Shaf - I wouldn't use rivnuts on a carbon frame, on a steel or aluminium frame they'll be fine.

https://bikepacking.com/gear/rivnut-bottle-cage-mounts/ tells you most of what you need to know. Bottle cage bosses are 64mm centres, Salsa Anything Cage mounts are three such bosses also at 64mm centres.

If you use the Rivnut applicator tool then it's worth practicing on something like a food can (consume the contents first!) as the point at which you need to stop pressing the handles together isn't the fully closed position. Drilling thin steel is also something that needs a bit of practice - larger bits have a tendency to tear the metal which is why I used a step drill bit.

Thanks a bundle Bob... Thats a great assett in building up my commuter (Columbus Italian handmade Bertoletti steel frame, meant to be nice but I'm the second from ebay owner) which I've already drilled a hole in previously for Di2 duties. Whats another hole or 2 especially when we're making them better

Stopped for lunch and run out of steerer spacers.
P1220657 (1024x576) by michaelwex10, on Flickr

Mariner wrote: ↑Wed Jan 08, 2020 3:03 pm Stopped for lunch and run out of steerer spacers.
P1220657 (1024x576) by michaelwex10, on Flickr

Let me know what sizes you need. I've managed to gather a small arsenal over the years. Will try and get in the post for Friday if thats any good. Was gonna say to 'just cover postage' but it'll probably be less than a quid so not worth getting your Visa card out for that ... erm... do let me know exact sizings both in terms of hieght and steerer dimensions (i know.. I got hieght wrong I think)

oh sorry Mariner.. I just looked at the pic. Ignore me...

redefined_cycles wrote: ↑Wed Jan 08, 2020 8:36 pm oh sorry Mariner.. I just looked at the pic. Ignore me...

Thanks anyway.

Slow day on the assembly line.
I was hoping to have had my first tentative ride up and down the road by now but I discovered late yesterday that the front brake caliper rubs on the spokes. Even with the pad backed right off and the caliper pushed outboard to the end of the slots there is just fag paper clearance. I estimate that going up one size of rotor will work so down to the lbs this morning to get a 180mm rotor and PM adapter only to find they don’t stock such exotic items anymore. Ordered online but as it is the weekend assume it will be Monday/Tuesday before the first ride.
So just spuddled about today checking things and torqued up the critical bits then measured and fitted the chain. Why do pre-load bearings like the headset and HT2 cranks always relax after they have been fitted? I can feel play in the headset and got another easy quarter turn on the crank pre-load. Set the saddle height and bars seem to be the right height by accident.
The Rockshox are a bit strange as they are solid not bouncy. The SRAM online tuning guide tells me it should be set to 121 psi. They are just solid at that so let all the air out and re set to 121 psi and again no movement. Then I sat on the bike and reduced the pressure until I got to 20% sag which was round 96 psi. Its not scientific but it means the forks move and gives me something to work with.
This was a planned assembly with all parts here waiting until the frame arrived so a bit miffed that the front brake caliper has delayed things. It is not the first time these wheels have been used with a mechanical disc caliper as I used BB7s previously but they must to be slimmer than Spyke.

I'd picked a Gorilla Cage up from Stu at the weekend. So having drilled the holes and fitted the Rivnuts it was time to fit the bolts ...

A bit of loctite on the bolts, put on the big plastic washer things and fitted them. Now for the moment of truth, fitting the cage itself. You know the old adage: "measure twice, cut (or drill) once"? Well, I'd done it right

The bolts will be virtually permanent, hence the loctite, having three open holes on the underside of the downtube just above the bottom bracket is probably not the best idea.

Mariner wrote: ↑Fri Jan 10, 2020 11:05 pm The Rockshox are a bit strange as they are solid not bouncy. The SRAM online tuning guide tells me it should be set to 121 psi. They are just solid at that so let all the air out and re set to 121 psi and again no movement. Then I sat on the bike and reduced the pressure until I got to 20% sag which was round 96 psi. Its not scientific but it means the forks move and gives me something to work with.

Sounds like the compression damping was closed/locked..?

Sounds like the compression damping was closed/locked..?

Tried them again yesterday and they feel a little easier but by no means plush.

Fitted the cheapo Clement tyres that arrived yesterday. I also discovered that I've dented my rear rim, most likely for clattering that pothole on Sunday morning.

Final bits fitted cabled up and had a tentative first ride up and down the road this afternoon. No ceremony just decide it was time so with my jeans tucked in my socks no helmet and my cardigan flapping in the wind I just took it off the stand flung a leg over and went. First impression is I need a longer stem. Forks are working better and everything that can be adjusted needs adjusting. Just fine tuning now and working out why I only have 9 gears instead of 11 at the rear. Gearing might be a bit low as I lifted the front wheel at one point.

I have been about ten or eleven months without a bike – apart from my Brompton – so really pleased to finally have a proper big bike again.

There is a new Stooge in town.

Started with this:-

Ended with this:-

Mariner wrote: ↑Wed Jan 08, 2020 3:03 pm Stopped for lunch and run out of steerer spacers.
P1220657 (1024x576) by michaelwex10, on Flickr

Hi, which g ones do you have there and which wheel size? Also could you tell me the gearing to make the most of those speedy tyres you are using?
Cheers

htrider wrote: ↑Fri Jan 17, 2020 9:57 pm Started with this:-

Ended with this:-

Nice the perspective of the picture makes the chainring and cog look like they're the same size

Hi, which g ones do you have there and which wheel size? Also could you tell me the gearing to make the most of those speedy tyres you are using?
Cheers

These are G-One Allround 57-622 SS TLE bought them to replace Big Apple 2 29x2.35.
I will swap between these and the new Schwalbe Hurricane when available in UK.

Wheels are 29er XM481 rims on 240s hubs and gearing is currently 2x11 34/24 and 11-42.
Only ridden it up the road and back but I have to admit I probably went too low.

sean_iow wrote: ↑Fri Jan 17, 2020 11:24 pm Nice the perspective of the picture makes the chainring and cog look like they're the same size

They nearly were but I figured it would be a bit spinny Actually 30/20.....

Serviced the rear hub on my Cube road bike.

I had it on the stand for a wash and, after washing it, spun up rear wheel to check gear changing etc. I was very surprised to see how much drag there was in the freehub - it was really pushing the pedals round. When I stopped the pedals rotating it was like I was putting the brakes on gently.

Two 5mm "Allen" keys had it apart for a degrease, bearing check (all fine) and a light re-oiling with some mineral brake oil. Back on the stand, spin it up, let go of the pedals and they were stationary. Job done. Might make me a wee bit faster on the descents!

Currently in a house of Dutch riders fitting ice studs to several sets of fat tyres including Cath’s.

More rubber than a porn convention

Fitted some Kyoti bars, and rode to the beer shop via the park. The bike feels like a massive BMX.

Gone all 'ipster and made some bar end plugs from some prosecco corks.

Started by using my Dremel to grind them down, thought I'd set off the workshop fire alarm with the dust (turned out to be a test) and moved onto a hacksaw.

Also put some bar tape on my geoff bars. Trying that not only to give me more places to rest my hands but with a vague attempt at stopping the bag harness sliding around.

Having managed to break the suspension forks on both my mountain bikes at Strathpuffer, I thought I'd better do something about it... So I put the fat bike rigid front end onto my hardtail. Feels great! Except for forgetting to tighten the stem bolts and setting off to get the kids from school. A tad scary as I steer right and left but the fat 9 psi tyre does its own thing!

Hopefully next week's submission is "serviced some 2015 recon golds and some original Pikes and both now actually move" but I'm contemplating going single speed as I've not had one in about 10 years

My ride last night was curtailed by what I initially though was a loose pedal but when I stopped to check the crank arm nearly fell off! I shoved it back on noticing that the crank arms were now pointing in different directions and walked the last 4 miles or so home. I took the crank arm off this morning, cleaned off the threads, seal and spacer and stuck everything back together. Everything seems to work but I’ll get a pro to check that no lasting damage was done. I also need to make sure I put a 8mm Allan key in my toolkit!

PaulB2 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 01, 2020 11:35 am My ride last night was curtailed by what I initially though was a loose pedal but when I stopped to check the crank arm nearly fell off! I shoved it back on noticing that the crank arms were now pointing in different directions and walked the last 4 miles or so home. I took the crank arm off this morning, cleaned off the threads, seal and spacer and stuck everything back together. Everything seems to work but I’ll get a pro to check that no lasting damage was done. I also need to make sure I put a 8mm Allan key in my toolkit!

Paul... might I ask, is an SRAM crank arm by any chance??

redefined_cycles wrote: ↑Sat Feb 01, 2020 7:21 pm
Paul... might I ask, is an SRAM crank arm by any chance??

No, it was the Praxis Alba 48/32 on my gravel bike. The cranks had sounded a bit rough but I just put it down to the constant wet sandy surface I was on. I guess I’ll just need to check the cranks more often than once a year :)