The thinking ... spigots / joints are always the weakest point of a pole. By doing away with the shockcord through the centre, you can increase the strength of the spigot by increasing the wall thickness and even making it solid if you wish. For some people that's fine but others find they can't cope with the loose pole sections when setting their tarp up. Now you can have the best of both worlds.

https://www.facebook.com/bearbonesbikepacking/

... and no, it's not Sooty's wand.

And for us non Friendface users?

And for us non Friendface users?

Sorry Greg, I'll get something sorted for the sensible.

Here we go, 17 seconds of pure wonderment.

https://bearbonesbikepacking.blogspot.c ... poles.html

I like that a lot Stu.

How tall could you make a normal carbon pole (i.e. the 100-120cm diameter ones) before it became too flexy or snappable?

Would it get up to 180cm sort of height ok?

How tall could you make a normal carbon pole (i.e. the 100-120cm diameter ones) before it became too flexy or snappable?

Would it get up to 180cm sort of height ok?

Usually once you start to go beyond 150cm, I up the diameters to to 14mm / 12mm. However, I have made Mr Fitz some camper van awning poles which I think were something like 180cm in 12mm / 10mm.

The problem only arises when poles are canted on an angle. Used vertically under compression, there's no force applied to the joints but adding solid spigots provides a big safety margin.

Thanks Stu, 6 years without Friendface and I've zero intention of interacting with it again

Cool idea though.

Bearbonesnorm wrote:

How tall could you make a normal carbon pole (i.e. the 100-120cm diameter ones) before it became too flexy or snappable?

Would it get up to 180cm sort of height ok?

Usually once you start to go beyond 150cm, I up the diameters to to 14mm / 12mm. However, I have made Mr Fitz some camper van awning poles which I think were something like 180cm in 12mm / 10mm.

The problem only arises when poles are canted on an angle. Used vertically under compression, there's no force applied to the joints but adding solid spigots provides a big safety margin.

Carbon poles for his camper awning... blimey! ... posh git

It'll be an upright pole, but need to be sturdyish. It would be for a supermid, I usually use 2 walking poles to pitch it, tied together with paracord and velcro. Don't need the pole for a while, but it's part of my plan for a motorcycle camping trip - would be a nice spacious, quick pitching shelter

Well the video made me laugh.

Well the video made me laugh.

Oi, what's up with it ... I make poles not bloody films*




*obviously.

For some reason it made me think of this classic from the archives.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QNRpSkTGoA

benp1 wrote:

Bearbonesnorm wrote:

How tall could you make a normal carbon pole (i.e. the 100-120cm diameter ones) before it became too flexy or snappable?

Would it get up to 180cm sort of height ok?

Usually once you start to go beyond 150cm, I up the diameters to to 14mm / 12mm. However, I have made Mr Fitz some camper van awning poles which I think were something like 180cm in 12mm / 10mm.

The problem only arises when poles are canted on an angle. Used vertically under compression, there's no force applied to the joints but adding solid spigots provides a big safety margin.

Carbon poles for his camper awning... blimey! ... posh git

It'll be an upright pole, but need to be sturdyish. It would be for a supermid, I usually use 2 walking poles to pitch it, tied together with paracord and velcro. Don't need the pole for a while, but it's part of my plan for a motorcycle camping trip - would be a nice spacious, quick pitching shelter

They are a bit flash. But it means that our entire awning fits in a 5l alpkit bag. A R1g 7 tarp that alpkit sewed a kador strip onto, the poles some 3mm cord and two stakes.

Space is at a premium in our short wheelbase T4 so this sits under the front seat with plenty of space for other bits.