Anyone been bikepacking around Crete and have any thoughts, opinions or advice to offer up?
Was dead set on Morocco but those tourists getting mostly beheaded (and most certainly dead) in the Atlas mountains has gotten the wifey all worried.
So thinking about Crete.
Quick/cheap/easy to get to.
Lots of remote hills, nice looking trails and yet never far from lovely beaches and nice food.
Looks like it could be a winner!
Any intel muchly appreciated.....
Cheers, Gairy.
Crete?
Moderators: Bearbonesnorm, Taylor, Chew
-
TheBrownDog
- Posts: 2107
- Joined: Thu Mar 14, 2013 8:46 pm
- Location: Chilterns
Re: Crete?
I've cycle toured Crete a couple of times, as well as holidaying there with the family, and love the place. Wonderful friendly people, stunning beaches, brilliant food and a lot of interesting history.
The cycling is pretty good too, though navigating off road can be tough. I didn't have much of a map, but there may well be some good ones available now. There are miles and miles of nice gravel roads but many of them turn out to be someone's driveway, and you basically have to backtrack.
Wild camping is illegal but mostly it's only policed in the national park and on the beaches, where a lot of folks park up caravans and campervans. Elsewhere as long as you get out of site and don't light fires, you should be fine. I once dossed in a public park and was woken quite early by a dear elderly lady who gave me tea and bread for breakfast. If memory serves, it's perfectly legal to sleep on the beaches in a bivvy bag, but not a tent. And there are a lot of beaches. And loads of campsites too if you feel like a shower.
The western end is the best bit, at least it was 10 years ago when I was last there. Fly into Chania (an utterly stunning medieval port) on the Akrotiri Peninsula and go from there. The eastern end is more developed and littered with cafes selling a full English breakfast. Avoid it. Actually, Rethimno is worth a visit with its massive fort. And the Samaria Gorge National Park is brilliant. I cant remember if you're allowed to cycle on the gorge path - there must be a guide book that will tell you.
In the off season a lot of the tavernas close down. It can also be pretty cold and wet. At any time of year, the ground can be like concrete, so take very strong stakes and a few spares. Watch out for stray dogs. They're very common and some are very mean. I took to carrying some rocks in my jersey pocket to see them off.
Something worth doing is checking out deserted villages as bivvy spots. There are loads of them, abandoned for all sorts of reasons through the centuries, and the ruins can offer good shelter and great views. There are also a lot of unfinished homes, many just left to rot when money ran out half way through the build. Pick you spots carefully though as some will be lived in. Rule One definitely applies.
Do learn a few words of Greek - it's easy and the Cretans really appreciate visitors making an effort.
Dammit ... reliving some great memories now and just pulled out the photo albums. Might have to go back there soon.
The cycling is pretty good too, though navigating off road can be tough. I didn't have much of a map, but there may well be some good ones available now. There are miles and miles of nice gravel roads but many of them turn out to be someone's driveway, and you basically have to backtrack.
Wild camping is illegal but mostly it's only policed in the national park and on the beaches, where a lot of folks park up caravans and campervans. Elsewhere as long as you get out of site and don't light fires, you should be fine. I once dossed in a public park and was woken quite early by a dear elderly lady who gave me tea and bread for breakfast. If memory serves, it's perfectly legal to sleep on the beaches in a bivvy bag, but not a tent. And there are a lot of beaches. And loads of campsites too if you feel like a shower.
The western end is the best bit, at least it was 10 years ago when I was last there. Fly into Chania (an utterly stunning medieval port) on the Akrotiri Peninsula and go from there. The eastern end is more developed and littered with cafes selling a full English breakfast. Avoid it. Actually, Rethimno is worth a visit with its massive fort. And the Samaria Gorge National Park is brilliant. I cant remember if you're allowed to cycle on the gorge path - there must be a guide book that will tell you.
In the off season a lot of the tavernas close down. It can also be pretty cold and wet. At any time of year, the ground can be like concrete, so take very strong stakes and a few spares. Watch out for stray dogs. They're very common and some are very mean. I took to carrying some rocks in my jersey pocket to see them off.
Something worth doing is checking out deserted villages as bivvy spots. There are loads of them, abandoned for all sorts of reasons through the centuries, and the ruins can offer good shelter and great views. There are also a lot of unfinished homes, many just left to rot when money ran out half way through the build. Pick you spots carefully though as some will be lived in. Rule One definitely applies.
Do learn a few words of Greek - it's easy and the Cretans really appreciate visitors making an effort.
Dammit ... reliving some great memories now and just pulled out the photo albums. Might have to go back there soon.
I'm just going outside ...
-
TheBrownDog
- Posts: 2107
- Joined: Thu Mar 14, 2013 8:46 pm
- Location: Chilterns
Re: Crete?
I'm just going outside ...
Re: Crete?
Been there on holibobs once. Was very nice. Lots of very steep hills around Elounda from what I remember, some very nice restaurants too. Might be worth a trip to Spinalonga while you're there, take a look at the old leper colony.
Re: Crete?
Interested if others fancy going.
-
In Reverse
- Posts: 1820
- Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:08 pm
- Location: Manchester
Re: Crete?
Interested 
I've considered it as a good spot for sunny winter riding, but flights seem to be either non-existent or v expensive out-of-season.
I've considered it as a good spot for sunny winter riding, but flights seem to be either non-existent or v expensive out-of-season.
-
gairym
- Posts: 3138
- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:05 am
- Location: Chamonix, France (but a Yorkshire lad).
Re: Crete?
Morning all,
Cheers for the info, much to consider.
I'm planning on doing a trip in early June so all would be welcome.
But if not then you folks should do a spring trip and then let me know everything you find out.
Cheers, Gairy.
Cheers for the info, much to consider.
I'm planning on doing a trip in early June so all would be welcome.
But if not then you folks should do a spring trip and then let me know everything you find out.
Cheers, Gairy.
-
ZeroDarkBivi
- Posts: 1267
- Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2014 9:18 am
- Location: Somerset
Re: Crete?
Interested, but like everything else for 2019, I don’t know when I will be able to take leave until I settle in to the new job.
Re: Crete?
I cycled toured the western side in June 2015 and it was very hot (only time I've ever seem my Garmin hit 50 deg C). I also went a self organised MTB holiday years ago and stayed in Plakias. Way back then there weren't any decent maps but we used the Sunflower walking and touring guidebooks
which were excellent for planning tours and local information.
http://sunflowerbooks.co.uk/product/wal ... rete-west/.
Crete is a stunning place with amazing beaches, fantastic people and lots of history. Before I went I never appreciated the significance of the place during WW2 and the huge part played by the Cretan resistance. I'd recommend reading the Cretan Runner before you go to get a real flavour of it and don't miss the Preveii monastery which the allies used to get SOE ashore and soldiers evacuated.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cretan-Runner- ... 0140273220
I would love to be going back.
which were excellent for planning tours and local information.
http://sunflowerbooks.co.uk/product/wal ... rete-west/.
Crete is a stunning place with amazing beaches, fantastic people and lots of history. Before I went I never appreciated the significance of the place during WW2 and the huge part played by the Cretan resistance. I'd recommend reading the Cretan Runner before you go to get a real flavour of it and don't miss the Preveii monastery which the allies used to get SOE ashore and soldiers evacuated.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cretan-Runner- ... 0140273220
I would love to be going back.
-
In Reverse
- Posts: 1820
- Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:08 pm
- Location: Manchester
Re: Crete?
^^ Just ordered that.
-
gairym
- Posts: 3138
- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:05 am
- Location: Chamonix, France (but a Yorkshire lad).
Re: Crete?
Ouchy!!!joesteve wrote:I cycled toured the western side in June 2015 and it was very hot (only time I've ever seem my Garmin hit 50 deg C).
To be fair the monthly average for June is only 27/19°c (day/night temps) which is about perfect.
Practically no sleeping bag needed and very little kit (other than suncream and water) during the day.
I think I'm pretty much sold on it as a destination.
Went there in '92 and couldn't get over how good it looked to ride. Never been back but über keen.