This should work, right?
Middleburn (BETD) do a direct mount 32t narrow wide which looks nice and neat, just put one on my Inbred
Sunrace expander, I had to dremel a little inside to get it to sit on my hanger
Sunrace expander, I had to dremel a little inside to get it to sit on my hanger
Re: This should work, right?
It feels to me like the detents in the Microshift shifter are too big for the ball (or whatever mechanism they use) that does the indexing. I've found that I get better shifting if I back the preload off as much as I dare on the screw that holds it all together - it helps the cable tension pull the shifter into a known position rather than being held slightly to one side of the sweet spot.jameso wrote: ↑Sun Jun 14, 2020 11:53 am- they do, they're not great ime though. It's because of where the indents/'index click' point is and where the shift happens compared to where the lever settles back to... vague at times but functional. I've used them for years but the Shimanos and SRAMs are much better. And they will only work with a 10s MTB mech, though if it clears the 42 all's good.
- Cheeky Monkey
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Re: This should work, right?
I need to get the gearing working before spaffing on a direct mount ring. You're right they do look good, though it's a bit stoking the fire / looking at the mantle-piece as wellrestlessshawn wrote: ↑Tue Jun 16, 2020 8:26 am Middleburn (BETD) do a direct mount 32t narrow wide which looks nice and neat, just put one on my Inbred
Sunrace expander, I had to dremel a little inside to get it to sit on my hanger
I'd seen mention of the need to maybe fettle the Sunrace adapter, cheers.
Fingers crossed it all works
Re: This should work, right?
how does that work then? do they have a cable throw that covers all possible ratios?Bearbonesnorm wrote: ↑Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:54 am Or simply buy a Dia-compe power ratchet shifter because it'll work with anything and everything
- Cheeky Monkey
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Re: This should work, right?
So far as I know they have no detents / indexing. You shift by a bit of guesswork and trimming, just like bikes "back in the day". I suspect Shimano BE shifters working in friction mode would achieve the same, however, the version I have is one that cannot be set to friction mode.techno wrote: ↑Tue Jun 16, 2020 12:20 pmhow does that work then? do they have a cable throw that covers all possible ratios?Bearbonesnorm wrote: ↑Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:54 am Or simply buy a Dia-compe power ratchet shifter because it'll work with anything and everything
What a palaver ;-)
- Bearbonesnorm
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Re: This should work, right?
As Tim says, there's no indexing. You simply move the lever until you've moved it enough and find yourself in the gear required. Dead quick to change gears without the click, click, click and you very quickly learn how much is enough.how does that work then? do they have a cable throw that covers all possible ratios?
May the bridges you burn light your way
Re: This should work, right?
So they work with Shimano shadow 10sp mechs then?Bearbonesnorm wrote: ↑Wed Jun 17, 2020 2:54 pmAs Tim says, there's no indexing. You simply move the lever until you've moved it enough and find yourself in the gear required. Dead quick to change gears without the click, click, click and you very quickly learn how much is enough.how does that work then? do they have a cable throw that covers all possible ratios?
- Bearbonesnorm
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Re: This should work, right?
Yep. They'll work with any combination.So they work with Shimano shadow 10sp mechs then?
May the bridges you burn light your way
Re: This should work, right?
Thanks.Bearbonesnorm wrote: ↑Wed Jun 17, 2020 8:34 pmYep. They'll work with any combination.So they work with Shimano shadow 10sp mechs then?
- Cheeky Monkey
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Re: This should work, right?
Like the man says:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-shifte ... n-control/
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-shifte ... n-control/
Bar End Shift Levers
H-bar end fit
Power Ratchet friction control
Cables NOT included
No Index positions… works with all systems
- Cheeky Monkey
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Re: This should work, right?
Fingers crossed the latest delivery solves this:
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- Cheeky Monkey
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Re: This should work, right?
Fitted and so far it seems to have sorted the drivetrain issue. With a following wind I might get a shakedown ride in today / this week.
Incidentally, I always seem to lack cable end crimps when I'm building up bikes and trimming cables. So I bought one of those 100-for-£3-or-whatever packs recently. After searching high and low whilst fettling this weekend I can only conclude I left them in the bag they and the (inappropriate) SLX mech came in and has now gone in the bin. So I still have no crimps. Bag of arse!
Incidentally, I always seem to lack cable end crimps when I'm building up bikes and trimming cables. So I bought one of those 100-for-£3-or-whatever packs recently. After searching high and low whilst fettling this weekend I can only conclude I left them in the bag they and the (inappropriate) SLX mech came in and has now gone in the bin. So I still have no crimps. Bag of arse!
- Bearbonesnorm
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Re: This should work, right?
Pop a bit of heat shrink on it or simply solder itSo I still have no crimps. Bag of arse!
May the bridges you burn light your way
- Cheeky Monkey
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Re: This should work, right?
I am embarrassed to say that chuff knows where either of those items are in my garage. I tried the solder thing before but it kept "sliding" off. I seem to remember from schooldays you need a powder or some-such to help with soldering.
I am a chuffin' numpty at the mo
I am a chuffin' numpty at the mo