So iv finally put the arkose together after two mths of it just sat in stand. I have some new nanos for it but the rear is to big with the current set up using my old 9 spd gears


Advice required as to what u are running. I think If I run it 1 X 10 I can eliminate the front mech which is causing the prob with space. I'd like to run 2 X 10 but I'd have the same prob with a mech.
What ratio 1 X 10 would work best for gravel/ commuting and general thrashing around?? Who's using what ta, I'm going to have to buy new gearing and cranks

Gearing is so personal that it's worthless asking other folks opinions - especially if you give them no context.

As regards your front mech clearance issue, have a look at the Shimano side-swing models as they are designed to improve this somewhat.

Have a play around with http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_inches

Put in what you have on other bikes and go with something similar that seems suitable.

Whats the biggest cassette you can fit on the rear?
For 1x just pick the appropriate chainring

2 x should help as the smallest ring will be nearer to the middle position rather than the granny - I assume it's all happy in the middle ring of the present set-up?

Knowing where / how you ride, I would say that if you were going down the 1 x route, then 34 x 40 or 42 would be okay. Some people will say that's too low but you'll probably use it more as a lightweight mountain bike than a heavy road bike.

I've currently got 44 up front and a 10-42 cassette. I'll be going smaller at the front for sure! It's great on the road but a bit much climbing off road...

I use a 34-40/12 here , even loaded it's fine. I am happy to give up a little top speed, it's on or the other with 1x.

Hmm. I want a gear that I can push on the roads when it's a Rd bike but then something that won't give me a hernia when I'm climbing in Wales....The 9 spd triple is ace but damn the tyre size. Maybe just get a smaller size tyre for rear say a 35? Any suggestions the small block 8 is coming up loads.

Seem to remember that spa cycles stock a mini compact double. Various doubles 24/40 to 30/46

Is it the mech or the chain line that's the issue?

It's the mech Ian. If u imagine looking down from the seat to the bb at the rear of seat tube where the hanger sits the swing arm is on the back and the gap between the tyre and the arm is.... Well nothing it's hitting the tyre......scratches head lots

Take a look

No room for a sheet of paper in there!!

Are those chainsets from spa cycles any good for the money? I need to ask them if they are 10spd compatible also

I've not used one. Just clocked they would be useful for something.

What dropouts does it have? I made some 10mm spacers which sit at the front of the slotted drop outs on my T'inbred gains a surprising amount of tyre clearance.

Any chance you could use a side pull mech Mike??
I'm looking at a new build and from what I've read on them they give another 15mm clearance
Could be talking out of my arse mind you ....

It's an option but I'd have to cable tie the cable to my frame and it would look sub standard

There's always the 'grinder meets edge of tread' scenario to consider

Don't panic, it's not that as drastic as it sounds and will easily gain you a few more mm of clearance ... I assume it is the outermost edge of the tread that's nearest to the mech'?

Just my two pence worth - had similar problems when my ailing knees insisted swapping my slot drop inbred from 1X10 to 2X10 and the front mech clashed with the tyre.
I (like Ian I think) made spacers by sawing a thin section of old axle and cable tied them into the front of the axle slot then swapped the front mech to an XT top pull as the cage seems to be much lower profile than the others I had. That gave me plenty of clearance to run 2.4 x-kings.

Mike, that's an MTB mech, right? I think you're stuffed for clearance using that and a Nano 40 as the frame's designed for road mechs. A down-swing MTB FD has more clearance at the back than a top swing (gains about 5mm) but the down pull arm of a dual-pull mech is the part that's closest to the tyre.

James thanks for that. So if I change it to Rd mech it should be okay for space you reckon? Just saves me having to buy all new gearing and levers etc at the moment!

I'll just leave this here

Bearbonesnorm wrote:I'll just leave this here

What is it?

It's Walt's

Mike wrote:James thanks for that. So if I change it to Rd mech it should be okay for space you reckon? Just saves me having to buy all new gearing and levers etc at the moment!

Yes. A CX mech might be best - road FDs don't match MTB ring sizes or chainlines well so a CX70 is closer but still not optimised. It's all a bit of a bodge up front between road and MTB kit, at least the road or CX FD will match the cable pull of the shifter if you're on 9s. The beauty of 9s kit is that road and MTB rear mechs match on cable pull.

Just leave it alone. The tyre will generate the required clearance