Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

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Borderer
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Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

Post by Borderer »

The weather was glorious last weekend, so in spite of my misgivings about it being midge season, we headed off on a wee trip south to visit Spithope bothy, Byrness and Kielder. I drove to our old home town of Morebattle and left the car there. When I parked I discovered that I had forgotten my camera, so these photos were unfortunately taken on my phone, which has a scratched lens, making the images all blurry. I hope you can persevere with them anyway.

This is looking back towards the sheep farm where we used to live.

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We headed off on the bikes up the Hownam valley, but in the roasting hot afternoon we couldn't resist a wee swim in our favourite old swimming spot.

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Catching tadpoles in the river.

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Fording with style.

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We found another spring, but the water was too far down to reach.

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Kelso 13. Mile marker up the Hownam valley.

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The Hownam valley is a beautiful place to go road cycling.

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I love ignoring signs like these.

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A roadside drinking trough, carved from a solid piece of stone.

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I forgot the stove, so we had to improvise to cook our noodles and veggie sausages. Tea time en-route.

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The road ended and we began the long slog through rough terrain up to the border. This was very hard going.

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The midges were bastards.

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Roamin in the gloamin (see Joe to the far right of this photo). This was where I started to get worried - we were struggling with very tough terrain and losing the light fast. Thankfully we reached the border and the fire road just at last light and found the bothy soon after with help from the moon. To get from the border to the bothy we took the fire road and not the bridleway which was very overgrown. This meant negotiating the steps down to the burn to get to the bothy, but it wasn't too difficult.

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Spithope bothy next morning. It's a tiny little hut adjacent to a sheep pen. It was probably where shepherds would rest overnight on their way to market with the sheep.

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It is a small bothy, with sleeping platforms for 4. There were two men at the bothy already when we arrived so it was a bit of a squeeze until they left early the next morning.

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The French mime artiste returns to write the bothy book once more.

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Bridge on the bridge

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Carrying the bikes up the steps to the forest road. After this we headed down to Byrness in anticipation of a large lunch at the pub/hotel there, only to find that they no longer serve food. Ever.

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After the Byrness disappointment we scoffed some biscuits, then pushed on along the Forest Drive gravel road to Kielder, passing this viewpoint on the way. It was as hot as France and hard going because of it. The start of our ride was at the 100m contour, the border was at 433m, after which we went down a couple of hundred into Byrness then up again to this viewpoint.

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Reading interesting things about moths at the viewpoint. He then mansplained about moths for several miles afterwards.

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Heading south and west on the famous gravel roads towards Kielder.

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After a welcome feast at the Anglers Arms in Kielder we headed west along the old railway line in the evening light. This is the part of the line that links Kielder to Riccarton junction. I wanted to try this route ever since our last cross-border trip, to see if it was easier than the route over Bloody Bush we took that time. It was, for the most part.

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We crossed into Scotland and ignored the instruction to turn around and go back to England again. Not likely!

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The old railway track was very overgrown and a bit of a challenge at times, but it was flat at least, which was welcome after the endless up and downs of Forest Drive.

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Roamin in the gloamin once again.

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An enthusiast seems to have bought the old station house at Saughtree. It has a few metres of track and some old carriages and engines.

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This looks fairly benign, but it was what Joe accurately described as 'the worst 20 minutes of any cycle trip ever'. This cutting was full of stagnant water and liquified cow sh1t. We had to tiptoe along the edge of this, dragging our bikes through the muck as we went. This disturbed huge clouds of midges that we couldn't get away from and we were eaten alive. It was grim as there was no quick way out.

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We made it to Riccarton junction at last light and bedded down in a thankfully-tidy Will's bothy for the night. I was stunned to find that the cigars we found there on our last visit were still there untouched. In the morning we made it back to Hawick in 2.45 hours - quicker than the last time we stayed there in spite of the long grass now found along the old railway track. In total the trip was 94km or 58.5 miles. Thanks for reading this to the end.
AlasdairMc
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Re: Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

Post by AlasdairMc »

That's a really nice trip report. I've had my eye on a trip to Will's but never considered Spithope before (mainly through not hearing about it).
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Borderer
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Re: Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

Post by Borderer »

Thanks Alisdair. I didn't photograph Will's this time as I took quite a few on our last visit. You can find that write-up here if you are interested.
http://bearbonesbikepacking.co.uk/phpBB ... 10&t=10006

Wills is not my favourite bothy tbh as it is obviously poorly treated. The cistern has been ripped off the wall so the flushing toilet is no more - there is a lot of toilet paper in the woods around and about. The MBA bothies are so much better maintained - they gave up on Will's some time ago I believe and then the 'Friends' group did the same.

You can find grid refs for all the MBA bothies on their website. The maps on there are deliberately misleading though, which is frustrating. Spithope is just a couple of miles up the fire road from Byrness, so it would be an easy one to visit from that direction (we went the hard way!)
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Ray Young
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Re: Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

Post by Ray Young »

Nice write up. The bridleway past Spithope bothy is awfull as you saw for yourself. Top half overgrown and bottom half is a no man's land after tree felling some time ago. I know it's illegal to obstruct rights of way but does this not extend to putting right the damage/obstruction caused by tree felling after they have finished? Took me 45 minutes to do half a mile the first and only the I took this bridleway a few years ago. The Border County Ride where you leave the forested area to access the Cheviot ridge is similarly affected but not so badly as people have sort of re worn a path through the tangled mess of tree stumps.
I hadn't realized the railway line you took would be so overgrown either, the times I've used it must have been at a different time of year.
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Re: Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

Post by Borderer »

Thanks Ray. Good to hear that I made the right call re the bridleway. If anyone else arrives at Spithope after dark from the fire road and can't find the path then look for the massive bush in the layby on the opposite bank of the glen to the bothy. Have you taken the Hownam route to Spithope at all? We went a bit wrong after Fairloans and it led us up Watch Shank instead of Hard Tae, which in spite of its name, would have been a lot easier (and shorter) I think.

Yeah the vegetation has gone ballistic here in the past month - Wills was almost unrecognisable with waist-high grass all around. Mostly it is ok, it is just the ungrazed parts that are a bit tricky, but in sheep country there are not that many of those about after all.

I hope you get some breeze to drive the midges away for the Borders 350. When we went outside to brush our teeth at Wills we were attacked by a huge cloud of them. We were frantically brushing away while watching our skin turn black. I don't think we will do any more Scottish trips this summer unless a strong breeze is forecast.
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fatbikephil
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Re: Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

Post by fatbikephil »

Great timing as we'll be heading that way on the B350 next weekend. I'm feeling optomistic so Spithope will be a tea hut rather than a sleeping venue for me....
I was wondering what the midge situ was going to be. Hey ho.....
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Borderer
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Re: Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

Post by Borderer »

Hopefully the midges won't be too bad by then. We had Smidge on but it didn't do much. Home Bargains in Hawick sell Smidge in a bikepacking-friendly credit card size thingy now btw.

Spithope has teabags, coffee and milk powder in the cupboard, but not much else. It is a shame the Forest View Walkers Inn at Byrness doesn't do food anymore. They suggested we try the campsite along the way but they didn't have anything there either. I can recommend the Anglers Arms when you exit Forest Drive though. It is pretty much opposite Kielder Castle. They were very helpful and charged my phone up for me while we were there. The puddings are pretty epic. They sell snickers bars and so on to take away too. There is apparently a wee shop in Kielder but it is just open regular hours and the woman at the pub said it didn't sell much anyway.

It is funny to look at the Borders 350 route and think that we have done quite a bit of it now, albeit in our very slow, stop-and-smell-the-flowers sort of way.
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Re: Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

Post by padonbike »

Hey Borderer, your adventures always look absolutely ace!!!!! :-bd :-bd :-bd :-bd
Keep it up!
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Re: Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

Post by Ray Young »

I have not taken the Fairlones route but have done the climb from Nether Hindhope which takes you between Hindhope Law and Whiteside Hill, some pushing, some riding. Also done the descent from behind Yearning Saddle refuge hut which is nice.
The shop at Kielder is small yes but does stock a range of stuff that a bikepacker could want such as fruit, muesli bars, biscuits, cake, pasta 'n' sauce, pies etc. I think it shuts at five though.
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Re: Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

Post by Borderer »

padonbike wrote:Hey Borderer, your adventures always look absolutely ace!!!!! :-bd :-bd :-bd :-bd
Keep it up!
:grin: Thank you. Not sure if we will do any more in Scotland this summer, but we will be heading over to the continent next month for an extended trip.
Ray Young wrote:I have not taken the Fairlones route but have done the climb from Nether Hindhope which takes you between Hindhope Law and Whiteside Hill, some pushing, some riding. Also done the descent from behind Yearning Saddle refuge hut which is nice.
The shop at Kielder is small yes but does stock a range of stuff that a bikepacker could want such as fruit, muesli bars, biscuits, cake, pasta 'n' sauce, pies etc. I think it shuts at five though.
good to know. We didn't arrive in Kielder til 6 or so as we left the bothy quite late.
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Re: Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

Post by Bearbonesnorm »

They sell snickers
I had to read that three times before finally realising it said snickers ... and not knickers. :roll:
May the bridges you burn light your way
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Re: Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

Post by Borderer »

:lol: It's Burleywag you want if its knickers you are after :lol:
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Re: Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

Post by Bearbonesnorm »

It's Burleywag you want if its knickers you are after
It was probably 'that' photograph that set my brain off down that track. :wink:
May the bridges you burn light your way
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Re: Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

Post by Borderer »

Uh huh
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Re: Another cross-border raid to Spithope bothy.

Post by Blair512 »

Enjoyed that, I'm missing some adventure in my life right now. Got a house to sell asap so my life will be consumed by decorating until it's gone. Promised myself a new bike if I make any profit though! :-bd
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