Aha... thanks for the info. I used to have that issue (once on my cranks and once a mates... Hence I also bought my allen key set to enauee it contained an 8mm) years ago. Moved over to Shimano (and also started accumulating my own tools and trying to do my own work as well as a bit of building and repairs for others) and thankfully never had to experience that issue again...
Another thing I noticed (this was almost 10 years ago) was that when I started doing my own (OCD self as opposed to professional shop work) work, suddenly my bottom brackets also started lasting considerably longer. Maybe my shop mechanics theory of his torque-calibrated arm wasn't actually as good as my (borrowed from dad but never quite gone back) cheap Draper torque wrench
Anyway... hope you dont have to experience that 4 mile walk again
Fitted some Tannus Armour under the rear tyre. Hopefully this will reduce the number of rear wheel punctures. If it goes well, I might consider one for the front too.
Replaced the rear brake cable and outer on the fat bike. Had got a bit stiff so the lever wouldn't return and the cable-lever interface had taken a bit of a knock so the outer was damaged. Main problem was that the frame uses bolt on cable guides rather than cradles and zip-ties so it's a bit fiddly getting things back together.
Better weight than wisdom, a traveller cannot carry
Not today but tuther day... noticed my old chain was just about (if I pushed in the measuring tool) hitting the 0.75 percent of wear. So swapped it out for my other used chain which hopefully will give me some more miles without affe ting the rings ans sprockets too adversely
Gregsie wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 9:33 pm
Supernova rear light fitted to the Longitude today.
Came with a seatpost clamp which would be fine and dandy if I was not using a seatpack. Hidden by the back guard if placed at the bottom of the post.
Moved it to one of the seatstays and used an alternative shorter o'ring to fasten it on along with a couple of zip ties for good luck.
Also fitted a front Mudhugger. Had to drill a couple of extra holes so it fitted the rigid forks. A bit tight with 29 x 2.6"s on but we'll see how much it gets clagged up.
Also got a couple of Lomo dry bags - a lot cheaper off their site than on their eBay store.
Keen to see this. Trying to figure out where to put a rear light on my longitude. I've got a B&M Secula but its too big to go on the seatpost with a Koala as well. Ideally I want a smaller rear light but not enough to spend 60 quid on a son one.
Gregsie wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 9:33 pm
Supernova rear light fitted to the Longitude today.
Came with a seatpost clamp which would be fine and dandy if I was not using a seatpack. Hidden by the back guard if placed at the bottom of the post.
Moved it to one of the seatstays and used an alternative shorter o'ring to fasten it on along with a couple of zip ties for good luck.
Also fitted a front Mudhugger. Had to drill a couple of extra holes so it fitted the rigid forks. A bit tight with 29 x 2.6"s on but we'll see how much it gets clagged up.
Also got a couple of Lomo dry bags - a lot cheaper off their site than on their eBay store.
Keen to see this. Trying to figure out where to put a rear light on my longitude. I've got a B&M Secula but its too big to go on the seatpost with a Koala as well. Ideally I want a smaller rear light but not enough to spend 60 quid on a son one.
I'll take a photo in the morning of it and post it up. Done 300k with it attached and it's as solid as. FWIW the o'ring was from a Garmin Edge mount.
Gregsie wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 9:33 pm
Supernova rear light fitted to the Longitude today.
Came with a seatpost clamp which would be fine and dandy if I was not using a seatpack. Hidden by the back guard if placed at the bottom of the post.
Moved it to one of the seatstays and used an alternative shorter o'ring to fasten it on along with a couple of zip ties for good luck.
Also fitted a front Mudhugger. Had to drill a couple of extra holes so it fitted the rigid forks. A bit tight with 29 x 2.6"s on but we'll see how much it gets clagged up.
Also got a couple of Lomo dry bags - a lot cheaper off their site than on their eBay store.
Keen to see this. Trying to figure out where to put a rear light on my longitude. I've got a B&M Secula but its too big to go on the seatpost with a Koala as well. Ideally I want a smaller rear light but not enough to spend 60 quid on a son one.
if you are after a budget option a "Smart 7 LED Rear Light" comes with fittings for both seatpost and seatstay. Use it seatstay mounted on both the Longitude and the Sutra. Maybe not the best rear light in the world but does the job(for me) and iirc was under £10 when I bought it a few year ago. Claimed visible at 1 mile. Quick search seems to be discontinued now
This one looks similar: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Smart-Polaris- ... B002Q4TZEK
Gregsie wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 9:33 pm
Supernova rear light fitted to the Longitude today.
Came with a seatpost clamp which would be fine and dandy if I was not using a seatpack. Hidden by the back guard if placed at the bottom of the post.
Moved it to one of the seatstays and used an alternative shorter o'ring to fasten it on along with a couple of zip ties for good luck.
Also fitted a front Mudhugger. Had to drill a couple of extra holes so it fitted the rigid forks. A bit tight with 29 x 2.6"s on but we'll see how much it gets clagged up.
Also got a couple of Lomo dry bags - a lot cheaper off their site than on their eBay store.
Keen to see this. Trying to figure out where to put a rear light on my longitude. I've got a B&M Secula but its too big to go on the seatpost with a Koala as well. Ideally I want a smaller rear light but not enough to spend 60 quid on a son one.
I'll take a photo in the morning of it and post it up. Done 300k with it attached and it's as solid as. FWIW the o'ring was from a Garmin Edge mount.
Looking at the above photo it looks like you could remove the bracket and bolt it straight to the rack mount? I have the son rack mount rear, it’s zip tied to my alternator dropout, due to the shape and holes in the dropout plate it fits perfectly, could do with being a little higher though.
Using the rack mount looks like a great idea. There are so few seat stay mounted dynamo lights and the angles of the stays on the longitude put the light at an odd angle. I'll keep tinkering
BigdummySteve wrote: ↑Fri Feb 07, 2020 7:02 am
Looking at the above photo it looks like you could remove the bracket and bolt it straight to the rack mount? I have the son rack mount rear, it’s zip tied to my alternator dropout, due to the shape and holes in the dropout plate it fits perfectly, could do with being a little higher though.
Problem is the light bolt is a different thread to the rack mount. (Think it's M2 at a guess). Did think about getting a M4 bolt with an M2 thread inside it or making a bracket and tapping an M2 thread at one end and an M4 size hole at the other to provide a neater solution, but time and other things got in the way so it's on my to do list.
Just get medieval on it, big drill to enlarge the hole and bobs yer uncle
you mileage may vary, no responsibility is implied or given to results from reckless advice given in respect to rear light fettling.
Use of power tool could and most likely will result in injury and/or death. Bikepacking is an inherently dangerous and stinky endeavour, by modifying equipment outside manufacturers recommendations you run the risk of invalidating any warranty, on the plus side of it works you will be a DIY god
BigdummySteve wrote: ↑Fri Feb 07, 2020 8:55 pm
Just get medieval on it, big drill to enlarge the hole and bobs yer uncle
you mileage may vary, no responsibility is implied or given to results from reckless advice given in respect to rear light fettling.
Use of power tool could and most likely will result in injury and/or death. Bikepacking is an inherently dangerous and stinky endeavour, by modifying equipment outside manufacturers recommendations you run the risk of invalidating any warranty, on the plus side of it works you will be a DIY god
As someone who managed to get a CSE grade 4 in woodwork and can accidentally break Tonka toys, the chance of jeopardy is high.
ctznsmith wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 9:19 pm
They're a bugger to get the wheel in and out of though especially when you have a disc caliper trying to stop the disc moving side to side.
Landslide wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 8:22 pm
What's the axle on the front wheel, and how nicely does it play with the through axle dropouts?
It's the allen key axle that came with the SON 28 hub I used to have. Seems to work fine.
Those drop outs are just standard dropouts that are closed at the bottom though as far as I can tell so any axle should work. Is this not the case?
They're a bugger to get the wheel in and out of though especially when you have a disc caliper trying to stop the disc moving side to side.
Forks are designed for a 9mm through axle on the MK1 / Mk2 Escapade. Keep playing with the idea of fitting a suitable hub on mine but think they are as rare as rocking horse poo so struggle on with a QR type. Found if I undo the caliper bolts it makes life a little easier.
Managed to get an early finish from work, so I stripped my genesis and scrubbed everything clean and started to build up my new surly frame. Unfortunately fading light means it won't get finished until tomorrow.
TheBrownDog wrote: ↑Sun Feb 16, 2020 7:58 pm
That is superb. I actually made a weird guttural noise when I saw the pic. The gumwall tyres pushed me over the edge. Orrsum bike.
Thanks, I'm really looking forward to getting out on it, I had a straggler but unfortunately had to sell it a few years back to repair a van. It's the only bike I've ever regretted selling, I won't be selling this one.
Stragglers are great. I've bashed mine around all sorts of stuff over the last three years. Its currently SS which had been highly entertaining this winter....
