Forests and Fiords

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fatbikephil
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Forests and Fiords

Post by fatbikephil »

Saturday lunchtime saw me leaving the house on a loaded Straggler, my sights set on the convoluted mix of sea lochs, freshwater lochs, hills and forests of Argyll. As usual for a week off I'd idly contemplated all of Scotland as a venue for some pedaling and bivvying, finally settling on A&B as I've not done much cycling around there (in the last 30 years that is) and it offers a unique landscape, some great wee roads and plenty of scope for some dirt / stones.

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Looking towards the Trossachs. For a change the forecasted nice day was....a nice day! This is actually on the GB divide route but I had the place to myself despite the sunshine.

Beyond here its more backroad to Callander then the tracks of Queen Elizabeth Forest park over to and past Aberfoyle. Co-op provided a late afternoon feed as I contemplated bivvy spots. It was way to early to hide out in the woods and I was aware of a large amount of farmland to cross on the way to Loch Lomond but I figured I could get to the Arrochar Alps before dark o'clock and a fine site I'd scoped on my jaunt round the Loch Lomond and Trossachs Loop in May. Much leisurely cruising followed via NCN7 to Balloch. This was bypassed as it was a bit too lively for my sensitive tastes and I had plenty food on board. Then up the wee road to Faslane and the three lochs way

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Lower Loch Long and the Clyde. The detritus of Faslane just out of shot.

I got to the spot (as used by Sean Belson on his LLTL ride a year ago) gratified it was not already occupied, dry and still (just) light. Bizarrely there were no midges. The midge forecast had predicted this but I'd assumed their Cray supercomputer midgy modeller had thrown a diode as mild, damp weather in the west = midges.... but there weren't!

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A pleasant evening of eating, reading and drinking followed. Sadly no trains went by but I figured one would wake me up the next morning. In the event I woke up at 8.30 to the inevitable sound of rain.... I got packed up and going by which time the rain had receded to a typical West Highland drizzle. The midges had woken up to the fact that there was a late season victim on hand so it was on with the head net. Question - is it better to wear your specs inside or outside a head net?

Great. The front tyre was flat. After some pump faffing I pulled the tube to discover a large thorn right on the crown of the tyre which had neatly penetrated the tube. I'd spent Friday evening removing the tubeless set up G-0nes and replacing them with Conti speed rides with tubes as the tubeless tyres weren't holding pressure beyond 12 hours. The irony was dripping off me. And to cap it all my puncture repair kit was conspicuous by its absence. I did have my tubeless repair kit however so you can imagine my reaction to this. Out came the thorn and in went my (single) spare tube. If I got another puncture I'd be screwed. This in mind, plans were quickly revised to get to the road and try to source a repair kit. Except the nearest habitation was Arrochar which is a very small village with zero chance of any kind of bike repair type outfit. I got there at 10 to discover the garage was an automated affair and the shop puncture kit free. However the very helpful proprietor directed me to a bike workshop which actually has its own brown sign! I found it eventually and no-one was home but after phoning the number the guy who ran it told me he will speak to his neighbour to open up the shop and sort me out. So one tip-top repair kit and another tube later I was off. I repaired the other tube whilst drinking coffee from a wee shack and re-engaged plan A. Arrochar is actually a top bikepacking destination. It has a well stocked shop open until 10, a chippy, a coffee shack and a bike repair shop.

Much gravelling followed up Glen Croe - a fine single speed killer as its just at that grade that makes walking seem painfully slow but needs a fair old effort to pedal. Two dudes on Teneres coming down the other way nearly ran me down to boot!

Now what? Hells Glen then Loch Eck trails or..... I know I'll do that path I've been meaning to do for yonks. Down to Lochgoilhead and on the wee road along the west side of Loch Goil to Castle Carrick.

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Much wetter looking north but I was getting fried in the Sun!

Beyond the castle there is a track for a bit and then a path of dubious provenance. What the hell, it was only a couple of K and I was on the path killer, aka a bike that was light enough to carry! In the event it was a peach with only a few wet bits and a bit of a pull up to a blessedly low key forest track (one with grass growing up the middle - a rarity these days). This popped me out at Ardentinny. I was trying to head west but given the terrain around here this is only possible by boat. Sea lochs - actually fiords in all but name - perforate the coastline in this part of the country and westward progress means lots of northing and southing. The mess of the naval base spoils things a bit but you pass through many acreage of atlantic oak woodland which is fab. I could hardly move for red squirrels, buzzards, various sea birds and other flying beasties (slugs as well - they are a food source after all).

Dilemma. I had run out of food and a quick forward projection of my route suggested there was bugger all other than pubs which may or may not be fully booked, closed, crap or off limits to someone as smelly as I now doubtless was. Ardentinny, Strone and Kilmun produced nothing in the way of shops and one wee cafe which I couldn't be arsed with. I was reluctant to head into nearby Dunoon but figured this would be better than starving to death. Then lo! a roadside diner did appear, complete with Jet garage and Londis. At first I thought I might have been hallucinating through hunger but nope, it was indeed right there. I wonder if the diner is a throwback to when the yanks occupied Holy loch with their nuclear subs (they left the place in the late '90's and left an economic hole they made no effort to compensate which the local area struggled to recover from) but these days its a more traditional Scottish purveyor of fried food. Very good and very cheap! The garage provided onward food then it was up, up and away towards the Kyles of Bute.

To this point I'd had a few sprinkles of rain but inevitably on the days first big climb, the rain came in, in earnest - more fine dreich but further damp bivvyage was not something I was too fussed about. However it dried up soon after and I had a sunny run down to Tighnabruaich (via a road climb I had to push!) which had no open shops and nothing much inspiring in the way of pubs. I blazed on through, the ferry terminal of Portavadie my destination.

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Kyles of Bute view point, the bute ferry in mid channel. For the avoidance of doubt, this is the sea!

I got to Portavadie at 6 and then dithered. The next ferry was at half past but I had no idea what bivvy sites would be in scope on the other side. I had a mosy down to Pollphaill village - famously deserted after having been built for an oil boom that never happened. In fact it never even got occupied. As it happens its now been bought and demolished. Annoyingly it looked like there was a fine beach just below it but there was no way to get access without breaking through the totally unnecessary heras fencing. Next door is the horribly contrived Portavadie mariner and hotel which was avoided like the plague. Instead I headed north, my bivvy radar set to full strength.

Jackpot. A local map indicated a path network through the woods and to Glenan bay - bound to be a good spot here. There then followed a bit of extreme hike a bike over a rocky shore path to said bay. I looked back and noted a spit of land to a rocky outcrop. There was a posh looking (but totally isolated) bothy / house in the bay and a couple necking on the beach just down from it but this grassy strand to the rocky knoll looked perfect.

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It was. I lazed around watching the varied sea bird life and the glorious panorama before me. I've been wanting to do a coastal bivvy since I started all this nonsense so finally I was here, on the shore and in the sun. More food and fine whisky accompanied this before turning in when darkness descended. I left the front door open in a bid to dry things out and to see the stars. A bright light was shining in behind me which I first took to be the spotlights littering the marina, only to get up to go to the loo and realise it was actually a full moon shining right through the tarp! Could this be a totally dry bivvy? At long last??

No. I woke to low cloud and rain. The inside of the tarp was soaked with dew despite the breeze and the outside now wet again. I was woken by the first ferry which was a cunning plan as it would be an hour to the next one - time enough to have breakfast, pack up, fight my way back to the terminal and use its facilities. That said as the ferry trundled across the loch, the cloud lifted and there was even a hint of sunshine.

After coffee, bacon rolls and cake in Tarbert I was off into new territory. On NCN 78 actually, around the Knapdale peninsular - watch out for beavers! After more mist the sky cleared and the sun blazed down once more. Great, I could get the tarp up at some point to dry it out whilst eating lunch. This is a great road with little traffic and fine views of the sound of Jura, Islay, and Jura itself. More ruminating on my route then lead me to another lump of land and another new trail. This linked two sections of unclassified road and should be OK as the map indicated spot heights - a sure sign it had once been public.

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Incoming! It had been sunny to this point but once again the fickle Scottish weather nearly took me by surprise - so much for drying the tarp... Into the wet weather gear and.... cop out? nah just keep on going. The 'track' was still surfaced, albeit a bit rough and the clouds lifted once more to reveal the paps of Jura. This was all good stuff and the road, once re-joined; offered an ever changing view of this fascinating landscape of sea, shore, woods and hills. Crinan offered no facilities so I sat by the canal eating food from my bags and realising that again I faced a food dilemma. I ruminated about routes and figured that getting to within a shout of home that day (a 100 mile shout) was a good move as the forecast for wednesday was pish. So instead of heading further north I would make a bee line for the general locus of Tyndrum / Bridge of Orchy. This would involve 40 odd miles of back road and a few miles of (hopefully quiet) A road so still well within my pre trip aims. First up was a comically decrepit U road to Ford at the southern end of Loch Awe, complete with grass growing up the centre, monster potholes, gates and cows. Then the east Loch Awe road, last pedaled by me in the '90's. Its a gem but the weather clagged in once more. Fortunately I now had a monster tailwind (which would persist to home) and its mainly in the trees so I was quite happy spinning away, getting passed by only a couple of cars the whole way up.

But I had no food apart from 4 snickers and a packet of crisps. So much for self indulgent cycle touring. And my tarp was wet. And I was wet. And I'm due a night of luxury. But where? Not up by Loch Awe thats for sure. There is a hotel but it looked horribly posh (and expensive) so not a chance. Next up was a hidden bar which didn't open until 6. It was only 5.30 and I wasn't for stopping. A couple of B and B's were passed but I hate such places. Soon enough I hit the main road and trundled down to Dalmally noting the traffic and feeling glad this was the only such road I'd ridden in 250 miles. Dalmally offered a train station and a train south in an hour. A bit of nosing then came across the Dalmally Hotel looking suspiciously quiet. But the chap out front cleaning the windows was most welcoming. A room? Of course, come this way. Oh yes - room, food and beer. I'm in.

It cost a bomb (£85 B& large B) but stuff it I was on holiday and I've not done a cheeky hotel night since 2017. By this time the weather had actually cleared up and I could hear a thousand bike packers taunting me for copping out. I'd get banned from this forum and consigned to the Cycling UK forum for the rest of my naturals. But I wanted a pint so stuff everything. Anyway it was fab, the staff were very friendly, the food voluminous (and good) and the bed comfy. Breakfast nearly burst me as they had a portion of pancakes and jam spare so I had that as well as the full fry up. At 9.30 I staggered out into a damp morning, still deliberating about my route.

The forecast was good however and 1 mile of A85 convinced me that trunk road schlepping to Tyndrum, Crianlarich and Killin would be a drag so it was time to do the route I'd scoped years ago as a through way to the west avoiding A82/85 misery. Up a damp Glen Orchy (many bivvy spots taunted me) to Bridge of the same name. Onto the WHW and down to Auch farm (which now has a dark reputation) and up the Alt Kinglass over to Loch Lyon on the Highland Trail once more. Actually gravel-tastic even on one gear and I cleaned all the rivers bar one. Then the sun came out! So my route progressed to the dam, over the pubil climb, past no fewer than 4 groups of bikepackers doing one of many routes that uses this road, to my favourite Co-op in Killin.

That's about it. NCN 7 to Callander followed then a variation of my outward route back home for 6 and 100 miles on the dot.

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Looking back to the hills....

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The machine. Single speed touring rules!

PS - No beavers in Knapdale but the barstards have flooded NCN just passed Lochearnhead!
Last edited by fatbikephil on Fri Sep 24, 2021 11:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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RIP
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Re: Forests and Fiords

Post by RIP »

Lots to absorb there Phil. Another corking adventure and write-up as usual :-bd . Specs inside :wink: .
"My God, Ponsonby, I'm two-thirds of the way to the grave and what have I done?" - RIP

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boxelder
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Re: Forests and Fiords

Post by boxelder »

Auch farm (which now has a dark reputation)
Why's that?

EDIT - found it. Tony Parsons RIP

I don't wear specs, but would imagine having them outside a head net would press the mesh up against your face rather uncomfortably?

Any plans I had of heading north now stalled by daughter #1 catching the 'rona :sad:
Rapideye
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Re: Forests and Fiords

Post by Rapideye »

Brilliant write up and lovely photos. Amazing views.
Alan63
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Re: Forests and Fiords

Post by Alan63 »

Hi Phil

Thanks for posting. Enjoyed reading your report. Fraser and I are riding the faultline trail in sections. Going north, we are only as far as Balloch. It is good to read your thoughts on the next sections as far as Dunoon. It gives us useful info going forward. Thanks
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fatbikephil
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Re: Forests and Fiords

Post by fatbikephil »

Cheers all, nice that my rambling tales are appreciated!
Alan63 wrote: Fri Sep 24, 2021 11:08 am Hi Phil

Thanks for posting. Enjoyed reading your report. Fraser and I are riding the faultline trail in sections. Going north, we are only as far as Balloch. It is good to read your thoughts on the next sections as far as Dunoon. It gives us useful info going forward. Thanks
Not come across the faultline trail before - I note it misses the extra loop at Knapdale round to Loch Sween which is worth doing. That said my old mapping on the GPS didn't show the off road option parallel to the A83 up to Ardrishaig - if it had I might have used it given what the weather did at this point!

Keep us posted on progress.
Alan63
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Re: Forests and Fiords

Post by Alan63 »

fatbikephil wrote: Fri Sep 24, 2021 11:39 am Cheers all, nice that my rambling tales are appreciated!
Alan63 wrote: Fri Sep 24, 2021 11:08 am Hi Phil

Thanks for posting. Enjoyed reading your report. Fraser and I are riding the faultline trail in sections. Going north, we are only as far as Balloch. It is good to read your thoughts on the next sections as far as Dunoon. It gives us useful info going forward. Thanks
Not come across the faultline trail before - I note it misses the extra loop at Knapdale round to Loch Sween which is worth doing. That said my old mapping on the GPS didn't show the off road option parallel to the A83 up to Ardrishaig - if it had I might have used it given what the weather did at this point!

Keep us posted on progress.
I liked the look of the trail as it goes through Dumfries and Galloway, an area I like. Not many "trails" go there. Apart from literally going past the front door, the route south of Glasgow can be done in chunks using the train.
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Re: Forests and Fiords

Post by slarge »

Nice write up Phil, looks like a great route. Can't believe you copped out and had a proper hotel. You've got time to edit that bit before Stu bans you :-bd
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fatbikephil
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Re: Forests and Fiords

Post by fatbikephil »

slarge wrote: Mon Sep 27, 2021 5:30 pm Nice write up Phil, looks like a great route. Can't believe you copped out and had a proper hotel. You've got time to edit that bit before Stu bans you :-bd
Ahh the depredations of old age!
Anyway I had a clean bivvy sweep at the Highland Trail this year so I was due a cheeky hotel night :grin:
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