Tour de Galloway

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Delv4
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Location: Northern Ireland

Tour de Galloway

Post by Delv4 »

Day 1: Cairnryan to Loch Grannoch

Only about an eight mile or thereabouts ride from home to Belfast Port on a quite chilly and dry day, with just the threat of rain but I managed to get to the Port of Belfast, checked in and on to the Ferry before the very heavy rain blew in on the North Westerly.

A few miles up Belfast Lough on the Ferry and it was much warmer and Sunnier, I settled in to my chair with a hot brew and a Mars bar for a very pleasant crossing over to Cairnryan and the start proper of my short tour.

About two and a half hours later we were called to disembark after a very calm and pleasant sailing across the Irish Sea.

Down the A77 towards Stranraer for almost five miles then left and shortly after a right turn to follow the Messan Burn on a lovely quiet lane which turned in to a Woodland gravel route around the Black Loch at Castle Kennedy. It was warm sunny and dry but it was also obvious that the region had seen significant rainfall in recent days, anytime I rode across a more grassy boggy section my momentum immediately stopped as if I had slammed on the brakes. But soon I was back out on to a tarmac road and traction and forward momentum was no longer a problem.

I was now on a familiar road, the road to New Luce, having previously ridden this with my then Cycling Club on an away day, day trip to the Mull of Galloway Lighthouse. A lovely quiet, rolling road running beside parts of the Southern Uppland way and lined with stone walls. Progress was slow despite a gentle tailwind, I’m a rubbish climber as is but the heavy load of luggage attached to my Kinesis Tripster ensured I was climbing even slower than normal and the 36 tooth cog on my cassette was seeing significant action.

Through New Luce and I took a left on to another small, winding, undulating road passing Glenchamber wind farm, the purple heather and the wind turbines forced me to stop for a few Photographs and a song came in to my head.

O the Summer time has come
And the Trees are sweetly bloomin'
And the wild mountain Thyme
Grows around the bloomin' heather


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There was approximately one vehicle every ten minutes on this road, cycling bliss!

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Onwards through Balminnoch and passing Balloch of Dee caravan site progress was slow, both from my heavy load but also from the stop start nature of the ride as I like to stop and capture Photographs and or video clips as I go. Another quick stop at Challoch to Photograph a place of worship

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and onwards in to Newton Stewart and a food stop in a Pizzareia. I was unable to buy water here but there were copious amounts of Irn Bru for sale.

Leaving Newton Stewart via the narrow, “grass up the middle” road known as old military road I was still following my Wahoo route which I had planned a wild camp at Loch Grannoch. Old military road was a delight.

I then jumped on to part of NCN7 through what looked like a former single track railway converted to a greenway to avoid the busy A75. I am glad I cycled it to see what it offered but to be honest I wouldn’t use it again, a bit too narrow and way to stop starty to keep opening and closing gates but it was worth a view and offered up some great views across the valley below. The signs warned of a 30% gradient, luckily for me this was a downhill so down in to the drops and have at it!

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I was now back out on to the road again and before long was in Creetown. It was now quite late in the evening so no time for a look around, so straight up another steep ramp and shortly after a left turn in to a great little road. This road should have led me on to a gravel path and onwards to Loch Grannoch. But when I got to the end of the tarmac road I was in a farmyard and large chained up gates prevented access to the gravel path, very frustrating considering I could see the path I was supposed to be on. But with no forward access and no local knowledge of how to bypass my barrier I was forced to do a u turn and head back the way I had come.

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The light was fading fast so I stopped at a small burn to filter some water then started checking out a couple of spots to possibly pitch my tent. The first one was elevated from the road and had a stone wall for shelter but the ground beneath was rocky and uneven. The second potential site was in a field, the very long grass was saturated, I was concerned that the damp would seep up through the lightweight floor of my tent and wet my mat & sleeping bag. So onwards I went before pitching up in a clearing in some Woodland beside a river.

About an hour after pitching up the Tent on came very heavy rain, it would not stop for the next two days. It woke me from my broken nights sleep at 4am and the thought came in to my head about what happens if the river floods as I’m pitched very close to the edge of the river. Luckily it was not an issue.

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Delv4
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Re: Tour de Galloway

Post by Delv4 »

Day 2 : Creetown to Newton Stewart


Packing up camp in the rain, my thoughts turned to what would I do now given that my pre-planned route was now well and truly out of the window after having to backtrack last night.

I decided to backtrack to Newton Stewart, find a Cafe for a hot brew and cooked brekkie and then make a route plan in the dry warmth of the Cafe. Rather than go back along the NCN7 bike path again this time I opted for the main A75 road. It was raining cats and dogs but traffic was pretty light for that hour of the morning. The spray coming off the large articulated Lorries was significant but they and all drivers gave a wide berth when over-taking, a recurring theme on this trip, Scottish drivers being more careful and respectful than those back home!

I made it in to Newton Stewart, did a lap of the town sussing out open establishments, there were not many. In to a Cafe I went, ordered my brekkie and took stock of the situation, the heavy downpour continued unrelenting.

I spent well over an hour in the Cafe reluctant to return to the saddle in such constant rain, the longer I procrastinated the less enthusiasm I had for it and in the end I took the soft option of calling it quits for the day booking a room for the night and enjoying a nice lazy day of rest and eating.

A paltry 13 miles clocked up for the day.
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Delv4
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Re: Tour de Galloway

Post by Delv4 »

Day 3 : Newton Stewart to Carsphairn

Well slept, showered, well fed, it was time to throw a leg over the bike and head out on the road in to the rain, I was determined to not lose another day to the weather, come what may I was going to clock up a decent few miles today. But where to go?

I left Newton Stewart on Millcroft Road crossing Penkiln Burn and then stopped to chat to a local man who was returning to his parked car after fishing the river Cree for Salmon. We put the world to rights for about 10 minutes before I bade him farewell and resumed my Cycling along another delightful narrow, rolling road with a few steeper pitches.

Before long I heard the sound of a lot of rushing water, to the left of me was the flowing River Cree, I looked to my right through the foliage and spied a waterfall, time to stop again and get the camera out.

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Pics & video captured I was back on the bike enjoying the quiet road still riding along with no real idea of any route plan and soon I was seeing signs for Glen Trool village, I scrolled through the routes stored in my Wahoo and selected my previously pre-planned day two route (for day 3) all was not lost I was now going to get to ride and see some of the area I had planned to see before setting out from home on this little tour.

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The next 15 miles or so were the highlight of the whole trip. I left the Glen Trool visitor centre on yet another narrow tarmac road, there were plenty of hikers and dog walkers getting on with it, all dressed up to counter the elements. Despite all the rain it was far from cold.

Roughly 3 miles after leaving the Glen Trool visitor centre the tarmac road finished and a fantastic gravel forest fire road began and amongst it was a category 3 climb averaging 7% and maxing out at 13.1% not ideal when heavily loaded but I managed to cycle the vast majority of it, all be it slowly.

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Stopping to navigate a gate I could see two MTB’ers approaching from further down, we had a bit of a chat about each others plans, I spotted their huge 50 tooth cassettes and small chainrings and was green with envy. Even more so when they told me their electric motor pedal assistance really helps on the hills. We said our goodbyes and off they went in to the clouds ahead of me.

At the summit I couldn’t resist getting off the bike again for another photo opportunity.

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The gravel fireroad was now a more rolling affair, a very enjoyable ride, the rain and limited visibility across the landscape only adding to the atmosphere. I was alone in the landscape and as happy as the proverbial pig.

I reached Loch Dee and stopped for another Photograph.

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I came upon a log pile and stopped for another Photograph.

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I left the gravel road behind picking up NCN7 again and stopped for another Photograph at a small bridge over a stream. I met two cycle tourists coming the opposite direction.

Onwards, pedal stroke after pedal stroke and I emerged out at Clatteringshaws Loch at the opposite end from the dam wall and continued on around the Loch until I reached the dam wall and another stop for a Photograph and a chat with an angler fishing for Pike.

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The raiders gravel road was next on my pre-planned route but I had been enjoying the ride that much I had been neglecting my fuelling so instead I headed for the Clatteringshaws visitor centre cafe for a hot brew, a tray bake and a bottle of water. This was a mistake as I cooled down too much and was shivering when I left the Cafe. I was chilly, low on energy (despite having plenty of snacks with me) and definitely dehydrated (I never drink enough on the bike). I made a new plan, head out on the road to New Galloway and in the general direction of Dalmellington.

Nothing much about New Galloway but I had to do a u turn and go back through it again as my navigationally challenged brain was failing me again but I soon was heading in the correct direction again. Energy levels were now very low, but I had to keep moving forward. Mile after scenic mile and the small village of Carsphairn was on the horizon, I prayed it had a B&B with vacancies and a good cafe.

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I got lucky I found a B&B with no guests, got myself warmed up in a hot shower and some warm dry clothes on. I could not be bothered venturing out to find food so boiled the kettle and rehydrated a chicken korma curry, surprisingly tasty and filling and now all was good with the world again.
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Delv4
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Location: Northern Ireland

Re: Tour de Galloway

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A sound 8+ hours sleep reenergised me but with the huge calorific deficit from the previous days riding it was inevitably always going to be another tough day in the saddle, made even tougher by the very strong wind blowing from the direction I would be travelling in for the vast majority of todays ride. Nothing else for it but to buckle down and get on with it, at least the rain had finally stopped.

A long uphill drag out of Carsphairn for the first six miles was a slow enough start especially as the light was beaut and I kept stopping to grab a Photograph here and there and of course the wind. But the scenery and the road was excellent, the vast majority of todays ride I would love to ride again on an unladen down Bicycle.

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Six miles of drag complete there was now four miles of gradual downhill, unfortunately the wind meant no freewheeling but at least I could soft pedal and try to be a little more energy efficient. That brought me through Dalmellington and a left turn took me off the main road and on to a glorious single track tarmac road, twisting, undulating and mostly traffic free with Sheep roaming free, just a fantastic little road which would have been great fun to ride if not so heavily loaded down.

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Straiton village was next up, I knew there was a village shop here but of course I went the wrong direction as per usual, I turned around and found it shortly after and purchased a bottle of Fanta to get some sugar down to the leg muscles. The legs were tired and my power output was well down compared to normal.

Eight miles later and I was approaching Dailly a wooden board sign at the roadside advertising filled rolls, yesssss show me the food now! Alas I never found where the seller was so I made do with a mini snickers and “watering the plants” beside a gate just off the road.

Dailly came and went then Penkil all nice roads but I had no clue where I was, all I knew was I needed to get to somewhere close to New Luce for my final night. But somewhere along the road whilst studying google maps on my phone to find New Luce it occurred to me that Cairnryan was a similar distance away and if I arrived there in the early evening I might be able to transfer on to the last Ferry home tonight instead of getting the Ferry home in the morning. Once that thought was in my head I could not shake it and that became the new plan.

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My legs and energy levels were running on empty, no matter how many snacks I ate the energy just was no longer there. I kept telling myself forward is forward no matter how slowly the progress.

Another photo stop leaving Colmonell and onwards I went, some long climbs in my easiest gear and eventually I emerged out on to the main A77 towards Cairnryan. Normally a road to avoid due to all the Ferry traffic but at this time it was relatively quiet, aided by two sets of temporary traffic lights which bunched the traffic up so they passed me all at once and then blissfully quiet tarmac for another while.

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A four mile downhill section was very welcome relief for a tired body and mind, I was even able to shift in to the big ring upfront and maintain some speed for the first time in ages. Not too much later I arrived at Cairnryan Port, the last sailing home was sold out, gutted! But a huge win, I was early enough to catch an earlier sailing which had plenty of room and so I would get a nights sleep in my own bed and also be home at around 11 o’clock rather than much later in the night.

Once onboard I headed straight for the cafe, a hot mug of tea and a fish and chips dinner temporarily hit the spot but despite a decent portion I was hungry again when disembarking from the boat. I had only eight miles to go but was a broken man, barely able to turn the pedals. The eight miles took me 45 slow agonising minutes, I was physically and mentally drained and it took me an age to fall asleep. I even got up out of bed at one point and raided the kitchen cupboards to find something to snack on.
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Delv4
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Re: Tour de Galloway

Post by Delv4 »

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RIP
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Re: Tour de Galloway

Post by RIP »

Nice write-up. One for the bucket list.
"My God, Ponsonby, I'm two-thirds of the way to the grave and what have I done?" - RIP

The sign outside the asylum is the wrong way round.....

"At least you got some stories" - James Acaster
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Delv4
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Location: Northern Ireland

Re: Tour de Galloway

Post by Delv4 »

RIP wrote: Mon Sep 14, 2020 1:07 pm Nice write-up. One for the bucket list.
I will definitely have to return... just need to find some lighter kit
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Borderer
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Re: Tour de Galloway

Post by Borderer »

Nice write up, thanks. Not far from me but it feels like another world.
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Delv4
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Re: Tour de Galloway

Post by Delv4 »

Borderer wrote: Sun Sep 20, 2020 7:02 pm Nice write up, thanks. Not far from me but it feels like another world.
I now have no mojo for cycling my local routes, I need more long miles of deserted forestry gravel fire roads in my life
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RIP
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Re: Tour de Galloway

Post by RIP »

Delv4 wrote: Mon Sep 21, 2020 3:00 pm I need more long miles of deserted forestry gravel fire roads in my life
I believe Stu offers counselling for gr@vel-based afflictions of that nature :smile:
"My God, Ponsonby, I'm two-thirds of the way to the grave and what have I done?" - RIP

The sign outside the asylum is the wrong way round.....

"At least you got some stories" - James Acaster
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matt_brk
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Re: Tour de Galloway

Post by matt_brk »

Delv4 wrote: Mon Sep 21, 2020 3:00 pm I now have no mojo for cycling my local routes, I need more long miles of deserted forestry gravel fire roads in my life
I followed my Galloway weekender up the next weekend with an overnighter along our only long distance trail, Norfolk being pretty flat it didn't really have the same vibe. Time to move to Scotland maybe......
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Delv4
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Re: Tour de Galloway

Post by Delv4 »

matt_brk wrote: Tue Sep 22, 2020 7:56 pm Time to move to Scotland maybe......
I lived/studied there for four years, should have made the move permanent way back then
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matt_brk
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Re: Tour de Galloway

Post by matt_brk »

Write up from my version of the Tour de Galloway two days after Delv's can be found below:

http://www.majaba.co.uk/bikepacking-in- ... ay-gravel/
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