Is there any benefit to a rear facing seat tube slot? I've just had to resort to hot water and elbow grease to remove a seatpost from a steel frame, having fitted it maybe only 4 weeks ago - with grease before anyone asks.

The irony (other than the frame itself) is that it's a British built frame. Why would someone do this intentionally?

Does anyone have any suggestions to prevent this in future, other than regular checking, liberal use of grease, and a mudguard? Any good bodges?

Are you using grease or anti-seize compound?

Road bike inner tube stretched over tube/clamp and post?

AlasdairMc wrote:The irony (other than the frame itself) is that it's a British built frame. Why would someone do this intentionally?

I've noticed this before as well. A few 'British' steel frames have rear facing slots. On the flip side my wife's Specialized Rockhopper (old 26" model) has not only a forward facing slot but takes full length outer cables for the gears so is UK friendly, and that is made by an evil US corporation

I use coppaslip or failing that white grease on mine with rearward slots. Normal grease doesn't seem to have the desired affect.

Bearbonesnorm wrote:Are you using grease or anti-seize compound?

I believe I used Teflon grease on it. Is copper slip a better option?

I've put mono lithium/ graphite on mine , it's that really dirty black sh@#e that you see on a fifth wheel of a truck ,it's bit messy but nothing ever sticks once it's on , I'm on shift tomorrow night I'll see if we've got any small packages of it ,don't think the post office would be happy if I posted it up in a jiffy bag

Some frames are worse than others for stuck seatposts. The ones that don't have an anti-corrosion coating on the inside are obviously troublesome..

You can buy a spray coating for internal use on the tubes (all sounds so wrong!)
It won't totally stop the galvanic corrosion, but it definitely helps..

Edit:
Found some similar magumba on CharlieTBM's site-http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/jp- ... gLIV_D_BwE

Instead of the frame saver I use a cavity wax for cars, the sort they spray inside door pillars etc. I believe this is basically the same as frame saver. I got mine form a local motor factors who supply paint etc. for bodyshops. I paid about £10 for a can and this would do several frames. It was the same as this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Wurt ... SwnbZYEhbZ

Just becareful that once you've got it nicely lubed you can then keep it where you want it! I had a siezed one in my steel frame. I eventually got it out, so then I greased up the tube and every ride it would drop no matter how hard I tightended it (eventually snapped the bolt ). To stop it slipping I then put a bit of toothpaste on the tube and now it's nearly stuck again

Echo all of the above. I went a few months without lubing my rear facing slot and now my tube's a right mess.

[quote="In Reverse" I went a few months without lubing my rear facing slot and now my tube's a right mess. [/quote]
Giggady, Giggady

Why would someone do this intentionally?

Rear facing slots may resist fatigue cracks better, although the only frame I've had that cracked at the seat tube slot was a rear-facer.

Waxoyl for me. Copper grease is good too. Plus a mudhugger

sean_iow wrote:Instead of the frame saver I use a cavity wax for cars, the sort they spray inside door pillars etc. I believe this is basically the same as frame saver. I got mine form a local motor factors who supply paint etc. for bodyshops. I paid about £10 for a can and this would do several frames. It was the same as this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Wurt ... SwnbZYEhbZ

That’s really useful, thanks - and not just for the bike as I’m just about to start rust treating my van!

Are rear faced slots not the way if used to be done. Many years ago I'm sure I remember an MTB mag commenting on a bike with a forward facing slot because it was a new way of doing things. Could be wrong of course.

Could you not just put a little bit of duck tape to cover the slot, to stop the crap going in it?

Copper Slip / copper anti-seize compound is readily available from motor stores and is often sold in a handy toothpaste-sized tube.
Use as a matter of course with alloy seatpost in steel or alloy frame.
It is not suitable for bearings but should also be used for: pedal axles to (metal) cranks, the two M5 bolts on non drive-side of Shimano cranks, waterbottle bolts, mudguard eye bolts, pannier rack bolts, threaded BB in metal frame, cleat bolts in both road and MTB shoes. Basically, if there is any chance that you bike will come into salt on the road then use it as it is far more resistant than grease. I have experienced a greased cassette rust to a steel freehub body after being used for a particularly salty winter - using a little copper slip instead and removing cassette at least once during winter will prevent this happening.
For BB use copperslip is particularly invaluable, especially on the road where salt is more prevalent: Tiagra hollowtech BB will last approx 4500km, which is about 1 winter. When I recently replaced mine from a steel frame, the copper slip was still there and the BB was removed easily with no chance of it being corroded in.
It really is your best friend! (Although I wouldn't use it in contact with carbon.)

What happened to side facing slots? I recall there were a number of manufacturers doing it a few years ago. From both a stress and contamination view point, ir appears to make lots of sense?

In Reverse wrote: I went a few months without lubing my rear facing slot and now my tube's a right mess.

BigdummySteve wrote:

In Reverse wrote: I went a few months without lubing my rear facing slot and now my tube's a right mess.

school-yard humour - not just me then.