The Canal to Wigan Pier

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whitestone
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The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by whitestone »

Cath was after doing a long ride in preparation for the French Divide in a couple of weeks' time, ideally a couple of 100 mile plus days. She also wanted to test packing and carrying her intended kit for that ride. For me it would be a good test of whether my fix to my carbon forks worked - if it didn't then I'd time to buy some new forks! Now around here (the Dales) that sort of distance also means a lot of up and down and a lot of hard work. A bit of lateral (horizontal?) thinking and I remembered that someone had put together a ride using the Leeds-Liverpool canal along with the Trans-Pennine Trail.

I dug up the post they'd written of their ride and set about creating a route. We don't live too far from the Leeds-Liverpool canal, I use part of it for my commute, but rather than do it in its entirety I worked out a "short cut" to avoid the out and back to Liverpool. The previous rider had ridden his loop clockwise but we figured we'd ride anti-clockwise. The overview was: pick up the LL canal at Salterforth and follow it westwards as far as Wigan. From here the Bridgewater canal would take us to pick up the TPT in the Cheadle area. We'd then follow that east until after Penistone when NCN 67 would hook us back northwards to Leeds. A short city centre transfer and we'd be back on the LL canal and head home. Quite an urban ride: Wigan, Leigh, Manchester, Barnsley, Wakefield, Leeds, if you aren't careful you begin to sound like Eddie Waring (Younger readers may need to look him up).

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For day one most of the climbing was getting to the canal - there was a ruddy great hill in the way! After that it was a case of follow your nose, literally in some parts - the canal isn't exactly Ring of Bright Water. To say the route wanders a bit is an understatement, it's positively serpentine. Mostly though the going is good if at times depressing. The canals are the motorway network of yesteryear and as you pass through the towns you are reminded of industries past, decay is everywhere.

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We pass a group fishing. They've quite a catch: a couple of bikes, a shopping trolley, some hub caps. I'm surprised they survived this long in the water.

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A large series of fancy cut metal sheets announces the mid-point of the canal but I don't realise until I twig that the milestones indicate it's further to Leeds than Liverpool. Shortly after there's a cafe by the canal side so we stop for a snack.

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The next landmark is Wigan and the longest flight of locks on the canal, they take their time though as there's a bit of a gap between each. At the foot of the flight it's time to leave the Leeds-Liverpool and head along the Bridgewater Canal, it's nowhere near Bridgewater but is named after a duke who commissioned it. This will get us into Manchester.

In Stretford we intersect with the TPT but overshoot it. No matter there's a BW marked that leads back to the correct route. It's a bit overgrown and by the end I look as if I've had a session with Joyce McKinney (middle aged readers may wish to prevent younger readers from looking her up!). Hike-a-bike in the urban sprawl of Manchester, who'd have thought it! Still the blackberries were ripe.

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We wander along by the side of the River Mersey with little idea of where we really are until the Kingsway pyramid appears to one side. A bit of dodging around through Stockport gets us back into a more rural setting. We are now looking for a: something to eat and b: somewhere to buy grub for our bivy. The first comes in the form of a Chinese chippy in Haughton Green. The food was pretty awful to be honest, nice chap but needs to learn how to cook fish and chips. It's dark and we are near Hadfield by the time we pass an open shop.

We bivy on the old railway leading to the Woodhead tunnels. Getting the pegs into the ground is hard work and takes a bit of care. It's still very warm. Little breeze and fortunately no midges.

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We wake early (about 0500) and with a quick sandwich we pack up. The weeks of fine weather mean that everything is bone dry, no condensation on either tarp or bivy bag. The first few km are easy along the old railway, just the various stiles to deter motor bikes to negotiate. By the time we get to the tunnels it's started to drizzle.

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The climb up from the tunnels is by far the hardest part of the whole ride, in climbing terms it's like an E3 pitch in the middle of a VDiff. Still it's soon over and done with and we whizz across the top and down the other side to join the old rail line again. An hour or so along this and we head east across wheat fields to begin to head north.

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We are on NCN 67 here and it passes from sink estates to arable fields to disused collieries in the space of a few moments. We start to follow an old canal, the water is vivid green, you'd have to be more than desperate to go anywhere near it.

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We are getting hungry and there's a pub/eatery on the route but it wasn't exactly brilliant, the bright menu with photos of burgers for the hard of hearing should have been a clue.

We are now on the approach to Leeds until we get to a set of stairs. On a cycle route!

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Finally we drop out of the semi-rural, semi industrial landscape into the centre of Leeds. I know roughly how to get between the end of NCN 67 and the start of the Leeds-Liverpool but it's a bit of on-the-fly guesswork. A pint in the bar beneath the railway station and we are ready for the final leg.

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It's slow going in the heat and it's early evening when we hit the foot of the climb up to home. Time for a curry :grin:

A total of 317km with a rather measly 2100 metres of climbing. Although we'd "missed out" the section of the Leeds-Liverpool around Skipton we went further south-east from Penistone than the route I'd based it on so the distances are about the same.

For us it was something different, we normally shy away from urbania, but a lot of the route turned out to be very rural and often when it actually wasn't there was enough vegetation surrounding the canal or cycle route that it felt so. Often you are close to motorways or arterial roads and you realise just how noisy modern life is, there's a "corridor" of about a mile or two either side of the motorway where the drone of traffic is very intrusive.

Quite a stiff two day ride but over three it would be quite steady. There's virtually no technical riding so would be suitable for either someone wanting a less exacting ride or someone who was just getting into off-road touring.
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Mike
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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by Mike »

Nice bob, I saw ya route on strava, it looked good. I personally love using canals they go everywhere and are generally really quiet and keep me off the tarmac!. I'm currently using them on my ride upto the peak before doing a big loop and back again :)
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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by middleagedmadness »

Nice read Bob ,living not far from Mike canals make up the bulk of my riding too ,gets me to most places without too much tarmac involved ,do need to start wearing my glasses though thought you said a bit of dogging around Stockport , :oops:
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Lawmanmx
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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by Lawmanmx »

you should have said you was coming to Wigan Bob/Cath, i would have put the kettle on for ya :-bd
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Dave Barter
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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by Dave Barter »

As an avid reader of Orwell I hope the title was meant as a proper pun
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whitestone
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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by whitestone »

Dave Barter wrote:As an avid reader of Orwell I hope the title was meant as a proper pun
It was entirely intentional Dave. And to be honest there are a lot of parallels with Orwell's time and the present day. Sadly, I could equally have called it "Silent Canal".
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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by Bearbonesnorm »

I've just worried that there's only one slice of toast each ... it bothers me.
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RIP
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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by RIP »

Good point re the toast allocation. One's not enough. It's important to monitor these things or standards will just slip. Then again, what's provided is nicely browned to be fair. Maybe a bit more round the edges but quite a reasonable effort. Not sure about those trendy square plates upon which the slices are reclining though. Compliments on the restrained deployment of the HP sauce by the way, just too little or just too much can destroy the whole balance of the offering thereby spoiling the rest of your day.

On the same subject it never ceases to amaze me how such a simple electrical appliance as a toaster (or kettle for that matter) can not last almost forever, and after all this time not be designed perfectly. Our current water boiling device has a rubbish spout that spills scalding water over you if not poured at exactly the right angle and flow rate. Our toaster leaves one corner of the bread unbrowned. Come on guys, it's not proverbial rocket science.

I'd be more concerned about the lack of grilled tomatoes.
Last edited by RIP on Thu Jul 26, 2018 5:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PaulB2
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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by PaulB2 »

RIP wrote: On the same subject it never ceases to amaze me how such a simple electrical appliance as a toaster (or kettle for that matter) can not last almost forever, and after all this time not be designed perfectly. Our current water boiling device has a rubbish spout that spills scalding water over you if not poured at exactly the right angle and flow rate. Our toaster leaves one corner of the bread unbrowned. Come on guys, it's not proverbial rocket science.
Anyone would think that they'd been designed as cheap and disposable so that you had to buy a new one in a year or two...
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whitestone
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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by whitestone »

PaulB2 wrote:
RIP wrote: On the same subject it never ceases to amaze me how such a simple electrical appliance as a toaster (or kettle for that matter) can not last almost forever, and after all this time not be designed perfectly. Our current water boiling device has a rubbish spout that spills scalding water over you if not poured at exactly the right angle and flow rate. Our toaster leaves one corner of the bread unbrowned. Come on guys, it's not proverbial rocket science.
Anyone would think that they'd been designed as cheap and disposable so that you had to buy a new one in a year or two...
An image I didn't post ...

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Dave Barter
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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by Dave Barter »

Bearbonesnorm wrote:I've just worried that there's only one slice of toast each ... it bothers me.
Now you’ve made me look again and the toast is framed which should never happen unless it bears an image of the Virgin Mary
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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by RIP »

What an upsetting photo that was. After years of blamelessly faithful service simply trying to do its best, an item of consumer white-goods is hoofed into a canal in a most cavalier and careless fashion...

Toast is an integral and important part of BP so I'm shamelessly continuing this. My favourite toaster is in fact not representative of the breed - it's an 18-year-old Morphy Richards and still going strong at a place I volunteer sometimes. There's unmentionable stains and marks all over it and a big dent in the side and rust is taking hold. But its browning capabilities are superlative - totally 'even' right up to the edges. The best feature though is its relaxed attitude, sort of the equivalent of a meths stove's slow burn as it were. When the toast is ready to eject, it doesn't pop up in a stressy or showy sort of way. The best word I can come up with is the toast is presented. It's raised soundlessly and slowly, nay majestically, from within, like an old cinema wurlitzer organ. It's so treasured that it has to be kept in a locked cupboard when not in use. I twice tried to spirit it away but was apprehended both times and gently admonished with tolerant, understanding, sighs.
Last edited by RIP on Thu Jul 26, 2018 6:19 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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whitestone
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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by whitestone »

Dave Barter wrote:
Bearbonesnorm wrote:I've just worried that there's only one slice of toast each ... it bothers me.
Now you’ve made me look again and the toast is framed which should never happen unless it bears an image of the Virgin Mary
I think mine (the near piece) looks like a 1980s space invader :???: Not sure if it's called Mary or is even a virgin :lol:

Reg - I agree. The image seems representative of so many wrongs, too many wrongs, in today's attitudes. It was slowly bobbing along in the flow of the canal, both heading towards an uncertain future.
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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by benp1 »

Looks a good couple of days out. Why did you pitch the tarp? Any concerns about weather?

Re brekkie, I was more concerned by the lack of pork products!
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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by Charliecres »

Our family toaster was one of these right up till I left for uni. Made the best toast but the risk of burnt fingers, electrocution and actual fire was ever present. Toast as an extreme sport.

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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by whitestone »

benp1 wrote:Looks a good couple of days out. Why did you pitch the tarp? Any concerns about weather?

Re brekkie, I was more concerned by the lack of pork products!
It felt like it could rain, in fact we had one or two spots as we went through Stockport. About an hour after leaving in the morning it was drizzling. The bivy itself was bone dry, no condensation either on the tarp or under the bivy bag. I think that's only the second time I can remember that happening (or not happening) after camping in the UK.
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Re: The Canal to Wigan Pier

Post by ton »

that green canal is on one of my regular rides. at the end of that section near the big lake, there is a stonking cafe, used by all the cycling clubs.
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