Looking at purchasing a sus forks for my new frame should I buy a boost one. Would I be daft not to?.

I haven't got boost front wheel atm but I can convert mine with a kit (hope pro 2)

I would personally in order to follow the zeitgeist.

johnnystorm wrote: ↑Wed Sep 11, 2019 6:23 pm I would personally in order to follow the zeitgeist.

.

Will all good hubs in the future be boost?

Probably.

I am a bit stuck on non-boost. I have lots of wheels all very serviceable with great parts. That aren’t going to die anytime soon so I’m sticking with them.
I’m increasingly finding that stuff to with them such as forks is an issue.
If you are buying new forks and convert your hub easily then I guess you should do so.
I really hate the constant changing of ‘standards’ and the consequent lack of backwards compatibility.
I like to buy things that last and that don’t cause problems. I have Royce BB and Miidleburn cranks - 68mm BS and square taper 5 arm ATB pattern, Rohloff 135mm qr, Schmidt SON front hub 100mm QR. All works fine. I recently bought an old Fargo to fit it all onto.
It’s not that I don’t like change more that I don’t want to change stuff just because marketers want me to.

I feel the same way but can't do much with fork standard's

Current bikes are both normal hub spacing and non tapered forks.
One is a 26"

This is the kit for my hub. You can buy one that's half the price but wheel needs re dishing
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.MRP-Better-Boo ... eAQAvD_BwE#

jay91 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 11, 2019 6:31 pm Will all good hubs in the future be boost?

All good hubs in the future will be another 'standard' they dream up next

I only stuck with a non-boost fork as I had a dyno wheel that can't be converted, otherwise I'd have gone boost as it's getting harder to find non-boost forks and especially hard to find a bargain.

They're be 115mm next year

Jay... I'm very resistant of change and new standards which has ended up sometimes costing me lovely bits of kit*. Hence am now of the opinion that you shoukd ensure when buying new, to future proof it...

As to whether Boost is here to stay like some of the BB standards (although now some are reverting back to good old threadeds but only as back as outboard I s'pose) is something for you to decide. But if the non boost forks are starting to hold their value it (probably (but am sure someone will explain why my theory is skewered)) means that more manufactuers are turning their efforts and investments into boost... Using that thinking, I'd just look for the bargain boost forks...

Go Boost and thus futureproof you product (hopefully) for the next so many years...

*a Condor retro 1 inch headtube frame which I managed to get going with some adaotations to run oversized stem... but then in the end I just couldn't get on with the suprr skinny tires of upto 25c as it didnt give clesrnace for owt bigger... bwfore that my lovely Indeoendent Fabrication Steel deluxe which wouldn't take a dropper post (cos it was 27.2mm internal seattube and droppers are expensive to find in that iteration

Go boost if you want to run big tyres. Be aware that the kits to boost hubs usually mean you have some pain in the arse spacers that drop off when you take the wheel out, and would be a serious inconvenience to lose out in the 'boonies'.

Boost is a bit marmite in my opinion - not because it transforms your ride (I couldn't notice), but because it makes all you spare wheels etc etc obsolete. My expensive SON dynamo wheel now only fits 1 bike (the non boost one). I've got the full range now: QR, 15mm Maxle and Boost.

If you do go for it, just have a look at your bike shed and figure out whether having mix and match of wheels and forks matters to you.

I'd go for boost, simply because it's become widespread, not only for trailbikes. Even my everyday bike, a generic Taiwan steel frame, is boost.

I was lucky enough to go on a longish trip, so sold a few bikes prior and when I got new ones, boost was already quite common. It's just a question of time.
I don't think I can sense any difference, but as stated before, the tyre clearance is great.

I've a SON , DT350 and a Hope - all in boost, for the Hope I still have the QR caps and will soon be able to make use of them

boxelder wrote: ↑Wed Sep 11, 2019 10:44 pm Be aware that the kits to boost hubs usually mean you have some pain in the arse spacers that drop off when you take the wheel out, and would be a serious inconvenience to lose out in the 'boonies'

"Usually"? Any examples?

I've had only good experience, these include Hope and DT. They are well "sticky" enough and don't just pop out.

I bought a boost sus fork because it was a good bargain at the time - decided to keep the rigid Travers Prong (non boost)
I've got 2 front wheels at the moment and change them when I change the fork over

slarge wrote: ↑Thu Sep 12, 2019 7:40 am I've got the full range now: QR, 15mm Maxle and Boost.

You're forgetting 20mm, I've still got the adapters from when I had a 26" Pike U Turn. I've kept them for when they reinvent this standard

sean_iow wrote: ↑Thu Sep 12, 2019 10:04 am

slarge wrote: ↑Thu Sep 12, 2019 7:40 am I've got the full range now: QR, 15mm Maxle and Boost.

You're forgetting 20mm, I've still got the adapters from when I had a 26" Pike U Turn. I've kept them for when they reinvent this standard

I'll see your bid and raise you a couple of Mavericks

Redefined_cylces
I think I'll go for the boost forks.



Boxelder
The mpr one I posted above is meant to be the best so I may give that a try.


Slarge
It'll be one boost 29r and the old 26r inbred
So not too bad.

Alpinum
Most of the fork's I've been looking at are all boost so I'll go that way

Mart
Which fork have you got?

Non Boost = Travers Prong QR
Boost = Rockshox SID 15mm axle

Welcome to come over and have a look