Carbon disc forks

simon72 · Post by **simon72** » Sat Mar 18, 2017 10:26 pm

I am looking for some carbon disc forks to upgrade my bivi/gravel bike. Ideally I want 1&1/8th, 300mm for 700c with 40mm tyre clearance that weigh about 500-750gms. Prices for forks of this description seem to range from £50 to £500!

I like the look of the planetx London road fork - the ugly olive colour is only £50 (the black is £100). My only reservation is they are tapered so I would need to spend £30 on an adaptor.
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FOPXLORO/p ... -road-fork

There are some forks on eBay for £50 that fit my requirements exactly but they are clearly from China - how do I know they aren't made of wood? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142315922543

I've been searching for about a week now and am going round in circles and loosing the plot. I can stretch to about £100. Does anyone have any suggestions (fork related please)?

Chew · Post by **Chew** » Sat Mar 18, 2017 10:28 pm

Cheap carbon forks will be overly ridged and have a harsh feeling.

May help us know what you're trying to achieve?

Chew · Post by **Chew** » Sat Mar 18, 2017 10:31 pm

Also whats the current axle to crown measurement and fork offset?

simon72 · Post by **simon72** » Sat Mar 18, 2017 10:42 pm

I'm using the bike for commuting, which involves 5miles of South Downs Way and 5miles of tarmac. I also want the bike for bivis. I'm trying to upgrade in time for the wrt.

Current forks don't have disc mounts. I've already bought a new SLX group set but can't fit it with these forks.

I'll have to look up what your questions mean

then I'll post the measurements tomorrow. Thanks for your interest.

ScotRoutes · Post by **ScotRoutes** » Sun Mar 19, 2017 1:17 am

Chew wrote:Cheap carbon forks will be overly ridged and have a harsh feeling.

May help us know what you're trying to achieve?

Really? My cheap carbon Exotics were really, really comfy. You could see them flex (though not as much a the old Pace RC31s

)

http://www.carboncycles.cc/?p=197

simon72 wrote:I am looking for some carbon disc forks to upgrade my bivi/gravel bike. Ideally I want 1&1/8th, 300mm for 700c with 40mm tyre clearance that weigh about 500-750gms. Prices for forks of this description seem to range from £50 to £500!

I like the look of the planetx London road fork - the ugly olive colour is only £50 (the black is £100). My only reservation is they are tapered so I would need to spend £30 on an adaptor.

You can't fit tapered forks into a 1&1/8th steerer tube.

What frame are you wanting to fit these to?

Bearbonesnorm · Post by **Bearbonesnorm** » Sun Mar 19, 2017 9:03 am

In this instance, I wouldn't bother with carbon. Something nice and made from steel with Surly written on will probably ride nicer and they should have something to fit your requirements exactly.

Bearbonesnorm · Post by **Bearbonesnorm** » Sun Mar 19, 2017 9:13 am

Ooh, measure the axle to crown height (distance from wheel spindle to bottom of lower headset cup) - I might have just the thing in the workshop

jameso · Post by **jameso** » Sun Mar 19, 2017 9:16 am

There are some forks on eBay for £50 that fit my requirements exactly but they are clearly from China - how do I know they aren't made of wood? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142315922543

You couldn't pay me enough to ride hard on carbon forks like that with no background. If you want carbon, be prepared to pay fair money for it and buy from a reputable brand. Ask who makes it if it's re-branded but not from a big company like Cannondale, Trek etc - I'd be inclined to avoid brands that won't tell you.
I've been accused of scaremongering in conversation by people I know who will use this stuff and say 'my forks have been fine though .. '. Good : ) They usually are, but of all the places to take a risk and save some £ / g .. Agree with the suggestion that a steel Surly fork is a better choice.

40mm tyre clearance

That ebay fork is 368mm axle to crown / 342mm to underside of crown ie 25C max tyre size. You'll need 395-400mm length to get a 40C tyre in and many carbon forks only have 5mm or so side clearance with a 40C. Getting 40C clearance on a straight steerer fork will be difficult - I don't know anyone that makes one, Asian carbon fork makers have moved over to taper steerers for the vast majority of models now.

whitestone · Post by **whitestone** » Sun Mar 19, 2017 9:23 am

Bearbonesnorm wrote:Ooh, measure the axle to crown height (distance from wheel spindle to bottom of lower headset cup) - I might have just the thing in the workshop

A tape measure

IGMC

BigdummySteve · Post by **BigdummySteve** » Sun Mar 19, 2017 10:46 am

Slight thread hijack but I might help the op, I too have been looking at carbon forks, the exotic and the MRP rock solid look likely candidates.
My ecr fork is 47mm offset and 468mm axel to crown,
Both the carbon forks are available in 44mm and 465 but the mrp also comes in 490mm. Obviously the 490 will increase the trail and offset but how will this affect the ride in the real world?
I'm assuming that the shorter fork being only 3mm less in length and offset would ride identical to stock give or take a psi or two in a tyre?

simon72 · Post by **simon72** » Sun Mar 19, 2017 3:09 pm

Just as I thought I was starting to get a grip on the technical aspects of selecting a fork this thread suddenly makes me feel clueless. Thanks for all your advice, I'm keen to just find any solution that is quick and not too expensive at this point.

Here are some pics that hopefully answer some of the questions. My local bike shop said it was 1&1/8th and that a tapered fork could be fitted if I buy an extra component?? I am not actually bothered what the forks are made of as long as they fit and don't weight too much. I will most likely fit either a 32c or 40c width tyre, like the Clement X'Plor.

Cheers!

Untitled by S, on Flickr

jameso · Post by **jameso** » Sun Mar 19, 2017 5:53 pm

My local bike shop said it was 1&1/8th and that a tapered fork could be fitted if I buy an extra component??

Should be able to, gets a bit less than straight forward though .. Looks like your bike has a 'semi-integrated' headset, if it does the head tube will have a 44mm ID. If you buy the right headset type, ie Hope EC44/40, type 'H' here -
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope ... -prod70727
.. then you can get a taper steerer fork in there.

If you went for a fork like this* -
https://www.evanscycles.com/pinnacle-ar ... k-EV250550
which is 397mm long I think, the headset cup depth of ~13mm will mean that overall it's very close to your current fork length of 410-420mm.

*disclaimer, I work for Evans. The fork's a sound one though. Any other taper steerer CX fork of ~395-400mm length would work in the same way.

Bearbonesnorm · Post by **Bearbonesnorm** » Sun Mar 19, 2017 6:08 pm

Sadly, after checking the fork I have is too short, sorry.

simon72 · Post by **simon72** » Sun Mar 19, 2017 10:18 pm

Hey Norm, thanks for checking. Never mind.

James, thanks for clarifying about the headset. The fork you recommended is out of stock until June unfortunately.

I can't belive what a faff this is turning into. I think next step is to take the current fork off and see exactly what it is. I had planned to just run the existing vbrake on the front until I found a solution for the fork, however, my new shifter is integrated with the hydraulic brake lever - so I am off the road till this is sorted.

Good job this isn't my only bike!

simon72 · Post by **simon72** » Sun Mar 26, 2017 6:19 pm

I got there in the end.. Indeed a tapered fork did fit with a new lower headset, as per James' advice. All in it cost me £200 to get a carbon fork fitted, twice my budget, but after today's maiden ride it was definitely money well spent. This is basically a new bike, only original items are frame, seat and post, pedals, top half of headset and rear tyre.

Thanks for all the help and advice! This bike is going to be perfect for the WRT. Doing a test bivi in 2 weeks on the SDW with all my new kit.

IMG_1085 2 by SW, on Flickr

IMG_1083 by SW, on Flickr

simon72 · Post by **simon72** » Sat Apr 22, 2017 7:01 pm

And after all that effort, time and money building this bike for the WRT - and with just one week to go - I discover this..

jameso · Post by **jameso** » Sat Apr 22, 2017 7:25 pm

:(

https://www.evanscycles.com/pinnacle-li ... e-EV187380

Any good? £70. Same headset size, similar geometry and clearances. Threaded BB. Seatpost should fit. Time may be the main issue tho.

simon72 · Post by **simon72** » Sat Apr 22, 2017 7:57 pm

Hi James, I appreciate your help with this build - your advice was spot on for the headset.

Since discovering this crack I have been focused on finding a welder. The welder has quoted me £60. So now that I know frames can be got new for similar money I am quite pleased. Thank you.

The only issue with this particular frame is the size options are limited. I am 6 foot tall. Can you recommend an alternative frame? Even if it is more money? £100 to £200 would be fine if the specs are the same as you have identified already. If it is in stock at Gatwick warehouse I could collect tomorrow and have plenty of time to rebuild.

Double thanks!! Feeling optimistic now.

burty · Post by **burty** » Sat Apr 22, 2017 7:58 pm

my surly krampus has a slight crack like that , noticed it yesterday , as I was getting it ready for the wrt.
it is now at longstaff cycles being repaired and sprayed a nice new colour ,
I just have to decide on the colour.
so now I will be on the ss instead

simon72 · Post by **simon72** » Sat Apr 22, 2017 8:14 pm

Whoa.. going on a SS is a strong move. It has three gears right: standing, sitting and pushing?

My plan B is a full sus, which will be comfortable but very heavy.

jameso · Post by **jameso** » Sun Apr 23, 2017 10:35 am

The welder has quoted me £60

Generally repairs like that on Al frames won't last long but it might get you through WRT. Maybe.. it's a very highly stressed part of a frame. Do you have the seatpost in the frame far enough? It's not that common for a well-designed frame (Scott are afaik) to fail there these days.

Sorry - I should have looked at frame sizes, didn't realise it was down to last size. No Lithium frames I can see in L size but I can call our warranty guys on Mon if you're near Gatwick.

simon72 · Post by **simon72** » Sun Apr 23, 2017 10:43 am

Think you have hit the nail on the head. The frame is a medium with a short post, adjusted very high to suit my height. I have probably been mistreating it.

Good to hear you think the weld will get me though the WRT. I'll do the weld to take the time pressure off finding a new frame - and get a frame that is the right size this time.

Would be great to know if there is a L sitting at Gatwick. Cheers

Bearbonesnorm · Post by **Bearbonesnorm** » Sun Apr 23, 2017 10:59 am

There's going to be a lot of heat going into that frame when it's welded ... you may or equally may not, find that you'll need to ream the seat tube afterwards. Just something to consider.

Personally, I think £60 to weld it up is outrageous. It'll never be 100% right, you'll never be 100% happy, seems like a waste of £60.

simon72 · Post by **simon72** » Sun Apr 23, 2017 11:25 am

Yes I know, such a rip off and a waste. I could just take the other bike - but I can't get over the fact I've invested so much time getting this bike set up just for the wrt - and it was running so smoothly. Perhaps I should cut my losses and right off the frame and consider myself lucky I'm not having to do the WRT on a single speed. I'm almost at that point.

Pirahna · Post by **Pirahna** » Sun Apr 23, 2017 12:29 pm

It's a long while since I did any workshop stuff (I used to be a toolmaker in a previous life), but I think if you weld aluminium it becomes very soft and requires heat treating for the weld to stand any chance of lasting. Given that the crack is is just above the weld for the top tube my opinion is you're setting yourself up for a frame failure on that joint sooner rather than later. Heat treating would require the entire frame to be done. After this you'd want frame alignment checked and then stuff like the head and tubes reamed, bottom bracket re-threaded or faced. The paint would be toast as well

Personally I'd consider the frame a write off and move onto plan B.

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