Lake district bikepacking with Zippy and Wotsits

[benp1]

This is a very quick write up following a very wet weekend in the Lakes.

The original aim was to follow the South Lakes 100 route and potentially add some bits on if we fancied it. We didn’t plan for such horrific weather – it’s grim up north!

Day 1

Met up with Chris (Zippy) on Friday morning and got on the road

Quite sunny, dry, mild and generally nice. Good spring bikepacking weather. But we were down south

Up the A1 and across the Yorkshire Dales straight into the Lakes. Beautiful countryside but the weather.. It’s grim up north. The grim started around the Yorkshire Dales and never left us

We got up to Staveley for around 1.30pm, it was belting it down!

By the time we faffed about, had some lunch, sorted the bikes, and procrastinated we were rolling at 3.30pm

We followed the route but it was slow going, the muddy slog at the start was quite technical in the conditions given all the rocks that were thrown in for good measure. It was very slippery

After about two hours we’d done 8 miles... 8 miles! It was slow

At the bottom of the climb up from Kentmere we stopped for a bite to eat when we realised we were moving quite slowly and might have a problem with getting to the pub for dinner. I noticed my

Revelate Pocket had filled with water, so moved a few things around (like phone/wallet/key) so they weren’t sitting in a pool of wate, plus poured the pool away

We climbed up from Kentmere and got to a river crossing with some stepping stones. The stepping stones were completely submerged and the water was gushing over the top of them. The crossing was up to Chris’ knees within 2 steps and it was in pretty full flow

At this point I’d got off the bike to have a reccy and noticed my frame bag was undone. I had a quick rummage, found my phone and wallet but not my key. Meanwhile Chris had walked up and down a bit to discover there was nowhere safe to get across with the bikes. I had a proper search of the bike and confirmed that the car key was definitely missing. Nuts

So we turned back and looked for the key. Thankfully Chris found it after not too long, what a relief. We both agreed that we shouldn’t try the river in that state so we dropped down off the hill, which was good fun, and then hit the road. We basically went back to where we’d left the car via the road and then took the road onto Windermere. Staveley to Windermere is 3 miles, it felt about 8. Brutal
headwind and rain, it was a hard fought 3 miles. By the time we got into Windermere it made sense to just carry onto Ambleside, this was a good decision. Ambleside was a much easier 5 miles with at least half of that downhill

We’d doubled our mileage following that stint on the road, although the road was pretty wet too!

We had some drinks and 3 courses in the pub, which was very welcome. It was busy in there (and it was also St Patricks Day) and plenty of folk thought we were completely nuts. We carried onto Rydal
Cave after that where we spent the night – thank you to Quimarche for the recommendation

At no point did it stop raining. We were both testing various Paramo outfits, I was glad to have been wearing mine. I actually cycled with a hood up for nearly all of the ride, and was quite glad of that

Knee length seal skinz didn’t work though, water came in through the top, a lot. I would conservatively estimate I had 300ml in each sock, which I poured out when we got to the pub. It wasn’t pleasant pedalling with that in your sock!

This was our route on day 1 - https://www.strava.com/activities/908529584


Day 2

We had a dry night in the cave despite the deluge outside and the constant dripping inside, we were rolling by about 9.30am having had a brew and a bite to eat outside (when it supposed to be dry but was just drizzling).

From there we followed the route over some lovely tracks. A couple of climbs and some very wet sections later we had lunch in Elterwater. Some great views here, if it was clear I would imagine it is magical, Great Langdale is gorgeous

We passed a river crossing where there were some stepping stones for walkers to get across the river (footpath either side). They were all under cover, even the ones near the edge

All through the day we were planning to meet Jase (Wotsits), but he wasn’t sure when he might get up there and therefore where we should meet. We were able to get some signal in Elterwater and agreed to either meet in Hawkshead or the pub in Satterthwaite

We rolled into Hawkshead at 3.30pm and were able to get signal again. We confirmed that we’d meet in the pub in Satterthwaite for dinner

Elterwater to Hawkshead was a nice section, we saw a few bikers and a few more walkers, plus some 4x4s doing some greenlining. Great rocky tracks (although very wet) and just a lovely part of the world.

The next section out of Hawkshead is a bit of a climb but there’s a lovely trail (TNF trail) leading down to Grizedale visitor centre. What made it better was that we found the ONLY weather window the whole weekend that wasn’t raining. The sun even came out (very briefly). We had to derobe part way up the climb as we were overheating

We got down to Grizedale visitor centre to find the cafe closed (and the rain was back!), but we spotted a potential spot to sleep by the picnic benches. The downside was that we’d have to be away pretty early to avoid any visitors or dog walkers

But we now had a rough plan for somewhere to stay, and a dinner date in the pub, so we carried out safe in the knowledge that we knew where we might be staying and it didn’t involve being subject to the horrific weather

More climbing out of the visitor centre, some on the trail centre trails, some on fireroad. Given it was mostly up from Grizedale, and it was raining pretty hard, it was obviously a bit slow. I wasn’t sure if we’d make the pub on time. When we looked at the map earlier we knew that there were some bail out options to shorten this bit and get to the pub quicker, but the point I was thinking about the route was the point we were furthest away and so committed

But then we got to Parkamoor and it was all worth it. From here onwards the route changed and we got to moorland which was ace. You couldn’t see much due to the rain/fog/cloud but you had a sense of the big open spaces that were there

There was also a great looking bothy/cottage but it was locked, would have been a mint place to stay!

Then we got to the proper descent, oh my was it worth it. Apparently known as the three witches or granddad, dad and dentist. This is the best descent I’ve ever experienced!

Everything aligned - I thought we were at the furthest point and had quite a way to go, the light was starting to go quickly, the pub and dinner was beckoning (plus I was hungry), and then bam – epic descent

And just when I thought it was over there was more. Its a mile and a half of fast/rocky/technical descent and boy was it good! Even on a loaded bike.

And it dropped us out a very, very short road section away from the pub

Pub was excellent, 3 courses and drinks in here too. Plus there was a fire so we could dry some kit out

Left the pub after 11pm and rode back to Grizedale (in the rain, again). Jase had a better suggestion that was similar to where we found but more tucked away, and there were toilets too! It was great to have a dry spot to spend the night (there was a slight bit of wind blown rain), it was wet and windy all night.

This was our route on day 2 - https://www.strava.com/activities/908530330


Day 3

Very wet and windy over night!

The caretaker for the place we were bivvying at turned up in the morning, we were up but hadn’t packed up. He didn’t seem to mind, he had a bit of a chat with us and commented on the weather. You
know it’s wet when even the locals are saying it’s wet (as they had the whole weekend in fact)

Once packed up we procrastinated more by having some food and a brew, it was miserable out from under the sheltered bit we were occupying

Jase knows the lakes very well so we used the route for guidance but also his inside knowledge. We went up Breasty Haw climb was which interesting in the wet, but had a brilliant descent off the other side. Another climb later followed by another excellent descent took us down to Lake Windermere.

The ferry was thankfully running so we grabbed that across to Windermere and headed back to Staveley (with a mixture of road and off road)

Lunch in Wilf’s and then headed back, we were on the road by 3.30pm and I got home 6 hours later

The grim stopped somewhere in the Yorkshire Dales, although it was a bit rainy on and off all the way home

We had a section in the Yorkshire Dales where we had to turn back. One of the roads was flooded quite badly, we’d noticed flooded flood plains on the way back already but now we faced one, with a road running through it. We only saw 4x4s getting through it, and a Volvo C30 parked up on the side having broken down after trying it. A couple of motorbikes did get through, good effort. Most turned around. I wasn’t risking that in a borrowed Peugeot 307, known for having low air intakes, so we diverted around.

This was our route on day 3 - https://www.strava.com/activities/908530710




All in an excellent weekend. Without question the wettest weekend I’ve had, I thought my previous record was already reaching unattainable heights and fairly safe in lead spot, but what a place for a wet weekend. I’d like to come back in the dry as while the route is rideable in the wet, it would be so much fun in the dry.

Total distance was 80 miles, a lot less than the 100 miles we’d planned (and we were even thinking of adding stuff onto that)

I found the natural trails to be so much more fun than the trail centre stuff. Trail Centre wasn’t bad, but the natural stuff was so good! Last time I came up my favourite descent was The Fox, I’ve found a new high

Bike was good on the whole, although I had a few gear problems which I need to sort, I could fairly often get into gears 1, 2, 4 and 6, others came and went during the trip. I’m not sure I ever saw 9 or 10! I think I need to make a hole in my Revelate Pocket to let it drain. I don’t mind stuff getting wet, but not helpful if it’s sitting in a pool of water. Other Revelate bags were fine

I’ll sort some pictures out but I didn’t take many. Zip, can you post any of yours up?

[whitestone]

Nice one Ben.

Wet? My brother (runs the family farm a little to the south of where you were) rang up last night, "wet" was just about discernible amongst the profanities

The first bit across the Green Quarter to Longsleddale is probably the bit most susceptible to damp (as we Cumbrians refer to such conditions) - the first time I ventured across there it was sheet ice - the rest of the route is on hard packed tracks and trails. A couple of comedic puddles here and there though

Grandfather, Father, Dentist is an ace descent. The one down the other side of Breasty Haw is good as well though last year on the JennRide there was a diversion down the footpath to the south due to forestry work. The route does just about every good, and legal, BW descent in the South Lakes, the only one missing is Parkamoor down to Nibthwaite (after the locked bothy/house which I think is Parkamoor itself from what you describe), instead of turning left across the moor back into the forest, head straight on. A bit awkward to then work it into a loop.

[benp1]

Cheers Bob, your brother is right. I've not experienced a trip where the rain started and then basically didn't stop, night and day. And often it was real rain, not light mizzle that sometimes lasts for ages

East of Windermere feels a bit more like Wales, West of it is much rockier. We were often riding through what felt like streams, as the rain was taking the path of least resistance, but at least the surface was still very ridable. It did mean some sections were very slippery but in general it was good, if a bit slow

There is an incredible amount of riding round there. As a southerner, I'd assume you'd have to go up and down in a peak bagging type approach. Some of the descents were fantastic, they were actually worth the climb. And the fact they're legal and better than the trails you'd find in a trail centre just makes it even more amazing.

I do wish I was closer to the Lakes, it's an vaguely exciting place.

Since getting home, apart from drying kit, I've actually been looking at finding a place to stay up there in the summer holidays, great place for the kids and the dogs!

[Cheeky Monkey]

I was up in Nether Wasdale over the weekend. Wetter than an otter's pocket!

Took the youngest for a wander down to Wast Water and even the boat house was submerged. Never seen the Lake so high.

Top effort to have ridden through all that weather

[Zippy]

I'll add some commentary later, but for now I've managed to upload some photos!

Strava: https://www.strava.com/activities/907375857
Flickr album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskRr8aJv


P1050374 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

[whitestone]

Ah, now recognise the first of your deep becks - it's the one at the top of The Three Rivers descent back down towards Staveley, don't think I've seen it that high If you'd turned back there and turned left before the gate then you'd have cut a bit of a corner off your trip to Windermere.

The tired looking house with pale blue paintwork is Parkamoor farm.

[benp1]

I've just booked a week in an AirBnB place in Hawkshead this summer with the kids and dogs. I liked it that much! Just hoping the weather is a bit better


Good photos there Zip, and nicely displayed in chronological order too. It doesn't seem that wet in some of those photos

Ah, now recognise the first of your deep becks - it's the one at the top of The Three Rivers descent back down towards Staveley, don't think I've seen it that high If you'd turned back there and turned left before the gate then you'd have cut a bit of a corner off your trip to Windermere.

Now you tell us!

The tired looking house with pale blue paintwork is Parkamoor farm.

It looked great through the windows - board games etc for visitors. We were being very hopeful in trying the door! Would be a bit of a climb to get back to it after the pub though

[postierich]

Great effort guys twas grim out on Sunday ,only managed a 35 miler before bailing come back in May the weather has been booked for the #jennride

[Zippy]

So here’s a few extra words from me, I thought I’d use Ben’s words as a template – see how that goes.

This is a very quick write up following a very wet weekend in the Lakes.

The original aim was to follow the South Lakes 100 route and potentially add some bits on if we fancied it. We didn’t plan for such horrific weather – it’s grim up north!

Day 1

Met up with Chris (Zippy) on Friday morning and got on the road

Quite sunny, dry, mild and generally nice. Good spring bikepacking weather. But we were down south

Where I pulled a McDonalds breakfast out of my engine bay, as it was keeping it warm for Ben, whilst I was eating mine! Car packing was easy, and we knew this was probably going to be the driest it will be until we head back south again.

Up the A1 and across the Yorkshire Dales straight into the Lakes. Beautiful countryside but the weather.. It’s grim up north. The grim started around the Yorkshire Dales and never left us

We got up to Staveley for around 1.30pm, it was belting it down!

By the time we faffed about, had some lunch, sorted the bikes, and procrastinated we were rolling at 3.30pm

It’s grim up north!


P1050373 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

We followed the route but it was slow going, the muddy slog at the start was quite technical in the conditions given all the rocks that were thrown in for good measure. It was very slippery

After about two hours we’d done 8 miles... 8 miles! It was slow

Yeah, it was wet under the wheels, the weather was wet and windy, and the views significantly reduced, however there were proper climbs, and techy bits – I was really enjoying the riding – even if it was slow. A lot to be said about picking a line, but conserving energy to get across efficiently.

P1050383 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr


P1050380 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

At the bottom of the climb up from Kentmere we stopped for a bite to eat when we realised we were moving quite slowly and might have a problem with getting to the pub for dinner. I noticed my Revelate Pocket had filled with water, so moved a few things around (like phone/wallet/key) so they weren’t sitting in a pool of water, plus poured the pool away

We climbed up from Kentmere and got to a river crossing with some stepping stones. The stepping stones were completely submerged and the water was gushing over the top of them. The crossing was up to Chris’ knees within 2 steps and it was in pretty full flow

At this point I’d got off the bike to have a reccy and noticed my frame bag was undone. I had a quick rummage, found my phone and wallet but not my key. Meanwhile Chris had walked up and down a bit to discover there was nowhere safe to get across with the bikes. I had a proper search of the bike and confirmed that the car key was definitely missing. Nuts

Hmm, this river crossing looks a bit tasty, so I shouldered my bike and started stepping in. Woooah, that’s slippy underfoot, oh and it gets deep quickly, and there’s some flow. I see there are some stepping stones that are submerged – oh right and now that’s creating a scour hole. I left the bike by the side and surveyed the river up and downstream, and tentatively walked in. Within 1 or 2 steps, I was up to knee height and not in the strong flow section, it was slippy, difficult to get footing and the moment I moved a leg into the flow, it was a bit of a battle to stay upright. I might have attempted the crossing in walking boots and using a walking pole or something – but this wasn’t going to happen safely with a bike – and hey we’re on holiday, not smashing an ITT!
We needed to turn round anyway, we could do with finding the car key!


P1050393 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

So we turned back and looked for the key. Thankfully Chris found it after not too long, what a relief. We both agreed that we shouldn’t try the river in that state so we dropped down off the hill, which was good fun, and then hit the road. We basically went back to where we’d left the car via the road and then took the road onto Windermere. Staveley to Windermere is 3 miles, it felt about 8. Brutal headwind and rain, it was a hard fought 3 miles. By the time we got into Windermere it made sense to just carry onto Ambleside, this was a good decision. Ambleside was a much easier 5 miles with at least half of that downhill

Wahoo, I spotted the key and found it! That was lucky.

We’d doubled our mileage following that stint on the road, although the road was pretty wet too!

We had some drinks and 3 courses in the pub, which was very welcome. It was busy in there (and it was also St Patricks Day) and plenty of folk thought we were completely nuts. We carried onto Rydal
Cave after that where we spent the night – thank you to Quimarche for the recommendation

Pub was a welcome relief, Ben amusingly emptied his waterproof socks of probably a couple of litres of water before we went into the Pub.


P1050401 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

At no point did it stop raining. We were both testing various Paramo outfits, I was glad to have been wearing mine. I actually cycled with a hood up for nearly all of the ride, and was quite glad of that

Knee length seal skinz didn’t work though, water came in through the top, a lot. I would conservatively estimate I had 300ml in each sock, which I poured out when we got to the pub. It wasn’t pleasant pedalling with that in your sock!

The paramo was doing well – however I was getting a bit cold through the day, but that was sorted in the pub when I worked out how my brand new reversible baselayer work, and switched it to heat retention mode rather than cooling! Turns out, with the correct layering system, the “windproof” actually works pretty well in torrential conditions, you just need to get over getting wet and accept being comfortable – I’m happy with the testing now 
Also yes, but thanks to Quimarche for scoping out the Cave, that was a first for me and kept us out of the weather.


P1050408 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

This was our route on day 1 - https://www.strava.com/activities/908529584

Day 2

We had a dry night in the cave despite the deluge outside and the constant dripping inside, we were rolling by about 9.30am having had a brew and a bite to eat outside (when it supposed to be dry but was just drizzling).

From there we followed the route over some lovely tracks. A couple of climbs and some very wet sections later we had lunch in Elterwater. Some great views here, if it was clear I would imagine it is magical, Great Langdale is gorgeous

Lovely views, still very wet though and no sun, but even then the views are lovely, I bet it’s amazing in the sun.


P1050432 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

We passed a river crossing where there were some stepping stones for walkers to get across the river (footpath either side). They were all under cover, even the ones near the edge

Yes, this was a big way marked path with a proper sign and near popular walking routes – the river was quite a bit bigger than it’s banks!

All through the day we were planning to meet Jase (Wotsits), but he wasn’t sure when he might get up there and therefore where we should meet. We were able to get some signal in Elterwater and agreed to either meet in Hawkshead or the pub in Satterthwaite

We rolled into Hawkshead at 3.30pm and were able to get signal again. We confirmed that we’d meet in the pub in Satterthwaite for dinner

Elterwater to Hawkshead was a nice section, we saw a few bikers and a few more walkers, plus some 4x4s doing some greenlining. Great rocky tracks (although very wet) and just a lovely part of the world.

The next section out of Hawkshead is a bit of a climb but there’s a lovely trail (TNF trail) leading down to Grizedale visitor centre. What made it better was that we found the ONLY weather window the whole weekend that wasn’t raining. The sun even came out (very briefly). We had to derobe part way up the climb as we were overheating

Well I just swapped the orientation of my baselayer into cooling mode!


P1050444 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

We got down to Grizedale visitor centre to find the cafe closed (and the rain was back!), but we spotted a potential spot to sleep by the picnic benches. The downside was that we’d have to be away pretty early to avoid any visitors or dog walkers

But we now had a rough plan for somewhere to stay, and a dinner date in the pub, so we carried out safe in the knowledge that we knew where we might be staying and it didn’t involve being subject to the horrific weather

You always feel better when the weather is crap and you’ve got somewhere sorted in your head to stay to keep yourself vaguely dry when getting some kip!

More climbing out of the visitor centre, some on the trail centre trails, some on fireroad. Given it was mostly up from Grizedale, and it was raining pretty hard, it was obviously a bit slow. I wasn’t sure if we’d make the pub on time. When we looked at the map earlier we knew that there were some bail out options to shorten this bit and get to the pub quicker, but the point I was thinking about the route was the point we were furthest away and so committed

(heee hee, evil plans!)

But then we got to Parkamoor and it was all worth it. From here onwards the route changed and we got to moorland which was ace. You couldn’t see much due to the rain/fog/cloud but you had a sense of the big open spaces that were there

There was also a great looking bothy/cottage but it was locked, would have been a mint place to stay!

Then we got to the proper descent, oh my was it worth it. Apparently known as the three witches or granddad, dad and dentist. This is the best descent I’ve ever experienced!

Yeah it was good.


P1050457 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

Everything aligned - I thought we were at the furthest point and had quite a way to go, the light was starting to go quickly, the pub and dinner was beckoning (plus I was hungry), and then bam – epic descent

And just when I thought it was over there was more. Its a mile and a half of fast/rocky/technical descent and boy was it good! Even on a loaded bike.

And it dropped us out a very, very short road section away from the pub

Pub was excellent, 3 courses and drinks in here too. Plus there was a fire so we could dry some kit out

Enter meeting Wotsits and lots of pub time. Even a fire to dry some kit out on.


P1050464 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

Left the pub after 11pm and rode back to Grizedale (in the rain, again). Jase had a better suggestion that was similar to where we found but more tucked away, and there were toilets too! It was great to have a dry spot to spend the night (there was a slight bit of wind blown rain), it was wet and windy all night.

This was our route on day 2 - https://www.strava.com/activities/908530330


Day 3

Very wet and windy over night!

The caretaker for the place we were bivvying at turned up in the morning, we were up but hadn’t packed up. He didn’t seem to mind, he had a bit of a chat with us and commented on the weather. You know it’s wet when even the locals are saying it’s wet (as they had the whole weekend in fact)

Once packed up we procrastinated more by having some food and a brew, it was miserable out from under the sheltered bit we were occupying

P1050473 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

Jase knows the lakes very well so we used the route for guidance but also his inside knowledge. We went up Breasty Haw climb was which interesting in the wet, but had a brilliant descent off the other side. Another climb later followed by another excellent descent took us down to Lake Windermere.

The ferry was thankfully running so we grabbed that across to Windermere and headed back to Staveley (with a mixture of road and off road)

P1050478 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

Lunch in Wilf’s and then headed back, we were on the road by 3.30pm and I got home 6 hours later

The grim stopped somewhere in the Yorkshire Dales, although it was a bit rainy on and off all the way home

We had a section in the Yorkshire Dales where we had to turn back. One of the roads was flooded quite badly, we’d noticed flooded flood plains on the way back already but now we faced one, with a road running through it. We only saw 4x4s getting through it, and a Volvo C30 parked up on the side having broken down after trying it. A couple of motorbikes did get through, good effort. Most turned around. I wasn’t risking that in a borrowed Peugeot 307, known for having low air intakes, so we diverted around.

P1050494 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

This was our route on day 3 - https://www.strava.com/activities/908530710



All in an excellent weekend. Without question the wettest weekend I’ve had, I thought my previous record was already reaching unattainable heights and fairly safe in lead spot, but what a place for a wet weekend. I’d like to come back in the dry as while the route is rideable in the wet, it would be so much fun in the dry.

Total distance was 80 miles, a lot less than the 100 miles we’d planned (and we were even thinking of adding stuff onto that)

I found the natural trails to be so much more fun than the trail centre stuff. Trail Centre wasn’t bad, but the natural stuff was so good! Last time I came up my favourite descent was The Fox, I’ve found a new high

Bike was good on the whole, although I had a few gear problems which I need to sort, I could fairly often get into gears 1, 2, 4 and 6, others came and went during the trip. I’m not sure I ever saw 9 or 10! I think I need to make a hole in my Revelate Pocket to let it drain. I don’t mind stuff getting wet, but not helpful if it’s sitting in a pool of water. Other Revelate bags were fine

I’ll sort some pictures out but I didn’t take many. Zip, can you post any of yours up?

Photo album here for a few more pics: https://flic.kr/s/aHskRr8aJv

Enough said. Good trip, wet, windy, tested some kit setups and it worked well. I could do with stopping my brakes squeeling though! I’m now hoping to do a few trips in the sunshine…!

[benp1]

Good photos and content there Zip, twas a good trip

My next phone will be waterproof, I daren't take my phone out in those conditions. You're waterproof camera was a cracking idea

Having checked my photos they're only of the cave or the flooded road as they were the only times it wasn't raining!