There go my col finish sprints then. '50-60% of his performance level' - any links for more? I understood that a regular output/HR relationship when at altitude meant you were acclimatised but not sure where the 'effort high up' thing came from.
I only found some outtakes of F. Bergholds book - most probably "Handbuch der Trekking- und Expeditionsmedizin"
"Der Leistungsgrad („Tourenzähler“)
darf jedenfalls während der gesamten Akklimatisationsphase
50 % bis 60 % der trainingsbedingten Maximalleistung
nicht überschreiten. Für eine allfällige ergänzende Pulsmessung
gelten im Sinne des „Prinzips der Unterforderung“ folgende
ungefähre Obergrenzen: Etwa 120/Minute für ältere und etwa
140/Minute für jüngere Personen.
Man muss also in der Akklimatisationsphase [...]"
http://www.bergundsteigen.at/file.php/a ... ion%29.pdf
Sorry no other links I know of except for the books I posted before, all from Franz Berthold.
Actually it's the first time I come across "140 bpm for younger persons".
(is 36 y still "younger person"? I'm sure it is
But I must say I've not yet come across the (high) "effort high up".
The thing is, in the past 20 year many new studies on this topic have in some cases validated rules of thumb and experience of some, and in other cases not.
jameso wrote:So in fact I might be simply getting myself used to the feeling or effort-output rate, but not doing anything positive for adaptation? (Craig, apologies for the duff tip in that case!)
Perhaps you gave it some more, say 15 % beyond the suggested figures by F. Berghold, but were breathing at 25 %, kicking the oxygen levels up for a moment. On the other hand we should not forget all this talk is about 2500 m and beyond. A French col is at these lower limits by which I don't think one has to play by the rules to go strong. But then I expose myself regularly to Alpine highs. Will likely be different if you live at 300 m asl and go beyond 2500 m 2/year for a few weeks, I guess.
These are the signs for successful acclimatisation:
- heart rate normalised at altitude
- deep breathing under rest and exertion
- continued periodic breathing in the sleep (increased during acclimatisation, but it doesn't stop at extrem altitudes - I personally have never experienced it below 4500 m)
- performance in accordance to training (minus the alt factor)
- more frequent peeing (high alt. diuresis)
I was hoping to find some detailed info in English in Mark Twight's book "Extreme Alpinism" and Clyde Soles "Climbing: Expedition Planning" but they both lack details in acclimatisation. M. Twight states "Rather than recipes for acclimatizing, I offer theory and practical examples." Well, he spends many words without going into any theory at all. Mostly personal accounts and stories from others.
Still, Helpful stuff on 3 pages, yet F. Berghold covers more info on this topic in about half a page.
On here https://www.princeton.edu/~oa/safety/altitude.html
I found some English titles:
Mountain Sickness, Peter Hackett, The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1980.
High Altitude Illness, Frank Hubble, Wilderness Medicine Newsletter, March/April 1995.
The Use of Diamox in the Prevention of Acute Mountain Sickness, Frank Hubble, Wilderness Medicine Newsletter, March/April 1995.
The Outward Bound Wilderness First Aid Handbook, J. Isaac and P. Goth, Lyons & Burford, New York, 1991.
Medicine for Mountaineering, Fourth Edition, James Wilkerson, Editor, The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1992.
Gamow Bags - can be rented from Chinook Medical Gear, 34500 Hwy 6, Edwards, Colorado 81632, 970-926-9277. www.chinookmed.com
Altitude Illness Prevention & Treatment, Steven Bezruchka, The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1994.
Going Higher, Charles Houston, Little Brown, 1987.
High Altitude Sickness and Wellness, Charles Houston, ICS Books, 1995.
High Altitude Medicine and Physiology, Ward Milledge, West, Chapman and Hall, New York, 1995."