Just a quick question, when it comes to brake repairs / pad swap outs, what's the deal?
Do you carry spare pads and split pins? If so, how many pairs?
Do you carry mini pliers, which I believe are required for pad changes? What's the smallest/lightest pliers or tools that are effective at the job?
Do you carry disc cleaner ? This seems way over the top, but figured I'd ask.

Cheers

I have two sets of pads, the springy holder thing and split pins wrapped up in paper and masking tape to keep them uncontaminated in my repairs bag. I always have a Leatherman Skeletool for a bunch of things: valves, chains, maintaining table manners while eating pork pies, etc,

I don't have any disc cleaner though.

Local rides consist of 1 tube (tubeless) 2 x C02's, multitool and 2 levers
I check my pads every few rides anyway and whip em out and clean up takes seconds to do, but as for multiday rides I'd carry a spare set of pads for sure or replace with a new set before the trip, no real mither to swap out a set of pads tbh.

As for changing pads as long as you can push the piston back (with something) to squeeze em in you'll be fine, multitool or levers or somet

A pad change in the beautiful Vosges mountains - I had put it off for an hour before realising the grating was spoiling my hard earned decent.

Dont worry I didn't use the meths to clean the disc but had to take it out the frame bag to get to the tools and spares. The tiny pliers were a recommendation off here £2 ebay jobbies but haven't failed me yet.

When I'm riding locally I don't carry any pads. If I'm off on a multi-day trip or a longer trip off the Island I carry 2 sets - they are different front and rear on my bike. For the HT550 I took 4 sets (2 front and 2 rear) as it has a reputation for going through pads if it's wet. I also carry a single pin and the springs that go between the pads, one for each size.

My brakes are Hope E4 and X2 so I need a small pair of pliers to get the clips off the end of the pins. I have a small Leatherman multitool, I think it's a squirt from memory, which I use for this. I have a tyre level in my spares so I use this for pushing the pads back.

I find that when fitting brand new pads to the Hope's the pistons have to be all the way in before the pads will provide enough clearance not to drag, plus new pads have to be bedded in. I fit the spare pads, bed them in and wear them slightly and then remove and put in the spares kit. This way they're are ready to go and there is more tolerance on pushing the pistons back in.

This process is a carry-over from my motorsport days. Any spares we carried would have been fitted and tested, and in the case of brake pads bedded in. At an event is not the time to discover that due to a manufacturing defect or a miss-labeled box that the spares are defective or don't fit.

I use Shimano XT brakes so the only tool I need is a hex key. A tyre lever is fine for resetting the pistons.

Normal riding, I wouldn't carry spares. I check pad wear regularly so would change before I went out. On a longer, multi-day, ride I'll carry a couple of spares.

FWIW I only use Shimano genuine pads. I've seen too many issues with some of the alternatives.

My callipers also use a HEX key (shimano Ultegra) <<not sure about the new mountain bike>>

Typically change both sets before a long ride.

Carry between 1 and 4 sets (take out of packaging and place in a small box) depends on distance and possible trail conditions; logic being, pads are fairly small and light, can be difficult to find, and a right Royal bugger if they wear out without replacement.

Also find a tyre level is find to reset the piston.

I carry and have used spare pads. Easy and quick to change (XT here too), but not necessarily shimano brand

Partly because I'm tight so want to get my money's worth

I've changed and then bedded them in while waiting for my food in the pub, doesn't take long

Cheers for the info so far.
Out of interest, what's the "bedding in" process you use?

The only time I’ve carried spare pads is when doing the Spanish C2C, I’ll check them before an event and change if necessary. My pads are difficult to get hold of ( Hope RX4 calipers) so I took two sets.
Personally I wouldn’t pre bed them, the disks often don’t wear perfectly so by the time you fit the pads they might need to re-bed anyway.

As for bedding in, first I’ll gently de-glaze the disks with some fine emery cloth, then most manufacturers recommend repeated hard braking from speed.

If anyone is suffering from very fast pad wear on SRAM dropbar brakes I’d highly recommend the Hope RX4 calipers as replacement. Not only do you get proper modulated braking the pads last extremely well, I’ve probably recovered the outlay in pads saved and warped disks.

Couple of things I've learned (the hard way ) - make sure you have a spare pin and spring as these things tend to disappear if your changing pads in the rain (although you don't need the spring in a pinch) and be careful when you push the pistons back in, especially if the bike is lying on its side or upside down. as its easy to end up with air getting in from the master cylinder.... (Also ensure you have something that will push the pistons back in!)

Cleaning wise if it was covered in gunge I'd skoosh it off with a water bottle but I wouldn't be too picky.

I sadly lost my Leatherman Skeletool CX, which is an ideal trail plier. I’ve since replaced it with a Squirt PS4 which is a bit flimsy at times but generally well made. It’s also genuinely tiny so goes on my keyring all the time.

Pad-wise, I bedded in four sets of pads years ago for the Puffer and subsequently lost them. Having found them, I take a set on long rides but never on local stuff.

I don’t carry a spare pin but a zip tie generally works as an emergency fix. Spring bit is included with the pads as they tend to disintegrate when pads wear right down.

ootini wrote: ↑Thu Apr 23, 2020 12:58 am What's the smallest/lightest pliers or tools that are effective at the job?
Cheers

https://www.sportfish.co.uk/simms-pliers.html#

Someone's taking the micturate surely. They're not even fabricated by virgin elfs from recycled unobtanium!

I've managed to use a chain tool to squish the pad retaining pin in order to change them before... Also lost one of the pins and bodged it with a paper clip. This was fine for the life of the pads as I forgot all about the bodge until they wore out.

mikejd wrote: ↑Thu Apr 23, 2020 2:26 pm https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gift-Multi-F ... SwpfpePyM0

Is the cutter on those actually capable of cutting a gear cable? I bought similar from Wilkos for abour a fiver, and they aren't...although they're decent pliers.

No, you can't exert enough force with the short handles, and it wouldn't be a clean cut anyway.

AlexGold wrote: ↑Thu Apr 23, 2020 4:56 pm

mikejd wrote: ↑Thu Apr 23, 2020 2:26 pm https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gift-Multi-F ... SwpfpePyM0

Is the cutter on those actually capable of cutting a gear cable? I bought similar from Wilkos for abour a fiver, and they aren't...although they're decent pliers.

My leather man squirt wouldn't either. The little pliers on is are useful for valve cores, valve lock-nuts that are sealanted on (if you need to put a tube in), pad poking and grabbing tiny clips, pulling thorns or glass out of tyres etc etc. Deffo not cutting cables though.

I do what Sean does, locally where I can self rescue buy bus / phone if totally stuck I rarely carry pads. Out on a trip overnight, 1 set, longer trip more. I have something to pry the pistons (with old pads in place) but never bother cleaning the disc, but then I don't do that at home either. I used to but didn't once and couldn't tell a difference.

mikejd wrote: ↑Thu Apr 23, 2020 7:19 pm No, you can't exert enough force with the short handles, and it wouldn't be a clean cut anyway.

It wouldn't need to be if the cable was fitted and you were just getting rid of excess. Glad to know that even the expensive ones can't achieve it either though! Maybe I'll pre cut the spare I carry and solder the end to get around the issue...

AlexGold wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 10:59 am

mikejd wrote: ↑Thu Apr 23, 2020 7:19 pm No, you can't exert enough force with the short handles, and it wouldn't be a clean cut anyway.

It wouldn't need to be if the cable was fitted and you were just getting rid of excess. Glad to know that even the expensive ones can't achieve it either though! Maybe I'll pre cut the spare I carry and solder the end to get around the issue...

You need proper cable cutters to avoid squashing the cable so even the larger Leathermans aren't going to, err, cut it.

Cables come pre-cut and soldered and fit through the outer so really you just need to measure up against an old one and cut and solder it so it doesn't fray and will still slide through the outer. You wouldn't need a cable crimp either.

I'd coil up any excess and maybe add some tape around it until I could access some decent cutters and a crimp.

htrider wrote: ↑Thu Apr 23, 2020 9:27 am . . and be careful when you push the pistons back in . . .

Being quite keen on having one tool do two, or more tasks, here's my take on depressing hydraulic brake pistons.
Remove wheel from bike, remove pads, insert one piece in from each side and squeeze together. The sliding wedges will slowly push the pistons home. Being soft wood you could also do this safely with pads in place.

And as long as you have the spring to
hand, re-assemble and use for intended purpose ;-)

NB No pegs were irreparably harmed during the making of this post.

mfezela wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 11:38 am

htrider wrote: ↑Thu Apr 23, 2020 9:27 am . . and be careful when you push the pistons back in . . .

Being quite keen on having one tool do two, or more tasks, here's my take on depressing hydraulic brake pistons.
Remove wheel from bike, remove pads, insert one piece in from each side and squeeze together. The sliding wedges will slowly push the pistons home. Being soft wood you could also do this safely with pads in place.

And as long as you have the spring to
hand, re-assemble and use for intended purpose ;-)

NB No pegs were irreparably harmed during the making of this post.

Hah thats a top tip! In fact that will work on motorbike brake pistons as well, yah dancer!

ootini wrote: ↑Thu Apr 23, 2020 12:58 am Do you carry mini pliers, which I believe are required for pad changes? What's the smallest/lightest pliers or tools that are effective at the job?

leatherman squirt or the planet x one thats similar cept a 10th of the price http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOJOSMT/jo ... ulti-tool

I used to be slack about carrying spare pads on short rides, especially if my pads were newish, but a couple of months ago the pads in my rear brake fell apart mid-descent They were brand new too - the resin just sheared clean off the metal. Luckily I was on a long ride and had spares. Now I just carry a spare set all the time.