Best way to tubeless a fatty

[redefined_cycles]

Managed to acquire an OOF for the little one(thanks to Nige off here). Hoping to get it out myself a few times aswell if he'd allow..

Currently its running tubes inside it 4 inch wide tyres and wondering whats the strongest/lightest/cheapest (choose 2: I choose strong n light) way to tubeless these so I'm not seeping air every couple of weeks or whatever...

Thanks

[JohnClimber]

If it's the On One rims and floater tyres you will have a hard job sealing those they are not designed to be tubless but sold at a lower price point.
You can try the fattest possible 24" BMX inner tube to go tubless, and use Duct tape to fill it to the edges, but it's very hit and miss.

Best off search through a fat bike FB UK based group page like https://www.facebook.com/groups/260838637377100

If nothing shows up on the search ask them their thoughts.

[redefined_cycles]

Thanks John...

Yeah, its the OnOne fat tyres thats on just now but I also have some Vee Rubber 8 that he kindly gave me with the bike. I wonder whether they'll be better at sealing etc. Will check that link you mentioned (although dont have FB so might be interesting navigationally)...

Thanks

[ScotRoutes]

Different rims, but I used wide insulating tape. 3 times around - once at each edge and once in the middle.

Cheapo tubeless valves.

IMPORTANT Super P Nuts. https://problemsolversbike.com/products ... t_tubeless

Without these, I couldn't get the valve to actually tighten on the rim enough.

Stans Sealant

I also used a reservoir-type/tubeless pump. It's the only time I've ever needed to use one, I normally manage with a track pump.

I did my normal thing of inflating them with a tube, leaving them overnight, breaking one bead, removing the tube, fitting the valve, re-seating the bead and them pumping them up.

[whitestone]

Shaf, if you want sign up to fat-bike.co.uk there's a thread on there (that I started) about tubeless on fat bikes. Might also be worth looking through the fat bike sub-forum at MTBR - https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/.

Rims tend not to be much of a problem: seal the rim with tape or a split innertube/fatty stripper, put in the valve and you are good to go.

Tyres can vary, some, even tubeless ready, are trouble from the off, others are no problem at all.

[redefined_cycles]

Hmmm... Interesting. Hadn't thought bout the rims being single walled (had a problem with the higher pressures on road tubeless and made my own adaptation to manage the concentrated stress).

Sounds like my issue (Nige told me that they were a pain to seat tubeless and would lose pressure over the days/weeks if not used) mihht be related to the fact the rims are OnOnes as are the tyres.

I'm gonna take a guess that using a bit of drillium on the rims to drop some weight isn't gonna be a very smart idea!!...

Hmmm

[redefined_cycles]

*thanks Bob. Will bear that in mind bout the thread on that forum (went ahead just before you pisted and registering had put me off a little)...
Never thought I'd be considering and talking about fat bike fettling one day in my life

[ScotRoutes]

Drilled rims aren't a problem. Make sure you have some sort of thicker rim strip in place before you apply whatever your tubeless tape is.

The Fatty Stripper gets over the problem of the rims being single wall should you choose to go that route.

[Bearbonesnorm]

I did my On One rims using laminate floor underlay and gorilla tape. Bit of a faff but it worked okay. Tyres were Maxxis.

[redefined_cycles]

This made me smile.. less than 1100$ you say. Very cheap

[pistonbroke]

I was working at Planet X/On One when the Fatty was originally launched. As it was half the price of any of the competition, it sold like hot cakes, we built literally hundreds. They were full component builds which involved assembling tyres and tubes which was a time consuming ball-ache and slowing down the mechanics productivity. The job of doing this was therefore given to the company's village idiot to do all day long using a fairly low tech compressor to bang the tyres onto the rim which involved inflating to about 50psi then deflating them. He was easily distracted and was chatting whilst standing with the air line filling a tyre. It must have reached about 100psi before blowing off the rim and him off his feet and about 10ft across the warehouse. The bang made the rest of us deaf for about 2 hours. I'd be very wary about trying tubeless, the standard rims are crap and they will need a lot of air to seat properly.

[redefined_cycles]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xA7e2az8JT4

Then I should discount this straight out the window

[ScotRoutes]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xA7e2az8JT4

Then I should discount this straight out the window

That won't make any difference to the ability of the rim to run tubeless.

[redefined_cycles]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xA7e2az8JT4

Then I should discount this straight out the window

That won't make any difference to the ability of the rim to run tubeless.

From a strength POV after what Duncan said. To be fair though, 100 psi is alot of pressure for a rim thats that wide and planned to be run at 10ish psi.

Will see about getting some kit together and thinking about giving it a try...

[Charliecres]

I did the same as Stu with my On-One Fatty rims and Floater tyres. Once I’d packed out the rims to take up the slop in the tyres they seated easily and are still holding air about three or more years later.

[Jurassic]

I've done the underlay thing and also the ghetto split tube method on my OOF back in the day. Both worked and were reliable. The only problem with the split tube method is finding wide enough inner tubes with a Presta valve (and preferably removable core). From subsequent experience though I reckon you could bodge a Presta valve cut out of an old tube with a patch of tube left round it into a wide Schrader tube that you've pulled the valve out of and glue the Presta in to make your own liner. It saves worrying about rim tape coming unstuck if the sealant affects the adhesive (although it is a bit heavier than just taping the rim). With the underlay method I actually ended up with the tyre too tight and struggled to get the tyre out of the well of the rim and onto the beads. Lots of pressure and sealant acting as a lube allowed it to happen but it was a bit nerve wracking.

[Boab]

I did ghetto tubeless on my Calibre Dune, which I think had similar rims to the OOF. Decathlon camping map, duck tape, a couple of fat bike inner tubes and a whole truck load of OKO Offroad Sealant (not the best at sealing, but cheap), they went up fine with the compressor that came with my Fiesta. The tyres are still on the rims and still inflated, sitting in my shed, haven't had my fattie in over a year.

Having said all of that though. Get yourself a 15 psi pressure gauge, as I found myself adjusting the psi for pretty much every ride, depending on where I was going and what the underlying conditions were like. Everyone else will tell you they have a calibrated hand for testing their psi...

[ScotRoutes]

LOL. I'm one of those who has no idea of tyre pressures. I tend to just give it a squeeze to make sure it's not flat.

Having said that, I need to pay more attention now that I have suspension forks. Getting the balance between tyre squish/rebound and suspension travel is taking some practice and is very much dependent on route/terrain.

[whitestone]

as I found myself adjusting the psi for pretty much every ride, depending on where I was going and what the underlying conditions were like. Everyone else will tell you they have a calibrated hand for testing their psi...

Err, yeah!





Not completely sure what pressure I was running at but it was the only way to maintain traction in the snow!

[fatbikephil]

If you are going ghetto style on a non-tubeless rim I found cheap motorcycle innertubes worked well - something off a Honda C90 or similar (i.e. 2.75 x 17) worked well on rolling daryls and buds. (neither of which were tubeless)

For seating stretch a road bike inner tube round the outside of the tyre - it squashes the tyre beads onto the rim for the initial inflation.

[Jurassic]

For seating stretch a road bike inner tube round the outside of the tyre - it squashes the tyre beads onto the rim for the initial inflation.

I've been told that using a tie down strap (roof rack type) round the tyre can help in the same way (i.e. round the circumference of the tyre). I've not tried it but was assured that it works by a fat bike expert in the know.

[fatbikephil]

For seating stretch a road bike inner tube round the outside of the tyre - it squashes the tyre beads onto the rim for the initial inflation.

I've been told that using a tie down strap (roof rack type) round the tyre can help in the same way (i.e. round the circumference of the tyre). I've not tried it but was assured that it works by a fat bike expert in the know.

Yup it does too!

[Jurassic]

For seating stretch a road bike inner tube round the outside of the tyre - it squashes the tyre beads onto the rim for the initial inflation.

I've been told that using a tie down strap (roof rack type) round the tyre can help in the same way (i.e. round the circumference of the tyre). I've not tried it but was assured that it works by a fat bike expert in the know.

Yup it does too!

I need to have another go at my latest fat bike wheels. I had Nextie carbon rims and they were so easy to set up tubless but I broke the rear and swapped to DT Swiss BR 710s. After a brief initial (failed) attempt with the new wheels I lost patience and just bunged some tubes in. I'm running an Edna front Nate rear combo and they were pretty baggy on the DT rims but were nice and tight on the Nexties.

[fatbikephil]

I've got DT's on the ICT and they can be a bit temperamental even with JJ's which normally go on dead easy but occasionally require a fair bit of faffing. I've got the effeto mariposa rim strips (which are good but dear) which have proven fairly idiot proof.

[ScotRoutes]

It's DT Swiss rims and Jumbo Jims on my Cube.