Glen Kinglass and Loch Etive Revisited.

[Ray Young]

It's been five years to the month that I last did this route with Gari and I always said I'd go back and do it again only in reverse as the general consensus on here deemed it would be nicer doing it clockwise. 84 miles according to bikehike. I left Edinburgh at 12 and arrived at Victoria Bridge carpark near The Bridge Of Orchy at 2. Watching the temp on the way up it never dropped below 29° and when I got out of the air conditioned car I couldn't believe how hot it was. The plan was to hit Oban for a fish supper in the evening (about half way) then maybe press on another 15 miles to Cadderlie bothy if I felt up to it.
As I headed up to Loch Dochard I had decided to take the marked footpath along the river rather than the gravel road Gari and I used the last time. I'm glad we'd had a long dry spell as evidence on the ground suggested that it is usually very, very boggy along here. At the top I stopped to take a photo only to discover my phone didn't want to play and flatly refused to commit to memory anything I pointed it at. I tried a few more times over the next couple of hours but no joy. I didn't hang around at the top as although no midges were in evidence the cleggs (biting flies) certainly were and they seemed to to take a liking to my bum so I gave it a spray of insect repellent then continued onto the descent into Glen Kinglass.
About three miles of downhill to Glenkinglass Lodge of mostly technical rock. Not too technical mind and a full susser would just fly down it. I missed the new bridge a 1/3 of the way down but as the fords were easily crossed it didn't bother me. The path to the bridge on the left side of the burn is not easily seen. After the lodge it's a gentle downhill on good gravel to Loch Etive which continues to Taynuilt but tends to go up and down a bit. On this bit I got passed by a guy on an e bike towing his mate up the climbs whom I'd passed ten minutes earlier. I got to Taynuilt just before six so nearly four hours to get here.
From here it was a gentle road climb along NCN78 until the last 2 miles when you suddenly descend to Oban. Half way along here I started to lose air from previous tyre repair (tyre wall sewn and a boot glued to the inside) so I put a leech in and carried on. Another mile on and the tyres deflating again. I put in another leech which helps but by the time I get to Oban I need to pump up the tyre again. I'd promised myself a fish supper (that's fish and chips to everyone who's not Scottish) but Oban being very touristy wanted £9 for the privilege so I went for fishcakes instead. I was knackered after 8 hours riding in 30° heat so there was no way I was riding the extra to the bothy. I stocked up on some food for breakfast and two tins of Budweiser for the evening then headed a couple of miles up the coast to find a nice bivi spot overlooking the sea to the Isle of Mull. There were a few midges but nothing serious as I watched the sunset and drank my beer. Into my bag with midge net zipped up at 11 and slept through to 7.30.
Today was going to be another scorcher. First thing I did was put a tube into the leaky tyre then had breakfast and rode to Connel where I stocked up on sandwiches for the day.
From Connel along the north shore of Loch Etive it's approximately 1/3 road, 1/3 gravel and 1/3 single-track in that order. The single-track was hard going, very overgrown in places and frequent short steep climbs on loose gravel meant a lot of pushing plus the sun was directly overhead. I was drinking lots and before leaving the day before had fashioned a drape out of white cotton to cover my head and hang down the back of my helmet to keep the sun off my neck. This was being dunked regularly into streams in order to keep cool. It was pure bliss every time I put the newly soaked drape back on my head. Without this I think I may well have overheated and I know from experience that heatstroke is not a pleasant thing to suffer. I'd also packed factor 50 sun screen which worked admirably.
Once the Loch ends it's a 300 metre climb over 12 miles of tarmac to pick up the West Highland Way. The King's House Hotel was shut as it looked as though it was being totally re built but some public loos had drinking water available. On coming out of the loo I spotted a male deer with full antlers standing not ten feet away. I can only assume that he'd been hand reared because he stood as though without a care in the world. I pointed him out to some Chinese walkers as they passed who became apoplectic with delight and took dozens of photos.
One more climb to do off-road which I pushed up as the heat of the day had finally got to me before the final few miles back to the car.
Doing the route clockwise is definitely better but I did find the heat detracted from the experience, that's not to say I didn't enjoy it.
Today I noticed a twinge in my left Achilles tendon and hope it's not going to be a problem on next week's Borders 220.
I also tested out my lightweight set up for next week which consists of cut down closed cell foam mat, sleeping bag, bivi bag, inflatable pillow (a must due to neck problems), waterproof, tools, pump, inner tube, lights and battery, headtorch, 2x500 ml water bottles, small first aid kit, insect repellent and sun cream plus sandwiches, apples and muesli bars. No cooker, tarp, comfy sleeping mat etc. I'm not taking anything that is not strictly necessary.

Link to previous write up with pictures http://bearbonesbikepacking.co.uk/phpBB ... n+kinglass