Scottish west coast island hopping advice please

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Pezza
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Scottish west coast island hopping advice please

Post by Pezza »

I want to do a west coast island hopping bikepacking trip, wild camping, bothying and hostels.I have 3 weeks to a month off in spring/early summer. I want to explore, rather than race.

I plan to start at Ardrossan to Arran, Islay, then up to Oban.

From Oban to Mull and maybe the inner Hebrides, before heading to the outer Hebrides, starting at Bara, returning from Tarbert on Harris to Uig, if I'm going to take in Raasay, Canna, Rum and Eigg. I've done Barra to the Butt before, so not bothered about that.

I'm taking a plus bike, hoping to do things like ride into the bothy on Mull, the Lookout bothy if I do Skye.

I'd be grateful for advice please. Is it worth/feasible to include detours to do the following:

include Jura, Tyree and Coll in the first part of the trip?

include Raasay, Canna, Rum and Eigg in the second part? If they aren't worth doing, I could explore Uig on south Lewis instead and come back by Ullapool, missing out Skye.

I'm meeting friends in Kenmore to ride to Applecross at the end, so could come up from Kyle of Lochalsh or down from Ullapool.

I'm taking a plus bike, so any recommendations for off road routes across islands or into great wild camps would be great, gpx would be even better.
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whitestone
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Re: Scottish west coast island hopping advice please

Post by whitestone »

I've been to most of the islands over the years. I'm assuming you've worked ferries out from the CalMac website.

Coll is very small - even going slowly you'd ride every road and track in an afternoon!
Tyree is bigger, plenty of beaches to explore, mostly road to get around as it's generally farmland away from the coastline.

Not been to any of the second part islands you mention so can't help with that.

Having done the Tarbert to Uig ferry and ridden across Skye, I wouldn't recommend it. There's basically the one main road and it's busy with fast traffic. Keep going to Stornoway and get the ferry to Ullapool then follow the old Highland Trail route to Dundonnell and through Fisherfield to Poolewe. Either the Tollie path and then roads to Kinlochewe and Torridon or there's a path around the coast from Redpoint to Diabaig (not done this so it might not be doable on a bike), maybe Scotroutes or htrider might be able to help with that. There's some shots on geograph.org.uk http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1312635 - from those I think Phil (htrider) would describe it as "nadgery" :lol:
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fatbikephil
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Re: Scottish west coast island hopping advice please

Post by fatbikephil »

Sounds like a good way to spend 3 weeks to a month, you'll have a ball and a plus will be ideal.
From the bottom, Arran doesn't have much to offer (people have biked up goatfell, its not worth it) so just pick a road and enjoy the scenery. From Claonaig on the mull of Kintyre to Oban there is a good route which is a mix of the Kintyre way and NCN 78 plus a few other tracks which are fairly obvious on the OS map (keep west and avoid the main road). Islay is a fab place. I've never been there on a bike (yet) but the beaches are amazing. Nowt much trail wise unless your on a fat bike but it is worth a visit and there is plenty to drink to boot. Jura is also another place I've not been too but the track up to the north end is apparently well worth doing as is the trail to George Orwell's old gaff at Glen Batrick

Mull has lots of nice double track but I'd be a bit wary of single track - I've not tried any and not sure if any of it goes without a lot of pain and suffering.... Depending on where you depart Mull there is a route from Kilchoan to Acharacle with a fair bit of off road or if you go to Lochaline from Fishnish there is a good route north with some nice off road and marginal road up the firth of Lorne. My West highland 500 route (see thread elsewhere) covers a fair bit of this and Scot Routes has done a post detailing his trip up here.

Skye is a bit hit and miss. There are some good trails (see the thread elsewhere on this) but the main road is a bit crap. Good views though.

Western Isles are amazing in good weather and hell in bad (no shelter, no nowt :mrgreen: ) If you get to Barra be sure to ride on the airstrip :wink: . Eriskay is nice and people will be happy for you to camp anywhere, From the bottom of South Uist at Smerclate to Stilligarry you can follow the Machair track which is easy sandy going and gives access to some amazing beaches. For digs check out http://www.gatliff.org.uk/

On South Harris follow the golden road up the east coast. Did this on the kramp and its amazing. From Tarbet do the old postie route to rhenigidale hostel (Gatliff trust again) - its bloody brilliant. The road from Rhenigidale to the main road is somewhat hilly. There are a few routes on North Harris / South Lewis which are old access routes to long abandoned villages. Not done them but know people who have and they make for good out and back riding.

From Ullapool to Applecross as Bob says best bet is to follow the Highland Trail route. If you can't be arsed with the two massive climbs (coffin road and bump from dundonald to Shenvall) you can miss these out and get into the back of Strath Sealga via Loch a Bhraoin (good bothy at the top of the loch apparently). From Kinlochewe pick any route through Torridon as they are all good.

If you get to Gairloch and its incredibly dry then give the coast path from red point to Diabeg a shot. If its wet avoid at all costs. As Bob says its nadge core but the views and isolation are stunning. the old YH is now a 5 star bothy. A word of caution - if you decide to take the road to and from Gairloch this is now NC500 territory and what used to be an empty A road is now campervan and loonies in porsches central. Avoid. Likewise the Applecross road - only ride evening or early morning. The trail from Applecross village to Kenmore is a belter

Mind and post a trip report!
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Chrisps
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Re: Scottish west coast island hopping advice please

Post by Chrisps »

I did something similar last year. I would be tempted to skip Islay to be honest. I couldn't find much interesting biking... The stuff I did find was on the far west coast, which had some spectacular beaches and felt nice and remote. But the roads to get there were basically a slog into the prevailing wind. I personally don't think it's worth it.

Didn't have much time on Jura, but even the road was super scenic. Would like to go back. There looked to be some interesting double track heading to the mountains just before the road from the ferry gets to the main town.

Going from Arran to Kintyre (via Lochranza ferry), take the Kintyre Way that requires you to turn left down the road from the ferry port (ie heading south down the peninsula for a couple of km). It's really nice across the middle, even in driving rain and mist :).

Colonsay is lovely... Just check with the captain to make absolutely sure the ferry will be able to dock on the return journey (ie sea forecast), otherwise you could get stuck!

Arran has good singletrack in the middle of the island judging by my friend's photos. We never did it though (didn't realise it was there)
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