Remind me how to make the thinking mans crown race setting tool

[redefined_cycles]

Purchased a 1 and a 1 and 1/8th over the years. Thinking mans tool for that used to be to use a stem and slide it on then whack the crown race home.

I do remwmber that plastic or copper pipes don't 2ork and a waste of time. Can't quite remember how I whacked home the last one that I've just removed (using a sharp knife begged off the missus then a blunt spade type tool to whack the rest off without damaging the race)..

Thanks

[redefined_cycles]

Am trying to whack home a 1.5 inch crown btw... my stem method won't quite work as it doesn't sit nicely around the thicker end of thw steerer. Its a Bontrager aswell so should've done the trick

[Cheeky Monkey]

Always done mine with a soft faced hammer. Only one that went wrong was an early Hope one that had an O ring on a groove on the race's edge.

Old style butter knives also make excellent removal tools. Generally, once you've raised it 1 or 2 mm the steerer narrows sharply and everything loosens easily.

[Retiredtester]

A length of plastic waste pipe of the appropriate diameter has always worked for me. Never had to fit a 1.5" crown race, but same principle should apply?

[ScotRoutes]

Assuming it's not actually a crown race, but is the bit you slide onto the steerer tube that the sealed bearing sits on...... then the tool you need is a saw.

Just cut a gap in it and banish the issue permanently.

[redefined_cycles]

Assuming it's not actually a crown race, but is the bit you slide onto the steerer tube that the sealed bearing sits on...... then the tool you need is a saw.

Just cut a gap in it and banish the issue permanently.

Aha... is that specific thijg you mentioned. Alqays thought its called a crown race

[ScotRoutes]

Yeah, it's a common misconception. The balls don't run on it, so it's not a race. Chris King call it a Baseplate..

[jameso]

I've fitted a few with an old headset cup, flipped so the narrow section (bit that goes into the headtube) sits against the race, then knock it on by working around it evenly. No good for really tight fits but fine otherwise. Might not work with 1.5s but the principle applies. Also used the cup as a reducer so a larger tube can be used to slide-hammer it on. I used to have a crown race setter, it went missing to that mystery spares location that also has a big bag of brake blocks that I need a few of at the mo.

Old style butter knives also make excellent removal tools. Generally, once you've raised it 1 or 2 mm the steerer narrows sharply and everything loosens easily.

They do if you're not the cack-handed owner of a nice carbon steerer fork who sliced into the steerer quite effectively using a cutlery knife and a hammer (not me or anyone I know, I just saw the result)

[Boab]

While we're on the subject, how tight are those split ones supposed to sit on the fork? My old fatbike one doesn't have a split and is well wedged onto the fork. The one I installed on my RAG+ comes off, the moment you drop the fork. It doesn't seem to go down any further, but I'm wondering if a bit of pipe and a hammer might be a wise experiment...?

[Lazarus]

i agree with sawing it as it makes fitting and removal very easy and makes no difference to functionality

I always call it a crown race - whether this is technically correct or not I am sure its the accepted term.
I assume historically they did run on them but sealed bearings dont and the name has stuck.

EDIT: I amnot sure what you mean by not tight -you can move it up and down on and off easily but it is not lose -might move if i invert the fork but I have never tried
Either way of it is at the bootom of your fork with no gap and tensioning the top cap will do this . i would not be worried assuming it rides fine

[Cheeky Monkey]

James - yes indeed, I think the knife technique is one best suited to metal steerers.

As said, creating your own split race is a potential solution. I just use Hope sets which are all split now (AFAIK), only have to fanny round with older bikes or other people's.

Tightness, hard to say. If when fitted it feels solid I'd not worry. IME some are quite easy to remove but I've never had one just drop off.

[ScotRoutes]

It should rest on the crown. There shouldn't be a gap. If it's split then, yeah, it might just fall off if you turn the fork upside down.

Remember, the inner part of the "baseplate" is conical and fits into a matching angled recess on the actual bearing race. As you preload the headset, the two mesh and the slot gets narrower.

[jameso]

James - yes indeed, I think the knife technique is one best suited to metal steerers.

You'd not want to let something like knife mark any steerer in that way at that point, but yes I know what you mean.

Colin's right on splitting them, especially the thinner or more minimal races that can spring back in under minimal vertical pressure from the top cap. I've used an old FSA Orbit XL split design crown race with a few headsets that the taper angle suited, convenient when swapping sample sus forks fairly regularly a number of years back. I've only cut-split one that was a tight fit on a crown that measured up as it should, was no problem.

[redefined_cycles]

Yeah, it's a common misconception. The balls don't run on it, so it's not a race. Chris King call it a Baseplate..

Now I finally understsnd why Chris King (I thought) were trying to be different. Dave... if you lsitening then it might explain what I've removed to send to you... I've removed a crown race but replacing with a 'baseplate'. Ta v much Colin...

[redefined_cycles]

Right... this what I did. Got a 3m pipe for £4... used bearing at the crown race end and a bearing press to ensure the top doesn't deform when I whacked it. Anyone wnats one. Lemme know and I'll cut you one out.. for 1.5 inch crown races/base plates only

[ScotRoutes]

[redefined_cycles]

Lol... Well I staryed off with my carbon friendly saw.. but quickly moved on to an Irwin wood cutter

[Zippy]

I have some old henry hoover tube, with the plastic end - that works nicely for 1 1/8. for tapered and 1.5", I've used a holesaw on some wood to make the correct size wooden crown race setting tool and twatted that with an oversized tube so it's nice and even downward force.

In fact - you can see me make it here... https://youtu.be/EP7uoCqBsU0?t=28

[redefined_cycles]

I have some old henry hoover tube, with the plastic end - that works nicely for 1 1/8. for tapered and 1.5", I've used a holesaw on some wood to make the correct size wooden crown race setting tool and twatted that with an oversized tube so it's nice and even downward force.

In fact - you can see me make it here... https://youtu.be/EP7uoCqBsU0?t=28

Thanks Zip... wow, wish I could build a bik that fast